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#1 Old 02-07-2012, 12:02 AM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY

Hello Everyone and welcome to my DIY,

This is the first time I document an upgrade project. Comments and suggestions are welcome. I started this project on September of last year and it has taken a toll on me. I decided to go all out and replace all speakers, include a sub box, sound proof the doors, trunk, and back seats. I am feeling a little discouraged about finishing it, but I know there is no turning back (too many modifications have already been made), I need to finish installing the rest of the componentes, I need some encouragement!!!

Anyway, I divided the thread pictures in three parts: Car, Components, and installation.

Here we go:

CAR:

The car is a 2007 Camry XLE V6, all OEM.







Components:

I decided to go Components for the front, so I got a set of Focal Polyglass 165VB:





Here you can see the MDF bracket I made (1" thick) in order to fit the 6.75" sub into the door:



I soldered the speaker wire into the speakers and I used shrink tubing to secure the wire and the connector:



This is the crossover for the tweeter and the sub:



Unfortunately, by the time I decided to document the install, I had already installed the two tweeters, so no pictures available, sorry. I made custom MDF brackets for the tweeters as well (lots of trial and error since measuring is quite difficult on the dash).

For the rear, first I was going to install a pair of Focal 6X9 690 CA1, but ended up going with Critical Mass SS69:




To power the rear 6X9s and the Focal set, I got a Rockford Fosgate T600-4 amp 4 channel:






Since I wanted to keep the factory HU with navi, I got an Alpine PXE-H660 sound processor to handle the functions previously handled by the factory JBL amp:




As far as the subs are concerned, I am still debating between the two following sets:

The first set is comprised of 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10" subs, powered by a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1 amp, in a Sound Ordnance sealed Bass Bunker enclosure, and wired with 12 AWG Kicker speaker wire:









The second set is comprised of 2 Focal Auditor RIP250-10" subs, powered by a Pioneer GM-D7500M amp, in an Atrend Bbox enclosure, and wired with 12 AWG Kicker speaker wire:









Both sets perform exceptionally well (I tested them in my HT ). So I guess I will have to try them both in the car and make a decision from there.

I am using a Tsunami double amp kit to wire the amps:




I am also using Tsunami interconnects:




In order to meet the power needs of the amps, I am installing an additional battery, I went with the Stinger SPP1200:




When I bought the car, the controller for iPod was optional and the dealer wanted an exorbitant amount of money for it, so this time I am including a controller interphase by GTA Car Kits:




The speakers will be wired with Kicker 10AWG Hyperflex wire:



All power connections will be made with Scosche Power wire 0/1 AWG:




This a sample of the ring connectors that fit 1/0 AWG wire:



This is the mesh I will use to sleeve the power cable:



This is a sample of a ground cable terminated with ring connectors:




For the most part those are the components/materials for the install. I also changed one of the battery terminals of the engine battery and used tons of other hardware: screws, nuts, shrink tubing, electrical tape, etc.)

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||

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#2 Old 02-07-2012, 12:20 AM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY

Installation:
This is what I have installed/modified so far,
Performed Big 3 upgrade:






Applied eDead to the back deck cover:




Applied eDead and RattleTrap/Dynamat to the back deck, trunk, and deck lid:







The passenger door has been finished (I applied eDead, Dynamat, the door speaker has been installed and wired). The driver door still unfinished, I have applied eDead, but I still have to apply RattleTrap and install the speaker.
Driver door with eDead:




Driver door shell with eDead and RattleTrap:



Power cable from engine to the back of the car has been installed. I drilled a hole on the fire wall behind the parking break and used a fire wall bushing from Street Wires to make sure the wire does not get cut with the bare metal:







The rear Critical Mass SS69 speakers have been installed on the rear deck. I made custom MDF brackets to avoid drilling new holes and to clear the torsion bars of the deck lid:











The MDF brackets are 1/2" and the speakers sit indented on the brackets about 7 mm. I also used acustical tape to seal the brackets against the metal.

Passenger side Kicker speaker wire (blue):



The HU has been removed to complete GTA kit installation and wiring:





So that is what I have so far, all comments are welcome!!!
I do have a question for the community, my exhausts' paint is chipping, any ideas how to fix/repair it and what materials to use? Here is a picture that shows the issue:



Oh! And the one thing I did change in the car was the tires; I am using Yokohama AVID ENVigor:



Thank you for reading!!

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||

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#3 Old 02-07-2012, 03:41 AM
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Awesome, beautiful work on your connections, securing, abrasion prevention and a lot of planning. Great Job...


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#4 Old 02-07-2012, 06:33 PM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY

Hello Everyone,

I have another question for those who have done upgrades to their 6th generation Camry. As you know, the Camry has a ton of plastic clips all over and it is very difficult to take something apart without breaking some of those pesky clips. Does anyone know of a good online place where I can find them for cheap? The dealer charges an arm and a leg for them. In general I need to replace about 4 different types (the white ones for the doors, black ones for the wheel dust cover, blue ones for the pillars of the rear deck, etc.). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#5 Old 02-08-2012, 09:01 AM
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Nice/clean install , I used rattletrap too, good stuff especially since its nice and cheap. Though I never went as far as to use eDead, looks way more effective than the rattletrap.

I ordered those plastic clips for my Highlander from TRDsparks.com (the OEM parts section), its was like a few bucks for a hand full of those clips, not too bad (much better than local dealers). I've broken those plenty of times taking body panels on and off lots of times.

quick Q what do you think of those RF P2's? I'm looking at getting a single 10" in a sealed box and I am leaning toward the RF P3D2. I have always used JL and had never used a RF before, so I thought I see what you thought about them.

Click Here for the Full List of Mods Done to My Highlander ---->>> 2008 FWD Highlander Limited
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#6 Old 02-08-2012, 01:56 PM
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Gen6

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Originally Posted by sweeneyp View Post
Nice/clean install , I used rattletrap too, good stuff especially since its nice and cheap. Though I never went as far as to use eDead, looks way more effective than the rattletrap.

I ordered those plastic clips for my Highlander from TRDsparks.com (the OEM parts section), its was like a few bucks for a hand full of those clips, not too bad (much better than local dealers). I've broken those plenty of times taking body panels on and off lots of times.

quick Q what do you think of those RF P2's? I'm looking at getting a single 10" in a sealed box and I am leaning toward the RF P3D2. I have always used JL and had never used a RF before, so I thought I see what you thought about them.
Hi! Thank you very much for replying!

eDead is very effective and easy to apply, you can use a brush or a paint gun, I definitely recommend it!

Thanks for the tip about the parts, I will give them a look and see if they have the ones I need in stock.

The RF P2D2s are absolutely awesome! They are very accurate and have a very nice extension. Definitely better suited with a sealed enclosure. In your case, since you want to install only one, I will go with the P3D2, it is a 500 Watts RMS vs. 300 Watts RMS for the P2D2. Also, it depends if you are looking for SPL or just tight accurate bass. My set up is not for SPL, but for good imaging and good component integration. I hope this helps!

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#7 Old 02-08-2012, 02:11 PM
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thanks for the info on the RF sub. I'm doing pure SQ in this latest phase of audio upgrades, so I was debating between the JL W3 or RF P3D2 and am going with the RF due to being a little cheaper. But I had planned on giving it (or the JL if I went that route) 500 watts at 4 ohms. If the new sub creates lots of rattles that the rattletrap can't handle I might have to go back and give that eDead a shot, sounds a lot easier to put on than the stick on sheets.
thanks again.

Click Here for the Full List of Mods Done to My Highlander ---->>> 2008 FWD Highlander Limited
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#8 Old 02-08-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sweeneyp View Post
thanks for the info on the RF sub. I'm doing pure SQ in this latest phase of audio upgrades, so I was debating between the JL W3 or RF P3D2 and am going with the RF due to being a little cheaper. But I had planned on giving it (or the JL if I went that route) 500 watts at 4 ohms. If the new sub creates lots of rattles that the rattletrap can't handle I might have to go back and give that eDead a shot, sounds a lot easier to put on than the stick on sheets.
thanks again.
JL and RF are very similar as far as quality. I have read many reviews of people complaining about JL subs, but in my opinion, the best sub is the one that suits your needs without breaking the bank.

If I were you, I would still do the eDead application, you can actually apply it on top of the RattleTrap; trust me, it makes a difference. A one gallon can of eDead black will cost you $50.00 + shipping, but now they have it for $37.50 + shipping, so the discount is over 20%, not bad in my opinion. . Here is the link: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=53

You will need at the most 2 gallons for your application. I did the doors, door panels, back deck, deck cover, back seats, and the whole trunk with just a little over 2 gallons. I gave it 2 coats and in some parts 3 coats, I was not shy putting that Goo on!

Let me know if you decide to apply the eDead to your SUV. BTW, I saw the pictures of your SUV, very nice work!!

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#9 Old 02-08-2012, 07:53 PM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY Reply to Thread

Hello Everyone,

I just wanted to give you a little update as far as where my progress is. Today, I installed the GTA car kit for the iPhone/iPod, it was very easy with the cables they supplied in the package, just decide the location for the unit and then plug it in, that is it, not much to it!

My next step is to tap into the existing speaker wires to run my own into the Alpine PXE-H660. I am thinking my best bet will be to splice the wires under the passenger seat that were feeding into the JBL amp as opposed to doing it at the HU. Would there be any disadvantages doing it this way, anyone? The PXE-H660 will be installed in the trunk, along with the amps, and the Stinger battery.

Also, I am in the process of figuring out how to secure the sub box in the trunk, any suggestions?

That is it for today! Please leave comments or ideas, what makes this forums useful is feedback!!

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#10 Old 02-08-2012, 09:02 PM
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thanks, I haven't uploaded a lot of the stuff I've done recently though, everything is a bit out of date.

for the signals
as for getting the speaker signal...you have the jbl system? Its a bit different than most. You can't tap anything behind the headunit (if its anything like the highlander's/tundra's jbl system). The headunit outputs a L and R full range signal to the amp, then the amp does all the work (A camry specific wire diagram would confirm this). You will probably have to tap after the jbl amp to get each speaker input for the alpine processor. (its how I had to do it to get a signal for my 4 channel amp).

and for sub mounting,
I have always used double sided industrial strength velcro. I hate screwing into the deck/bottom of the car. If you put a lot of it on the bottom of the box it shouldn't move (especially considering it has heavy subs in it.) Mine have never moved an inch, even under heaving swerving/braking. so just a possibility there if opposed (like me) to screwing into the car

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#11 Old 02-09-2012, 02:16 AM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweeneyp View Post
thanks, I haven't uploaded a lot of the stuff I've done recently though, everything is a bit out of date.

for the signals
as for getting the speaker signal...you have the jbl system? Its a bit different than most. You can't tap anything behind the headunit (if its anything like the highlander's/tundra's jbl system). The headunit outputs a L and R full range signal to the amp, then the amp does all the work (A camry specific wire diagram would confirm this). You will probably have to tap after the jbl amp to get each speaker input for the alpine processor. (its how I had to do it to get a signal for my 4 channel amp).

and for sub mounting,
I have always used double sided industrial strength velcro. I hate screwing into the deck/bottom of the car. If you put a lot of it on the bottom of the box it shouldn't move (especially considering it has heavy subs in it.) Mine have never moved an inch, even under heaving swerving/braking. so just a possibility there if opposed (like me) to screwing into the car
Thanks for the info! I do have the JBL system ; I am not exactly sure what you meant by having to tap after the JBL amp, I actually removed the amp from the car! I remember reading somewhere around this forum that other people have removed the amp and kept the HU, I guess a search is in order! Crutchfield offers a "diagram" of the connections on the 2007 Camry with and without navi, the link for the diagram with navi is: http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/...N0JublZlUWs%3D

From the diagram supplied by Crutchfield, you are correct, the HU only sends a R and L signal to the amp, then the amp splits the signal among the speakers. If the amp has been removed, can I just split the R and L signal among the different channels going into the PXE-H660? The link to the PXE-H660 manual is: http://www.alpine-usa.com/support/search/?q=PXE-H660

From the PXE-H660 manual, I can see on page 9 that the audio processor has R1 R2, L1, L2, and S (5 channels) as inputs. Then it splits the signal to a 6.1 analog line level outputs, front 1 and 2, rear, and sub.

In your case, you went directly from the JBL amp to your amp with the help of a LOC, correct?

I may have to contact Alpine and see what they suggest, in the mean time anyone with a similar set up care to shed some light?

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#12 Old 02-09-2012, 03:55 AM
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Gen6 2007 Camry XLE V6 DIY

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweeneyp View Post
thanks, I haven't uploaded a lot of the stuff I've done recently though, everything is a bit out of date.

for the signals
as for getting the speaker signal...you have the jbl system? Its a bit different than most. You can't tap anything behind the headunit (if its anything like the highlander's/tundra's jbl system). The headunit outputs a L and R full range signal to the amp, then the amp does all the work (A camry specific wire diagram would confirm this). You will probably have to tap after the jbl amp to get each speaker input for the alpine processor. (its how I had to do it to get a signal for my 4 channel amp).

and for sub mounting,
I have always used double sided industrial strength velcro. I hate screwing into the deck/bottom of the car. If you put a lot of it on the bottom of the box it shouldn't move (especially considering it has heavy subs in it.) Mine have never moved an inch, even under heaving swerving/braking. so just a possibility there if opposed (like me) to screwing into the car
Well my friend, I should have read the PXE-H660 manual prior to my previous post, if you look at page 44 of the PXE-H660 manual, it describes a scenario just like mine, where the HU only outputs a R & L full range signal, check it out!

PD. I also did a search and posted questions on other people's threads that used the PXE-H660, I guess you can never have too much info!!

Sound System: Alpine INA-W910, PXA-H100, KTX-H100 || Focal Components 165 VB || Critical Mass SS69 || 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 subs || Sound Ordnance enclosure || Rockford Fosgate T600-4, R1200-1D amps || Optima Yellow Top, Stinger SPP1200 batteries || Tsunami Amp Kit || Big 3 upgrade ||
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#13 Old 02-09-2012, 04:36 AM
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Hi Shelha,
Very nice writeup.

Regarding the PXE-H660, in my case I do not have the JBL amp. The stereo sends a full signal to the 2 rear speakers and to the 2 door speakers. The tweeters in the dash only get the highs, and someone told me it was just a resistor there that cuts out the lows.

With that in mind, what I did was pretty simple.
I took the wires that would go to my left rear speaker, added Metra 72-8104 (wire kits) and sent the whole signal to the L1 and L2 wires of the PXE. Did the same for the right side with R1 and R2.

From there I ran RCAs to my amps from the PXE, using this:
Front 2 - Amp for your front speakers
Rear - Amp for your rear speakers
Sub - to your sub amp.

Front 1 would be used only if you were going to amp the tweeters separately, in which case you would use Front 2 for the mids.

Since I didn't want to cut any speaker wires, I ran new wires to each speaker from my amps (rears were easy, fronts were a little tough getting the wires through the rubber boot from the car to the door, but persistence paid off by using electrical tape and a wire coat hanger).
I'm not sure what you are gong to do, but I'm sure someone has done something similar here (bypassing the JBL amp or not?).

You will lose the fader control from your headunit, but you can use the remote from the PXE to do that.

There is a small whine (I have tons of wires in the trunk, power and speaker wires that needs to be cleaned up) which I will fix.

I followed a thread on Crutchfield's Community Forums titled "Alpine PXE-H660 install info" by mpblu. I had to read the whole thing a couple of times to fully grasp what I needed to do.

Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.
Z

Last edited by CypressPearl; 02-09-2012 at 04:41 AM.
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#14 Old 02-09-2012, 05:08 AM
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There is a correction to the last post.

"The tweeters in the dash only get the highs, and someone told me it was just a resistor there that cuts out the lows."

It should be; "The tweeters in the dash only get the highs, and someone told me it was just a capacitor there that cuts out the lows".

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#15 Old 02-09-2012, 08:06 AM
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Well here is a post to how I replaced mine (link), and was helping a guy w/ a tundra do the same thing. The 2.5" (camry has the same ones) in the dash get mids and highs, the JBL amp has a built in crossover network and outputs only those frequencies to those 2.5" and only lows to the door 6x9 as part of their distributed sub tech. the amp does not output a full range signal then use a cap to get only higher frequencies, its all built in making it a major pain in the a** to work with. I think the rear is a full range signal, but it might have split the tweeter and woofer into 2 separate channels driven by 2 separate lines from the amp. If the rear 6x9 has 4 inputs, then it is like that. You will have to combine the 2 channels into a single channel, not sure if that Alpine can do that, I used a JL CL-SSI to combine the front channels on mine. I would contact Alpine and explain that the headunit only outputs L+/- and R+/- and the amp does all the crossfading and channel separation. Their device might be able to combine the front 6x9 and front 2.5" signals into a single full range signal for the front, but their manual isn't clear when I glanced at it, so I'm not sure. That full range signal wiring on pg 44 looks like it makes up for this setup (without having to use the JBL amp) but I can't be sure the manual just isn't that detailed as I would think you would lose fading/volume control etc...

anyone got a 2007-2011 Camry JBL wire diagram???

edit: in looking at that crutchfield pin-out diagram, it confirms what I was afraid of. The rear 6x9 woofer and rear tweeter (mounted coxially in 6x9) receive 2 separate channels of sound. That complicates things...but found a youtube vid from alpine that shows the processor working without the jbl amp on an 07 camry, so it will work, just not sure how haha.

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