Electrical Issues (Dont Know)

[oibone781]

Still working on get my amp to stop going into protect. So far i have add a 150 anl fuse from alt to bat, the amp seems to stay on a little longer. I went to autozone yesterday because when i tested my battery (stinger sp1000) it read 14.4 volts but the car was started. The guy said nothing was wrong with my alternator. This moring when i first started the car it read 15.0 volts, but the car was still cold. But once i turn my system on the voltage just drops all the way down to around 12.5-11.0 and the amp goes into protect, as soon as the amp shuts off the battery charges back up to about 14v in about 1min or 2min..Need help guys, whats the problem?

[[SMAN]]

Sounds like your amp is really sucking down your voltage there. Amps will go into protected mode if it gets too little voltage. My guess is tehre my be a short somewhere inside the amp that is causing this voltage draw. I would take it to the shop that u got it from or a shop in general and see if they can get it to work.

[The Wolf]

If it's a new amp, I'd get another one. I had a Jensen amp (first amp, whoops) that the power wire shorted to the bottom of my passenger's seat. The amp shut itself off and went into protect mode. Got home and fixed the problem, but it only came out of protect mode once for about 2 min. Took it back to Circuit City and got my first MTx amp, much happier with it.

[eddiem67]

What amp or amps are you running?

[oibone781]

rock 1500bd

[eddiem67]

are you pushing all 1500 watts, if yes, you need to upgrade your alt to a 180-200 amp, your amp is overheating most likely or getting insufficient power from you electrical and going into protect. My ppi used to do that, it is very bad for your amps.

[oibone781]

so would the big 3 and an extra battery help?

[Delo]

What it could also be is the wiring, my friends has an alpine mrd 501 that they accidentally wired down to 1 ohm parallel, it would play for a few mins, then the amp would turn itself off/go into safe mode. You think you wired your subs down to too low of an ohm? Just something to ask urself.

[Tercel GTS]

Get the battery load tested also, the voltage shouldn't flux that much nor that quickly. You may need to trickle charge the battery ovenight for a proper charge.

[oibone781]

i have to dual 2 ohm speakers, i forget if it is in parallel or series, but i have them wired into 2 ohms. being that the amp is 2ohm stable..

[Delo]

Then i think your running a series, so if your running wires like that, and your amp is 2 ohm stable, then thats not the problem. Just a whole other list of what may be the problem..

[oibone781]

I don't think it is the wiring neither, because i can play for a nice bit of time, i can play it loud enough for the trunk to rattle for about 10-15min depending on how much bass a particular song has before it cuts off.....

[KILLACAMNY]

If you have really exhausted all the possible options, you just send the amp in and get a new one. When I received my first RF1001bd, it worked for about a day and didnt go back on. I sent it in and got a new one. Yours should still be under warranty, just get a replacement. It happens sometimes.

[eddiem67]

Yes the big 3 is definitely required, I suggest running 0awg, 4awg is too small to everything. get the battery, this is the cheapest route. I have a bat cap if your interested in it, its basically a 100 farad cap to help eliminate those quick 5 second burst. Anyway do those two first, are you getting dimming at night? So first do the big 3, upgrade your battery, see how everything goes, if problems still persist, get HO alt or batcap.

[oibone781]

Alright tonight i have added another battery and moved the sp1000 to the trunk, the batt under the hood is a some autozone battery putting out 875crank amps, not cold crank. so i ran positive under hood to positive in trunk, then i grounded negative in trunk, is this the proper way to run the battery..