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Audio, Video, and Security - Tech For the electro-techies and the bass heads.

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Old 07-16-2008, 09:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation Photos: 2000 Camry door speaker install

Hi friends:

Here are a few photos of an install I'm working on of some Boston RC61
components into a 2000 Camry CE.

I'm posting this in case someone else is thinking of working on a Gen 4
or Gen 4.5 Camry, it'll give them an idea what they are getting themselves into.

The Boston RC61 drivers are old - From 1994-1999 , so I guess that would qualify
this install as "old school". To me, nothing beats Boston for the price.

Here's a shot of the rear of the Boston RC61LF midbass



I traced the old OEM (original) full-range speakers that were in the doors
on a piece of 5/8" MDF, and cut and sanded some raw baffles.
THANKS SO MUCH to Austin for that idea!
(as described here):
http://www.gearmonkey.org/sixthman/archives/001934.html

I installed tee-nuts in the rear so that the mid-bass (woofers) could be removed
and re-installed with machine screw bolts as often as I wanted without trouble.
I drilled shallow holes for tee nuts on the back of the baffles.
The holes for the speaker screws were going to be close to the edge of the baffle's
speaker cutout hole. Somewhere, I read that that could cause
MDF to break easily, so instead of hammering in the tee nuts, I ripped
the teeth from the back of the tee nuts, and glued the tee nuts onto the baffles.

A shot of both baffles before painting:




Then I painted the baffles with a Behr water-resistant wood paint. It turned out to be
very durable stuff.

One baffle while paint is drying (EEK! Turn off the orange!):



I chose to mount the RC61 drivers to the baffles using four standard
6-32 machine screws.
I used 8-32 socket cap screws to mount the baffles to the doors.
On the other side of the inner door skin, each socket
cap screw passes through a fender washer to take up space,
and tightens into a nylon insert nut (so it stays tight).

This shows the mounting hardware gear before the baffle was mounted




I deadened the insides of the front doors using Hushmat (original)
One layer on the outer door skin, two layers on the inner door skin



Closeup of speaker hole area, after door was deadened (passenger side)



An even closer shot, showing inside the door panel,
where the speaker hole is


The passenger door with 2 layers of Hushmat applied:



Close-up of passenger door with driver mounted



I am experimenting with stuffing the doors with egg-crate style acoustic
foam. If I can find the time, I will also seal the access holes with aluminum siding
covered with Hushmat to improve the sound.

Here is a quick shot of the rear of the tweeter, which was mounted in the door trim (apparently in the worst place acoustically)


I'm also putting in an Xtant 3300c three channel amp on the rear seat back,
and a Boston Competitor C110 sub in the trunk.

The Boston Competitor sub:






Philippe

Last edited by Philippe; 03-30-2012 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Re-linking of photos, clarifications
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
I'd Buy Another One
 
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Door Weight

Watch the weight that you are putting on those doors. Looks like its going to hit!
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