Ok I read through the stickies and did some search over older thread in this section. As the title said, I'm having a package of Visonik Amp + 800W dual subs just arrived today, they will be hooked up to a Eonon 1026N headunit to finish off the system.
It's not the first time I deal with electrical wiring on my 93 Camry. I already have the idea how the set up will be. Now I just need to verify some infos that I couldn't find through the search engine. More questions will come along the way when I have the units hoocked up, but for now here are some specific questions for the veterans:
1/ What is the audio output for the stock radio headunit and the stock front and rear speakers of a 93 Camry ? I looked up the Haynes, googled up a dozen pages but couldn't seem to have a solid answer.
2/ Pretty much all the setup and instruction that I watch and read through tell me to run the power wire directly from battery to the amp and hide them under the carpet. Then run the remote wire for the amp from a dash light. Can I use the possitive and negative wires from the light cigar to power the Amp ? In that case the Amp will turn on and off with the car, no need for remote wire.
3/ I also know that a common set up is to run wire from rear speakers into the AMP through a line-out converter. What if my AMP has high-input hardness ? Does it mean I dont need line-out converter ? I'm hoping it's the case.
4/ My Visonik AMP has 5 wires for the high-input hardness, 2 positive, 2 negative and 1 for "signal ground" ? Do I really need to hook this wire to bare metal ? Isn't negative wire the same as ground wire ?
Thanks for any input, like I said more question will come along the way
I have used 2 alpine HUs with the stock speakers with no issue both 50x4 HUs. I recently upgraded to Boston Acoustic SX-60s with tweeters. I have a huge wire on the Battery (0 Guage) because I was thinking about adding a bunch of stuff, and wanted to be ready. that runs through a hole drilled in the firewall, and down under the driver side carpet. The remote wire is coming from the HU and goes to the amp for my subs (12 IDQ D4 x2 on a JL 500.1)
Im not sure about that harness on your amp, mine has a slot for power, ground and remote, then all of the inputs.
I have used 2 alpine HUs with the stock speakers with no issue both 50x4 HUs. I recently upgraded to Boston Acoustic SX-60s with tweeters. I have a huge wire on the Battery (0 Guage) because I was thinking about adding a bunch of stuff, and wanted to be ready. that runs through a hole drilled in the firewall, and down under the driver side carpet. The remote wire is coming from the HU and goes to the amp for my subs (12 IDQ D4 x2 on a JL 500.1)
Im not sure about that harness on your amp, mine has a slot for power, ground and remote, then all of the inputs.
Do u know why really need to run power directly from battery instead of just splicing off any instrument dash wire ?
Well the speakers have different wattage for different packages that is why you won't find a derect answer. The high and low is if you are going to use to for subs(low) or mids and tweeters(high). And yes you can use the cig lighter for the remote. By it saying remote is only for a low curent 12 volt that only comes on when the cars ignition is on. And I found that the best place to run the wires is drill a hole in the firewall then run it under the carpet by the hump and on the pass side. Well I hope I help a little
Do u know why really need to run power directly from battery instead of just splicing off any instrument dash wire ?
There is a lot of current that flows through that wire for a sound system, so tapping off anything other than the battery is just a fire hazard. This is why we use 0-4 gauge wire for power. Anything smaller and you run the risk of setting your car on fire lol
Well the speakers have different wattage for different packages that is why you won't find a derect answer. The high and low is if you are going to use to for subs(low) or mids and tweeters(high). And yes you can use the cig lighter for the remote. By it saying remote is only for a low curent 12 volt that only comes on when the cars ignition is on. And I found that the best place to run the wires is drill a hole in the firewall then run it under the carpet by the hump and on the pass side. Well I hope I help a little
Thanks that helps, can you be more clear about the high and low ? I'm talking about high input vs line out converter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSo0h0o
There is a lot of current that flows through that wire for a sound system, so tapping off anything other than the battery is just a fire hazard. This is why we use 0-4 gauge wire for power. Anything smaller and you run the risk of setting your car on fire lol
That's what my common sense told me, thanks for clarifying.
If you are going to run just subs you only need to hook up the rca cables from your head unit to the amp low input. The out put is if you want to add more than one amp linking them together. And if you want your mids and tweeters ajustibul from the head units controls you need to run the wires from your head unit wireing harness to the amp high input. Ur just going to run subs right? So all u need is the rca's
If you are going to run just subs you only need to hook up the rca cables from your head unit to the amp low input. The out put is if you want to add more than one amp linking them together. And if you want your mids and tweeters ajustibul from the head units controls you need to run the wires from your head unit wireing harness to the amp high input. Ur just going to run subs right? So all u need is the rca's
I'm running subs only, however the problem is that my headunit doesn't seem to have pre-amp out put. So It's likely that I have to split wires from the rear speakers and run them into Amp.
Some like this
I'm thinking to split wire from speaker, hook then into those wires I showed in the 2nd picture, flug into the Amp High-input. So I dont need the line-out converter right ?
Easy fix. For the rca problem (of not having them). Run down to walmart. Thay should have it wire harness that you splice into your headunits wires that give you the rca outputs. And it still let's you ajust your speakers like normal and without changing the subs. If you wire them just to the rear speakers anytime you ajust your output on the deck( change the balence from front to back) you will also change the way the subs sound and work. And take it from me I tryed that some times it isn't good.
If you are going to spend that much on the audio might as well do it right just for a few extra bucks and have it work great. I also sujest geting good rca cables. I like monster cables myself
Easy fix. For the rca problem (of not having them). Run down to walmart. Thay should have it wire harness that you splice into your headunits wires that give you the rca outputs. And it still let's you ajust your speakers like normal and without changing the subs. If you wire them just to the rear speakers anytime you ajust your output on the deck( change the balence from front to back) you will also change the way the subs sound and work. And take it from me I tryed that some times it isn't good.
Thanks, can you tell me what exactly am I looking for ?
Ether way the volum will go down. As for the inline I don't think so. But I can't see the picks well. I'm on my phone right now. I will look when I get to the comp.
ok back to the laptop. and from the picks you sent. yes you do have the rca cables needed to hook to the amp. 4 and 5 are the ones you need. so you dont need a inline or anything eles. just the cable. and you dont run the ground back to the battery just to a clean metal contact to the trunk or frame
In the photo above, you have no 4 and 5 that says L R out. Are those attached to the back of your headunit or your do you have the harness?
Anything from 12-27 are detachtable, anything from 1-11 are not detachtable.
What does L-out and R-out stand for anyways ? Doesn't make sence ... Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by warlock
ok back to the laptop. and from the picks you sent. yes you do have the rca cables needed to hook to the amp. 4 and 5 are the ones you need. so you dont need a inline or anything eles. just the cable. and you dont run the ground back to the battery just to a clean metal contact to the trunk or frame
Hemm I was wondering what is the RCA cable shipped with my Amp kit for lol. Neither subs nor Amp came with manual. So the set up should be like this ?
Thanks, and another question about the Amp. Here's the picture of the otherside of the Amp. On the right slot, it has "GND", "REMOTE" and "12V+". So can I hook up "REMOTE" and "GND" with "positive" and "negative" wires from ciga ?
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