I'm sure you'd be safe without a fuse since there isn't one from the factory. The alternator only makes 80a so there's no need for a fuse larger than that.
Funny, I'm sure I saw a 100A fuse marked ALT in the fuse box near my batt. I'll check tomorrow.
Don't know about on your camry, but on a corolla, you kind of pull it away from the alternator and then parallel to the alternator, along the wire.... if that makes sense. Just mess around with it, it shouldn't be that hard to figure it out.
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4 cyl 1991 Camry LE ... if you own a 2nd Gen Camry talk to me about the modifications you have made or wish to make... lets help eachother out
Don't know about on your camry, but on a corolla, you kind of pull it away from the alternator and then parallel to the alternator, along the wire.... if that makes sense. Just mess around with it, it shouldn't be that hard to figure it out.
Sorry to resurrect a long dead thread, but I'm in the same spot with a different problem.
I have an 8th Gen Corolla, and replacing the stock negative grounds with 0 AWG wire (Radnor welding cable from Airgas, which is real 100% OFC and honest gauge -- some "4 gauge" wire looks like 8-gauge with thicker insulation).
For the negative/ground, there was one cable that went from the engine right next to the alternator case to the chassis on the passenger's side. There was a cable that went from battery negative to transmission case to chassis, and another that went straight from battery negative to chassis on the driver's side.
However, the OEM wire from the alternator (approximately 8-gauge) seem to run into a fuse box for the A/C, heater, DRL, and maybe one other big amp item, and that box has a bunch of wires that come out of it, many of which run along the frame in front of the radiator, and then near the battery fork into a 4-way split, one of which goes to the battery positive terminal, which also has a ring terminal that goes to the larger fuse box on the driver's side.
Basically, the OEM wiring is a confusing mess; any advice on teasing out the main 8-gauge cable for replacing it with the 0-gauge cable? Is there any sane way to deal with the fact that it seems to "distribute" on it's way to the battery? Should I just run the 0-gauge cable parallel to the OEM stuff and just have it go to the battery? (That means the alternator will have two ring terminals attached to it.)
Sorry to resurrect a long dead thread, but I'm in the same spot with a different problem.
I have an 8th Gen Corolla, and replacing the stock negative grounds with 0 AWG wire (Radnor welding cable from Airgas, which is real 100% OFC and honest gauge -- some "4 gauge" wire looks like 8-gauge with thicker insulation).
For the negative/ground, there was one cable that went from the engine right next to the alternator case to the chassis on the passenger's side. There was a cable that went from battery negative to transmission case to chassis, and another that went straight from battery negative to chassis on the driver's side.
However, the OEM wire from the alternator (approximately 8-gauge) seem to run into a fuse box for the A/C, heater, DRL, and maybe one other big amp item, and that box has a bunch of wires that come out of it, many of which run along the frame in front of the radiator, and then near the battery fork into a 4-way split, one of which goes to the battery positive terminal, which also has a ring terminal that goes to the larger fuse box on the driver's side.
Basically, the OEM wiring is a confusing mess; any advice on teasing out the main 8-gauge cable for replacing it with the 0-gauge cable? Is there any sane way to deal with the fact that it seems to "distribute" on it's way to the battery? Should I just run the 0-gauge cable parallel to the OEM stuff and just have it go to the battery? (That means the alternator will have two ring terminals attached to it.)
Sorry such a late response... I had this same problem in my chevy before i got my new tacoma. From the alternator, the pos. cable ran into a loom of many more wires and eventually broke of into many different routes ending at the BCM, Fuse box, and fire wall (which I have no idea where it went from there) anyways... In the end I finally decided NOT to upgrade this wire due to the fact that the output and voltage from the alternator was monitored and controlled by the cars computer. I am MECP certified so i have a very in the depth knowledge of 12v and with this in mind, adding an additional wire from the alternator to battery could and most likely would throw a check engine light due to the change in amperage and resistence in the factory wiring. Even if the light did not come on, this could lead to more serious problems with the cars charging system. Although there is a chance that nothing will happen and it will end up just fine, i opted not to take that chance. If you do decide to add another wire (do not replace your wire!! only add to it) run it directly from alternator pos to battery pos and use an anl blade fuse rated at 80 or 100 amps. (lower if your alternator is lower. just do not exceed your alternators output rating.) good luck
ajenright is correct about not replcing the factory wiring, there is no need, and you will actually benefit more from having the two runs to the battery.
There is no need to worry about another run from the alternator to the battery confusing the ECU on cars where it regulates the alternator. It's just a simple voltage monitor that splits from the factory alt/bat wire. It works just like the old style regulators do. It monitors the voltage on that line, when it drops below 13.5v (for Chevy) it adjusts the current going to the stator to raise the output of the alt.
These guy's http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/ are who you should look to if you want to cut the ECU out of the picture all together.
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