Toyota recent HU reliability experience?

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Does anyone have an opinion on the reliability of car audio head units. I was shopping and a local car audio dealer said the Toyota 6-CD changers break all the time and mine won't last long. I know he was trying to sell me up to a new HU, but are the factory 6-CD changers reasonably reliable? I need it to last a few years until I get a NAV unit.

[gideon1331]

It depends on a number of things. I know the Corolla 6 disc changers have a reputation for breaking, and I would assume other Toyota's would as well, since even the Lexus 6 disc changers have been going bad.

For my car (05 Corolla) there were 3 companies that made headunits with the 6 disc changer. Delco, Panasonic, and Pioneer. I know the Delco's had jamming problems, as did another company. I don't know for sure which it was, but my gut would say Panasonic since Pioneer is known for making good stuff.

The design of these changers is horrendous, but really the only way to do it so that a 6 disc changer will fit in the headunit results in a poor design that is prone to failure.

When I had my changer break right after I got the car (off lease) the dealer replaced it with a Delco. So I doubt that the dealer would be selling you anything that was really better than what you have now.

Use it till it breaks, then put something actually decent in that car.

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Thanks for the info - I will start saving up money now then.

[gameguru1360]

the quality of most factory head units and speakers aren't that good. It's just there for the time being, but aftermarket is usually better and can withstand you cranking the volume or the elements from the sun or rain. Even upgraded factory components aren't that great as well.

If you look at the factory speakers, they're made of paper and sound muddled although some manufacturers put in JBL or Bose as their high end systems.

I would try to save up for a Nav unit as well as replacement speakers. Then your next option would be to put in an amp and/or 2nd amp and a sub

[Exit9]

Originally Posted by gameguru1360

the quality of most factory head units and speakers aren't that good. It's just there for the time being, but aftermarket is usually better and can withstand you cranking the volume or the elements from the sun or rain. Even upgraded factory components aren't that great as well.

If you look at the factory speakers, they're made of paper and sound muddled although some manufacturers put in JBL or Bose as their high end systems.

I would try to save up for a Nav unit as well as replacement speakers. Then your next option would be to put in an amp and/or 2nd amp and a sub

I am putting in new door speakers, a sub, a 4-ch amp with two channels bridged to run the sub, and an RF 3SIXTY.1 processor to interface with the factory 6-CD changer. I am planning to install the equipment over the next month.

[gameguru1360]

generally that's not a good idea to bridge a 4 channel to power subs. Most audio aficionados will say either bridge a 2 channel or just get a mono class D amp to power subs. Use a 4 channel to power your speakers. Some people use 2 channel amps to power really good components for the front and then use the head unit to power the rear speakers. You may lose the fade function when you do that.

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I have been into home audio for a long time but I am just getting back into car audio. I have been reading the car audio internet forums and sites the last six months, but this is my first car audio system pick and install since about 1984, and there is more to know and consider now, so I am open to any advice.
The amplifier is a Cadence TX3004 designed for 4-3-2 mixed-mono operation. It has 75W x 4 @ 4ohm and 300W x 2 @ 4 Ohm, power, rated at 13.8 Volts. The amplifier is an A/B type amp with two 25-Amp fuses powered through 4 gauge wire (for a second amp contingency). The subwoofer is a 12”, 4-Ohm , 125-Watt, JL Audio 12W0-4 in a sealed box. The front speakers are Cadence CWM-6KIT 6.5 inch 2-way component speakers. They have 89dB @ 1W/!M sensitivity (per the speaker literature) and are rated for 100W rms continuous.
I thought this equipment (though not the best) is a good value, and should work together fairly well. In 3-channel, mixed-mode, what in particular is the reason it is not recommended. Does the subwoofer channel rob power-supply power from the front channels or something ?
Do you see problems in this equipment matchup? I am about ready to start installation Friday 10/9/09 (starting with the door speakers) but I can still change equipment around now.
Also I am using the factory 6-CD changer (until it breaks and I get a good NAV HU) and a RF 3SIXTY.1 processor interface unit. I am leaving the factory rear speakers disconnected since I am running the sub for bass fill and I need the rear speaker wires for the rear channels.
If there is not enough power in the 4-ch amp, I was thinking of running it in 2 channel mode with 300W/Ch x 2 @ 4 Ohm to the fronts, and picking up a matching Cadence TXA-3002 2-Ch amp bridged for 600W x 1 @ 4 Ohms.
My guess is that the 4-Channel amp will have enough power for me (for sound quality vs SPL or competition) because I usually listen to music in the 80-90dB range. I don’t know about the amp power ratings for comparison purposes since the “complete power specs” are not stated (i.e. distortion, etc.), but the fuses are rated at 2 x 25 Amps , so I expect it has reasonably good power.