My son just got a 05 Corolla CE and wants speakers for his birthday. I would like to get the original size for an easy install. What size are the door and rear deck speakers?
The '05 will take 6 1/2 up front (door) + 6x9 in the rear deck. To see specifically which ones will fit you can enter your car information here: www.crutchfield.com and get a list of speakers that they sell that fit.
If your son intends to keep using the stock headunit, there is really no point to aftermarket speakers. They will not sound better. He might gain some clarity in the highs, but bass response will be almost nonexistant.
If the car still has the stock headunit, you would be much better off buying him a new deck. The stock speakers actually sound rather good with an aftermarket headunit, all things considered.
Whatever way you go, keep as far from Sony as possible. I've yet to see or hear a Sony speaker or headunit that wasn't total crap.
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Toyotas in the family/next of kin:
1982 Corolla Wagon, 1989 Corolla DX, 1991 Previa LE, 1993 Previa LE,
1993 Pickup, 1994 Corolla DX, 1995 Avalon XL, 1996 Camry XLE, 1998 Avalon XL,
1998 Sienna CE, 1999 Camry XL, 2000 Camry XLE, 2002 Tundra, 2003 Tundra,
2003 ES 300, 2004 Camry XLE, 2005 Tacoma
We bought an after market panasonic and of course as a teenager he wants "better" speakers. Thank you for your replies. There is a lot of great people on this site always willing to lend a hand.
I have not removed the factory radio yet. Does the faceplate just pull off and then the radio is removed?
Congratulations to you and your son on the Corolla. This is a DIY posted by another TN member that you might find helpful. I'm very grateful for his DIY for it was very helpful to me.
I have not got that far yet. Thanks for the DIY link. What great pictures! I'll let you know on the head. I would not think he would want to keep it, but you never know with kids.
Also, just to note, although the aftermarket deck does put out more power than the stock deck, it is still less than what most aftermarket speakers are rated for. If you get speakers with a high watt rating, they won't run as well as he might expect. Hopefully someone can recommend a good speaker that runs well off 50 watts
He might also be pleasantly surprised once you get the aftermarket deck in there.
The speakers in the car were designed for the 'premium' 180 watt stereo, but were also used with the base stereo's (100 watts maybe?). An aftermarket headunit is as close to a perfect match as you're gunna get.
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Toyotas in the family/next of kin:
1982 Corolla Wagon, 1989 Corolla DX, 1991 Previa LE, 1993 Previa LE,
1993 Pickup, 1994 Corolla DX, 1995 Avalon XL, 1996 Camry XLE, 1998 Avalon XL,
1998 Sienna CE, 1999 Camry XL, 2000 Camry XLE, 2002 Tundra, 2003 Tundra,
2003 ES 300, 2004 Camry XLE, 2005 Tacoma
My head unit is Panasonic CQ-C7303U Customizable 3D Graphics Motorized Face MP3/WMA/CD Receiver (50W X 4 max)
CD player with built-in MOSFET amplifier (18 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RW discs (including MP3 and WMA files on disc)
SQ7 sound shaping (7-band equalizer and six preset sound curves "Rock," "Vocal," "Pop," "Jazz," "Club"
motorized, flip-down, detachable faceplate with 3D Dot Matrix display
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
I use MTX XT 603 6.5" Speakers for the front
Peak: 260 watts - RMS: 65 watts - High temperature aluminum voice coil with kapton former - Frequency Response: 52 Hz - 22,000 Hz
and JL Audio TR690-TXi 6x9 Speaker for the Rear
· 6" x 9" TR Series 3-way Speakers
· Metal Grilles Included
· Power Handling:
Peak: 400 watts per pair / 200 watts each
RMS: 120 watts per pair / 60 watts each
· Efficiency: 90.5 dB @ 1W/1m
· Frequency Response: 53 Hz - 22 KHz ± 3 dB
· Frame Dimensions: 162.6 mm x 237 mm
· Grille Dimensions: 171 mm x 244 mm
· Magnet Diameter.: 100 mm
· Frontal Coaxial Tweeter Protrusion: 18.2 mm
· Frontal Grille Protrusion: 24.8 mm
· Xmax: 3.35 mm
with out turn on the amp and sub, that still works good, of course alot less in bass
and as for the front speaker, if you not going to keep the oem speaker, you can just cut off the woofer and use the left over speaker flame to mount the new speaker and solder the wires back on the plug in.
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2011 RAV4 I4 LTD with leather package. Used have 9th Gen Corolla with 2nd Gen Altis Tail, 2nd Gen Halo Projector, 17" Enkei RS Evolution, NEXEN N5000, AEM SRI, Vibrant Performance Muffler,Tein H-Tech
Springs
actually it would be easier to just use butt connectors rather than solder and have to make sure those soldered ends are covered because if they cross eac other, you risk fuses shorting or blowing.
butt connectors just slip over the speaker wire ends and be crimped. I use to solder wires and then use electrical tape, but over time and extreme heat, that electrical tape slides off and the wires end up shorting out the speakers.
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Totaled 1996 Corolla DX 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5S with Takeda SRI, stock dual exhausts, mesh grille
LED bulbs for dome/map/turn signal/tail light/3rd brake light/back up bulbs
actually it would be easier to just use butt connectors rather than solder and have to make sure those soldered ends are covered because if they cross eac other, you risk fuses shorting or blowing.
butt connectors just slip over the speaker wire ends and be crimped. I use to solder wires and then use electrical tape, but over time and extreme heat, that electrical tape slides off and the wires end up shorting out the speakers.
depends who doing the job
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2011 RAV4 I4 LTD with leather package. Used have 9th Gen Corolla with 2nd Gen Altis Tail, 2nd Gen Halo Projector, 17" Enkei RS Evolution, NEXEN N5000, AEM SRI, Vibrant Performance Muffler,Tein H-Tech
Springs
I used butt connectors, because I wanted to get done fast. When I solder I never use electrical tape, because it turns to a goopy mess. I use heatshrink. It just slides over the wire and shrinks to fit perfectly when either a heat gun or lighter is applied. Never moves and is great insulation.
Whatever way you go, keep as far from Sony as possible. I've yet to see or hear a Sony speaker or headunit that wasn't total crap.
The Sony Xplod bashing is totally undeserved. It's like an urban myth.
I've had personal experience with an MEX-BT2500, MEX-BT2600, MEX-BT3600U, and MEX-BT5700U. They've all sounded great, had excellent Bluetooth compatibility (especially the BT5700U's support for AVRCP 1.3 profile, which will display ID3 tag information and Caller ID on its display), and have been intuitive to use. (The only negative remark I could make is that newer models default to "Demo Mode" as on rather than off.) All the newer models (after the BT2500, I think) include pre-outs (and remote on) for if you ever decide to add an external amplifier in the future.
Sony speakers (not sure about subs) are crap, though. Infinity Reference speakers are excellent budget speakers, and at 2-ohm (rather than typical 4-ohm) provide a little extra power when using the built-in amplifier in an aftermarket head unit.
My son just got a 05 Corolla CE and wants speakers for his birthday. I would like to get the original size for an easy install. What size are the door and rear deck speakers
I should add that the mounting brackets for both the front 6.5" and rear 6x9 are non-standard. Check eBay for the mjmautoinnovations store (car-speaker-adapters.com). They sell the best speaker brackets, CNC fabricated on-demand from black ABS plastic.
You need them for both the front doors (6.5") and the rear deck (6x9"). They'll make your life way easier for replacing the OEM speakers with aftermarket ones.
I also have to agree with your son, that unlike previous generations of Corolla, the paper speakers used by default in the 9th Generation Corollas are obviously total crap. Maybe it's to increase the contrast of comparison with the "premium" sound system in the Yaris and other Toyota models, since the Corolla is marketed as an "econobox"? I dunno.
Also, the front 6.5" speakers have to be really shallow (to not interfere with the windows), IIRC. Play it safe and get Infinity Reference 6022si ("s" for "shallow mount") for the front doors (~$60 shipped new on eBay) and Infinity Reference 9622i (~$75 shipped new on eBay) for the rear deck. You can get a pair of adapters for OEM to standard 0.187" (positive) and 0.110" (negative) disconnects from Crutchfield, SonicElectronics, etc. for maybe $10.
actually it would be easier to just use butt connectors rather than solder and have to make sure those soldered ends are covered because if they cross eac other, you risk fuses shorting or blowing.
butt connectors just slip over the speaker wire ends and be crimped. I use to solder wires and then use electrical tape, but over time and extreme heat, that electrical tape slides off and the wires end up shorting out the speakers.
That's why you use heat shrink to cover up the connection.
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