I plan on rewiring and extending my pwr and neg terminals to compliment an Optima yellow top. Any opinions on the following terminals? or alternative suggestions?
Positive Term. Expert battery terminal with 4 digit blue LED read-out. Features auto activation. Designed to fit positive battery post and accommodate either two 1/0 wires, two 4 gauge wires, or a combination of one of each, with the included adapters.
Bling Bling Neg. Term. Designed to fit both positive and negative battery posts and accommodate either two 1/0 wires, two 4 gauge wires, or a combination of one of each, with the included adapters.
I'll also be using Luc's tutorial to help me through. Any thing else I need to know? I'll prolly won't be doing this for another month when it gets a bit warmer, but thought I'd plan things properly first.
Quote:
Originally posted by Luc
I have a yellow top in my '98 and I had to rewire all the power and ground. There are two grounds, one under the battery tray, and one to the engine block. There are two powers also, one to the starter directly, and one to the fuse box. The one in the fuse was a big PAIN to get to since I had to trace through the bundles.
If you get an Optima, make sure you get the plate to elevate the battery, so that it will be same stock height, and still use the factory tie down. Here are some pictures.
Nice bling. Spendy though as I remember. For low bucks, you could use marine brass terminals. Nice and shiny, and only a few dollars a piece. They use a wing nut to bolt down the ring terminals of the factory wiring on the battery. They are sufficient for most power requirements, don't corrode like lead, and can be polished to a fine shine at any time.
Phi, I think it's rather useless to have a voltage reading on the terminal, inside the engine. You'll never see it, unless you plan on doing shows, then it's nice. Besides, an analog voltmeter is better looking.
Jigga I don't like it if it don't gleam clean
And to hell with the price
cause the money ain't a thang
Come on, y'all wanna floss wit us
Cause all across the ball we burn it up
Drop a little paper, baby toss it up
Ya slackin on your pimpin, turn it up
See the money ain't a thang
I appreciate y'alls concern. I don't really wanna spend the extra dough on "rice" but it's just so purdy I can't resist. Assuming the item is in stock, I can get both terminals for USD$55. I figured that ain't too bad if regular terminals cost about $10-15 each. A few bucks for some bling 'cause money ain't a thing
Luc: How much of a bitch is this project really gonna be? Truthfully!
Originally posted by Phi Luc: How much of a bitch is this project really gonna be? Truthfully!
If you plan on doing it yourself, get another friend, or two. You can all curse together.
The only time-consuming part is routing from the battery to the main fusible link. Definitely get all the parts you need first. If you are doing what I did: 4-gauge power and ground, 3 4-gauge and 1 8-gauge ring terminals, and perhaps some shrink tube.
1) + battery to starter with 4-gauge.
2) + battery to main fusible link with 8-gauge.
3) - battery to engine chassis right under the battery tray with 4-gauge.
4) - battery to engine block with 4-gauge.
Obviously, do each one at a time, so you can follow along the wire traces. You will need to remove the fusible link box by using a 10mm crescent wrench to remove the bolts. The space is limited since it's right next to the fender.
For the battery posts, make sure you get protective covers also, since they are close to the hood, even with the insulation. Get the Optima plate to elevate it so the tie down can be use. Grind the front down to fit between the grooves, if you want.
I did it at sharad's house....took about 3 hours tho.....cuz it was snowing/raining, dark, cold, and my original battery terminals didn't fit so we had to go to futureshop to get some stinger ones....
but yeah, switching all the wiring is a bitch....but I've heard that you can actually just yank and keep stretching them to work too...
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Originally posted by Luc If you plan on doing it yourself, get another friend, or two. You can all curse together.
The only time-consuming part is routing from the battery to the main fusible link. Definitely get all the parts you need first. If you are doing what I did: 4-gauge power and ground, 3 4-gauge and 1 8-gauge ring terminals, and perhaps some shrink tube.
1) + battery to starter with 4-gauge.
2) + battery to main fusible link with 8-gauge.
3) - battery to engine chassis right under the battery tray with 4-gauge.
4) - battery to engine block with 4-gauge.
I'll just email you to vent my frustration
Couple of Qs;
Why did you not use 4ga wire from + to fuse box?
What the other dinky little wire connected to + along with the fat ass wire. You have it on yours too (pic #1 in the album)
i like those terminals above. my battery actually just kicked the bucket 3 days ago. i went to start my car and there was no juice. my lights were off, my dome light is always off... was kinda odd. my gf was able to give me a boost and it started fine. i drove 10 min, turned off the car, and tried to start it up again. nothing... not even a weak charge. by this time my gf had gone home and it was kinda late so i didn't want to bother her again. luckily i have AMA Roadside Assistance and they were able to come in 5 min since there was one close by. dude tested my battery... only 9.6 volts. he ran another test which showed that one of my cells in the battery was dead. battery's from 1999 so it's about average for lifespan.
so now i need a new battery. i'm planning to go to Costco this weekend to check out their Optima's. i just might do the rewiring as well while i'm at it.
here's my terminals that i've had sitting in a box for a year now.
i've got the silver ones. not as bling as yours... but i think they'll suffice.
Originally posted by Phi I'll just email you to vent my frustration
Couple of Qs;
Why did you not use 4ga wire from + to fuse box?
What the other dinky little wire connected to + along with the fat ass wire. You have it on yours too (pic #1 in the album)
Since I hadn't seen the email just yet, but I'll do a quick reply here. The little 12-gauge wire was for my driving lights when I still had them installed, but since those lights are gone, the wire is gone too.
I didn't use 4-gauge to the fuse box because there was no room to route that through, and the big ring terminal wouldn't have fit inside the box. The factory one was about 8-gauge also.
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