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Old 06-16-2004, 12:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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questions on system connectings....

Well, some of you know that i've been busy working on some custom boxes for my subs. Well, i pretty much have the first one built. I left some space in the middle to put an extra battery (if needed).

My question is, what battery is the best to get? What wires do i need to connect the system battery to the car battery?

In case you guys are wondering why i'm gonna put an extra battery, it's cause i'm gonna run 2-10" JL w3v2's powered by an alpine 500 mono amp @ 2 ohms and 2-10" JL w6v2's powered by an alpine 1000 mono amp also @ 2 ohms.
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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just get a yellow top... running 2 batteries is a bitch
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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if i run two batteries, does that mean i would have to get a tougher alternator that can handle more power? or can i just have a regular alt.?

i gotta know so that way i know what alt. to pick up for my new V6 engine
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Old 06-16-2004, 01:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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well you have to get an isolator and a bunch of other crap to wire it up correctly, otherwise the batteries will "fight" to get charged and this usually ends up in a broken electrical system. Basically, it's not worth doing.
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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so how would i be able to isolate the system battery. will it charge automatically when the car battery is on if i run wires from battery to battery?
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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just get a yellow top and a capacitor or two and you'll be fine no need for 2 batts or hey if you want i got a high out put one wire gm alternator that's brandnew in the box if your interested.
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you had done some research on battery isolator, you'd know what it does. When the car is running, both batteries get charged, once car is off, the isolator (a big relay) switches so only the secondary battery would be used for the stereo, while leaving the main one unused except for stock electrical system.
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Old 07-05-2004, 07:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I opted not to do a second battery, but i have another question concerning connections of the subs.

With the 10" JL w3v2's, which would be better for me, parallel/parallel, or series/parallel?
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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^ Which 10W3v2's do you have? Dual 2 ohm, dual 4 ohm, or dual 6 ohm?

How you wire them up depends on which ones you have and the ohms you want to run them at.

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well your running 1500 watts, that is what I am running right now, 1200 to 1 ID Max Sub and 300 to my iridiums, I upgraded my alt to a 180amp, put in a High output battery SVR (killed the stock one) and upgraded the big 3. I recommend the big 3 first, if you still get dimming, upgrade the bat, dimming still? upgrade the alt, by now you should have no or minimal dimming.

To run your subs at max your subs need to be 10W6D2's run each sub in series and then wire the two in parallel, this will give you a 2ohm load.
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Old 07-07-2004, 03:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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W3v2 10" subs are 300 watts each. The amp i have has a total of 900watts max. It says in the booklet that if i ran the amp at 12v., I can get up to 400watt x 1 channel at 2 ohms.

Does this mean that i can do a series/parallel connection and run the 2 subs with the amp that i have now? For those who don't know, i have a MRD-M500 Mono amp from Alpine.
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Old 07-07-2004, 03:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Im confused, are you running 4 tens? your post says your running W3's and W6's so which is it? I was running 3 10W3 with a 1500 watt amp and they handled the power just fine, I kept the gain a little lower cause 500watts rms to each sub is the max those W3 will take.
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