I'm looking into putting one or two eights on the rear deck in a custom glassed enclosure. Does anyone know of any shallow 8's that'll do well in a small sealed enclosure?
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Peace cannot be kept by force, it can only be achieved through understaning. - Al Einstein
The 8's won't respond well below 45-50hz depending on brand, if at all, and won't carry much over 150hz. They will not make effective midbass speakers. This is the majority of the range of a 12-15 inch, and cancellation may become a concern if you plan to run a sub, but might not if you get it right, or play with the x-over points creatively.
Myself, I use the 8's as subs, as there is little below the 40 point that does not either a) rattle the car to pieces, b) require higher volumes that my old assed ears can't take anymore to even notice beyond a vibration. 8's also tend to reporduce kick drum and tight bass guitar far better than larger units.
thanks for the input grieger, I want to find a use for these two 100 watt cannels I have on my amp, but perhaps I'm being too impulsive. I have two fifteens, two 5.25 polk momo woofers and two tweeters, I guess I'll just biamp the comp sets and explore from there. thanks all for the input.
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Peace cannot be kept by force, it can only be achieved through understaning. - Al Einstein
My RMB8's are running between 1000 and 80. My replacement Dynaudio 8's (coming soon) will be in the same range. I am not missing any audio content at all.
8" woofers can make effective midbass drivers. Some of them can even make effective midrange/midbass drivers. I've listened to a car with 12's as the midbass unit. It was an awesome system.
But why in the rear deck? I would run them in the front with a seperate componet set. Then get some serious tweets. One more thing what do you guys consider midbass? I think some compare midbass to a kick bass. I don't think mid bass will sound that great reproduced from a SUB bass woofer.
The idea behind running midbass in the rear is to acoustically align the midbass frequencies with the highs up front. It's sort of like time alignment sans electronics. The reason you would do this is if the MB driver you are using cannot(for whatever reason) be installed up front or if the available space does not provide decent pathlengths or optimum performance. Executed properly, you can give the illusion of a front stage.
Having said that, I would just find a driver that can work up front. There are a multitude of choices available for just about any budget and for any scenario.
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