Finaly finished my custom install- Lots of Pictures
I've been working on this for a while, but it's finally just about wrapped up. All I have left to do is route some of the wires through the box in the trunk to tidy it up.
A few pics of the big three upgrade I detailed a while ago in another thread.
And a few of the HU, an alpine 9883 which controls my ipod. The surround for it was modified and refinished because I didn't like the gray color and it didn't fit right.
These are the front alpine type-r 6.5's in the doors. They are in custom fiberglass surrounds I made from scratch. The one in the passenger door (which is the one in the pics) has some dings, but those are from peoples feet, they weren't like that originally.
The Back deck 6x9's, again type-r's, and again custom fiberglass enclosures.
And finally the sub box. It's 3/4" mdf with only the center sealed for the correct volume. The two "wings" are for cable manegment, and mounting the amps. The amps are a 40w rms x 4 (mpr-f250), and a 400w rms (mpr-m450). The sub is a alpine 12" type-r. The top of the enclosure is again a custom fiberglass job. I swear in person it's jet black, but in the pics it looks green, I don't know why.
So I'm glad I'm finally done, as over the past year I must have over 50 hrs between running wire and fiberglassing. It's perfectly loud for a camry, but it won't kill you, but I was aiming for SQ. The only change I'm considering is making mounts for tweeters in the dash, and changing the 6.5's out for componant mids.
That is what the hole is for, but its a little too small to get the end of the cable through. I need to split one side open, put the wire in form the side, and then re finish it. I'll get to that and the other cables that have to be routed through the box eventually. (and move the remote line to the right hole) Hopefully they will all be hidden in the end.
I'll give that a shot with the pictures, maybe I'll take some more on a sunny day so I don't need the flash, although only 1 or 2 used it. It could have been a reflection from the green ivy behind me, I'm not sure though, i've never been too up on my photography.
That is what the hole is for, but its a little too small to get the end of the cable through. I need to split one side open, put the wire in form the side, and then re finish it. I'll get to that and the other cables that have to be routed through the box eventually. (and move the remote line to the right hole) Hopefully they will all be hidden in the end.
I'll give that a shot with the pictures, maybe I'll take some more on a sunny day so I don't need the flash, although only 1 or 2 used it. It could have been a reflection from the green ivy behind me, I'm not sure though, i've never been too up on my photography.
Dosent look like your ground wire is sitting where you want it either. :P
I do think you need to pressure wash your engine bay though!
__________________
Click that cool picture above for my cardomain!
There is indeed some tidying that needs to be done. It's amazing how your motivation to work on it drops to nothing as son as it is done enough to sound good.
why not run rca's from the headunit to the amps? tech flex and wire loom will protect the wires in the engine bay. I like the work on the pods, but the rear deck stands out a bit too much in my opinion. looks good though, good job!
__________________ AdvanceSpeedShop.com
Address: 4961 Santa Anita Ave Unit B | Temple City, CA 91780
Hours: Mon-Fri: 10AM-6PM PST | Phone: 626-279-7986
Email: Jeff@advancespeedshop.com | AIM: advancespeedJeff
why not run rca's from the headunit to the amps? tech flex and wire loom will protect the wires in the engine bay. I like the work on the pods, but the rear deck stands out a bit too much in my opinion. looks good though, good job!
Not sure what your talking about with the rcs's. I have 6 rca's in two wires running from the HU to the trunk, 4 for the speakers and 2 for the sub if that's what you mean, and the internal amp in the HU is disabled to reduce line noise.
As far as the engine bay, I was never worried about any of them except the one crossing the middle, because from experience cutting it, believe me that casing is tough. I should probably do something about the middle one, but I've taken it on a good highway trip and afterwards it wasn't too hot to touch or discolored, but it would probably be a good idea anyway.
Edit: in that picture of the engine bay it looks like the wire from the alternator to the pos. terminal is touching the heat shield, but in reality it is suspended about 4 inches above it, and there is very little play in the wire so it won't work its way closer.
hey when you did your big 3 uprgrade, did you remove any wire from the alternator?? also what is your fuse size for the atl to battery?? can you please take a close up pic of the alternator with the wires?
Very Nice Work. I'd try and hide as much of that wire around your sub box as possible. It will make your custom install look a lot more clean.
A couple random questions here.
I'm curious to know if you have an alarm installed, if so which one?
Is that an ammeter in your inline fuse sitting on the air filter box?
hey when you did your big 3 uprgrade, did you remove any wire from the alternator?? also what is your fuse size for the atl to battery?? can you please take a close up pic of the alternator with the wires?
No, when I did the big 3 I left all the original wires untouched. Electricity will take the path of least resistance, so there is no performance benefit to removing the oem wiring, and it functions as a sort of backup now. Also its a pain in the ass to remove all of it, but still leave the important stuff hooked up. Every original wire is untouched. The Fuse from alt to battery is 80 amps, which is plenty for a 65 amp alternator.
Here is the alternator from the front, showing both the new ground, and the positive to battery. You can also see the original wires intact, and i just put the new ring terminal under the original. The ground is connected to a screw hole on the alternator, as the original ground is just the bracket that connects the alternator to the engine block. I have painted over the bare metal since taking this picture.
From the side:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan
Very Nice Work. I'd try and hide as much of that wire around your sub box as possible. It will make your custom install look a lot more clean.
A couple random questions here.
I'm curious to know if you have an alarm installed, if so which one?
Is that an ammeter in your inline fuse sitting on the air filter box?
All of the wires will eventually go through the box, as the wings are isolated from the center. I have the holes drilled, I just need to make a few modifications, and you will barely see any wires.
No I don't have an alarm.
And that is a voltmeter, with an alarm if the voltage drops too low, below 11 or 12 volts I think.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.