Sure, I'll take a couple pictures and do a full writeup. I'll edit this post with it when it's done
I broke this up into two parts.
Connecting amp to battery
Step 1. Locate the rubber grommet where the hood release lever wire exits the firewall. Real easy, just follow the cable, it will exit the left side not far from the lever itself.
Step 2. Prepare a means of support for your power wire. I use a straightened metal coathanger.
Wrap the wire around the coathanger for the full length of it with your power wire and use some method of getting the wire to stay on the coathanger. Keep in mind both the coathanger and wire will need to fit through the grommet so keep it's diameter as small as possible!
NOTE: that's not the power wire i used, just some thin speakerwire i used to illustrate the method.
Step 3. Poke the coathanger through the rubber grommet (or pierce it beforehand with a convenient tool, a small screwdriver would work just fine). If you enter the coathanger at the right angle you will be able to push it towards the front of the vehicle while aiming upwards with the coathanger to the best of your ability.
This is easiest to do with a second person. when about 2/3 of the coathanger has been pushed through towards the front you should be able to find it moving around somewhere inside the fender (follow where the hood release cable starts at the latch itself backwards and you'll see where it goes. It took me several tries doing it by myself but persistence paid off.
Step 4. When you do get the wire to the front by your battery (you'll have to pull the coathanger all the way through, be careful and persistent, if it's straightened enough it will come out), you will want to attach an inline fuse with an appropriate site fuse for the wattage of your system so if anything happens, you blow the fuse, not your amp.
So..... with this method you'll need:
wrenches to loosen your battery terminal
1 metal coathanger
electrical tape
power wire to be attached
1 Inline fuse to be attached close to the battery
That's just running the power wire for the amp, I guess I'll do a writeup on installing the LOC converter for the AUX cables and remote wire for the amp and post pictures tomorrow after I do it.
Connecting amp to factory head unit
There are two things you need to connect to your head unit for your amp to receive the signal.
1. Remote wire. This tells the amp to turn on when the head unit turns on. Use a standard copper wire, I need to double check exactly what port it goes in the deck, I'll find it tomorrow.
2. AUX cables
Since our factory head units do not come equipped with a preamp output, you'll need to get a converter so you can attach AUX cables to your head unit. These come in the 2way and 4 way type. If you are hooking up a mono block amp like me you only need the 2 way. These can be bought online or at any of your local audio stores. They also incidentally sell the AUX cables I needed. The converter shouldn't cost more than $25, and I paid $14 for 17ft of the AUX cables.
Okay, so to get the head unit out and access the back of it to connect our wires, there are lots of things to come off.
Take off the two trim pillars
Remove two philips head screws holding the bracket on
Remove the trim around your shifter, whether it be manual or automatic, as well as around your cup holders and ebrake lever.
remove the trim around your air condition vents
Remove 10mm bolts holding in the head unit
I'll have to pick it up from here tomorrow after I actually do it because that's as far as I got today when I was just unprepared and messing around with it.
One shop I talked to suggested following the cable that is used in popping the hood to find a good grommet. This worked and I got the wire run with little difficulties. Edited post for detailed writeup.
Linear Mode
