no, you won't have enough power to run the subs at their full potential.....(some say differently) but if you don't have enough power to your subs, it can potentially overheat your coils and burn out your subs....
the rms on the subs are 400w apiece, while your amp only puts out 1 x 400w @ 2ohms.....so even if you wire your subs at 2 ohms, you'll still be short on power....
basically, you need a bigger amp, or possibly the same type of subs, but not dual coils....
and I would suggest to stay away from rf stuff too....not that good anymore....
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It will be fine. The speakers have more room to grow if you wanted to go with a larger amp. You won't damage anything with your setup and they are compatible amp/speakers. Just as with all systems, don't turn your gains/bass all the way up and if you ever start to hear any distortion, turn down the bass.
Originally posted by angelox umm i'm just confused now
and when it was sold to me at best buy they said it would be fine as well but they said to bridge the amp?
and why does the amp says its 1200watt amp? when it can't handle 400 watt subs?
You don't have to bridge the amp if you don't want to, in fact I wouldn't. And the amp doesn't say it is 1200watt. Did you give the proper link?
Quote:
Originally posted by Fever That amp is weak for two of those subs. Eye8 did the math.
What math are you talking about? And yes the amp doesn't match the subs power rating, but they will still play and sound fine. Nothing will overheat and break.
Run the 401s amp, even though you might like it nothing damaging should happen, if you don't like it with the woofers, you can move up to a 801s amp if you want,, but if you don't move up, you should be fine, unless you do something stupid like turn you hpf gain all the way up...
ON the amp itself, on the top (where the logo lights up)
it says 1200 Watts
also i'm not a big car audio freak...i jsut want something that will WORK and give me decent bass, just as long it won't blow up and cause my car to burst into flames, i'll be happy...
that 1200 watts means max wattage not rms..I think the max usually refers to how much power can be put out on certain notes,, i think, but rms is constant power...
Originally posted by oibone781 that 1200 watts means max wattage not rms..I think the max usually refers to how much power can be put out on certain notes,, i think, but rms is constant power...
no an amp will never put out its max power. the reason they print it on the heatsink is to fool people who dont know any better.
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but if you don't have enough power to your subs, it can potentially overheat your coils and burn out your subs....
how could sending a sub less power than what its rated for overheat its voice coils? if that was possible, there would be no such thing as a volume control because when you turn the volume down you are sending less power to your speakers.
how could sending a sub less power than what its rated for overheat its voice coils? if that was possible, there would be no such thing as a volume control because when you turn the volume down you are sending less power to your speakers.
But...
Quote:
Originally posted by Fever That amp is weak for two of those subs. Eye8 did the math.
Originally posted by angelox ON the amp itself, on the top (where the logo lights up)
it says 1200 Watts
The 1200 watts means that they hooked up up to a meter and did everything possible to get the maximum wattage out of the amp. They cooled it with frion, played specific notes optimized for the amp.. etc.
What the meter measured just before the amp blew up is what they put on the cover.
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