Speaker replacement

[~Veer~]

Do Corollas use wire harness' for there speakers or can you snip the wires and attach them to your new speakers?

[Blank]

I'm not familiar with corollas but I imagine they are like most other car speakers and use a standard spade terminal. If the terminals on your new speakers aren't the same size then use the ones that came with your new speakers and cut them back about 6" and splice them with a butt connector or solder them together and cover the splice with heat shrink

[Super Blue]

There are 2 wires soldered to the factory speakers terminals. The wires are red and black (positive negative of course). Those 2 wires have a 2 pin male connector at the end which connects to the factory wiring with one of those snap plugs.

If you have a soldering iron laying around you could probably just heat up the connection at the speaker pull the wires off clean and re solder it back on to the new speaker, or you can just cut the wires and put spade terminals at the end.

[zuzu_]

Originally Posted by ~Veer~

Do Corollas use wire harness' for there speakers or can you snip the wires and attach them to your new speakers?

Yes, Corollas use wire harnesses. Crutchfield, SonicElectronix, et. al. sell adapters that are the harness on one side and standard "quick disconnect" terminals (0.205" & 0.110" IIRC) on the other, for about $5/pair.

If you're using the factory wiring, get the wire harnesses. If you're running your own wire, you'll just need to crimp on terminals instead.

[~Veer~]

mehh i just did it my self spliced the wire and got this


in your guys' opinion...would you sacrifice the ability to roll your window down only 95% for some nice speakers?

cause the speakers i put in are too deep and too big so my window doesnt roll down alll the way theres still like 3 inches of window left

[zuzu_]

I'd be more worried about constantly forgetting and always banging the window into the speaker, eventually damaging something (either the speaker or the window). Especially since you don't really know how close the window is to the speaker until you hit it.

However, from the picture, it looks like Future Shop didn't use any speaker bracket. They just screwed the speaker directly into the interior sheet metal of the door. Using a speaker bracket pulls the speaker out by maybe an inch (2-3 cm). I think other people have posted on this forum fabricating custom MDF speaker brackets that are even thicker, yet still fit behind the trim panel, so that they can use deeper speakers. You may want to consider that; perhaps you can use the non-shallow Kappa speakers and still allow the window to fully roll-down.

[~Veer~]

haha futureshop didnt do it mate the guy was being a d*ck so i told him to shove it i took the speakers and just installed my self i may look into making a bracket what material do u suggest making it out of?

[zuzu_]

Originally Posted by ~Veer~

i may look into making a bracket what material do u suggest making it out of?

ah, I was thinking of morkys, who also installed non-shallow-mount speakers in the doors.

MDF, or anything wood-based, will absorb water and swell, and water definitely gets into the door.

A safer bet would probably be ABS plastic.

[~Veer~]

i was thinking acrylic will that do the job?

[Blank]

Originally Posted by ~Veer~

mehh i just did it my self spliced the wire and got this


haha futureshop didnt do it mate the guy was being a d*ck so i told him to shove it

That's my boy right there.

Here are some speaker rings I made for my ford ranger pickup and the deadening etc. Not the exact same situation but the gist is close. Used non hardening modeling clay to get it nice and air tight.
Good Luck

[~Veer~]

thanks for that mate should i also be using that dynamat stuff?

[Blank]

If you plan on keeping coaxials ran off the head unit then I wouldn't bother with the deadning. On the other hand it never hurts the accoustics to tighten up the doors with some sound mat.
Check for cheaper alternatives to dynamat. There are a lot of products on the market these days that work just as well but cost a lot less.

[gameguru1360]

Originally Posted by Blank

That's my boy right there.

man, can't wait to dynamat my doors. I've been debating whether or not to use that dynaliner on top of the dynamat extreme on the doors. I figure I'd get that bulk pak or the mega pak and dual layer the doors as I'm currently dual layering the rear deck and trunk area for my 12" T5 soundstream sub which is in a 2.15cf vented box