After two different attempts of someone trying to steal my car, and with them actually almost getting away with it on the 2nd attempt, I've finally gotten myself a alarm. It's a Viper 771XV with a 2-way LED paging remote and remote start, my friend was able to get it for me for a good deal where he works. This is going to be going into a 1990 Camry V6 LE. I'm going to attempt to install the system myself, so I have a BUNCH of questions. What would be a good location to install the siren in the engine bay where I wouldn't have to drill any holes into? I have a 2VZ-FE so my engine bay is a lot more cramped. Also what would be a good spot on the firewall where I can pull the wires for the siren and hood trigger through? Again without drilling any holes or removing a fender. I know that there's a orange grommet on the driver side firewall to pull the wires through, but it seems impossible to access without removing the fender. What would also be a good spot to install the control unit and shock sensor in the car? I've heard that the steering column is a good place to strap the sensor, but I've also heard that the sensitvity is a lot weaker. ANother thing is would it be much harder to hook up the remote start feature? And lastly, how should I make my connections? Should I use T-taps for the basic wirings such as the door triggers, parking light, lock/unlock or should I just strip and twist the ends. I think that's all the questions I in my mind right now. My only main concern right now is how and where to mount the siren and control unit, and where to feed the wires through the firewall. I've been looking under my hood and dash pretty much the whole morning and couldn't find any possible spots. If I can't get this installed, I might just give it back to my friend to return and end up getting a Club or something.
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Last edited by HeNry2kOoL; 03-24-2005 at 06:28 PM.
What would be a good location to install the siren in the engine bay where I wouldn't have to drill any holes into?
I have mine mounted by the brake booster. Pretty much just find a place where it'll fit and mount it.
I suggest mounting it with screws. Don't go ghetto and zip tie it somewhere.
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I know that there's a orange grommet on the driver side firewall to pull the wires through, but it seems impossible to access without removing the fender.
You don't remove the fender. The fender / wheel well liner is what you remove.
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What would also be a good spot to install the control unit and shock sensor in the car?
I usually zip tie the shock sensor to the ignition harness (the harness on the bottom of the steering colum with the big fat wires).
As for the control unit (brain), stash it somewhere. The harder it is to find and get to, the better. I usually bury them up inside the drivers side dash.
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ANother thing is would it be much harder to hook up the remote start feature? And lastly, how should I make my connections?
Theres a few extra wires for the remote start feature.
You can use t-taps; crimp connectors (butt connectors); or strip off some of the insulation from the wire, twist the wire from the alarm wiring harness around it, solder, and wrap it with electrical tape.
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If I can't get this installed, I might just give it back to my friend to return and end up getting a Club or something.
Buy a .45 or 12 gauge and hope you catch the mofos that are trying to steal your car.
Thanks for your quick response and suggestions 88LE. Did you mount your siren on to a existing screw/nut that was near the brake booster? If so, which screw(s) did you use?
Thanks for the taking the time to take the pic. Well I've literally spent the whole entire day on installing it and I have yet to finish, this is the most frustrating thing I've ever delt with. I still can't get several things to work right on the system. So far I got the remote start to work, but for some reason I the starter kill doesn't working which I don't understand. The starter wire is completely cut and both ends are hooked up to the remote satellite relay it came with, so I don't know how the 'on-board' starter kill isn't working. I was sitting in the car with the alarm going off and I could still start with the key. I was able to hook up the door lock, but wasn't able to find the wire to the door unlock.
Which wire would be the correct wire to the door unlock? The wiring diagram that I got from http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...13314&MakeID=2 shows that the wire is green/red, I tapped into that wire on the driver's side kick panel and it didn't work, I found another wire that's light green/red and it still didn't work (both of those wires are in the same batch as the door lock wire).
I was also unable to locate the brake light wire. I've tried looking above the brake pedal but I couldn't find it or I haven't looked hard enough.
Then there's also the tach sense wire, where should I hook that up to in my engine bay? I tried hooking it up to the "IG-" connector next to the Diagnostic port and I don't think it worked.
What kind of inline connectors should I use for the ignition harness wires? Those wires are higher guage and the 3M scotchloks I'm using them on are listed for 14-18guage (I think) and they're too small for the wires so the splicer doesn't go down all the way and can't snap it close. I'm planning to re-do the whole ignition harness wires as it doesn't look too safe, so I need to find the right inline connectors.
As for tomorrow, I still need to route the wires through the firewall, then clean up all the wirings, hide the control unit, and of course... fix the all the problems listed above. This is a lot of work putting into a 15 year old car.
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Last edited by HeNry2kOoL; 03-26-2005 at 04:03 AM.
So far I got the remote start to work, but for some reason the starter kill doesn't work which I don't understand. The starter wire is completely cut and both ends are hooked up to the remote satellite relay it came with, so I don't know how the 'on-board' starter kill isn't working. I was sitting in the car with the alarm going off and I could still start with the key.
Recheck your wiring.
When you cut the starter wire, your left with 2 ends. One end to the ignition switch (key) and the other to the starter.
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I was able to hook up the door lock, but wasn't able to find the wire to the door unlock.
Which wire would be the correct wire to the door unlock?
I don't remember the wire colors, but both wires (door lock & unlock) are contained in a plug in the drivers side kick panel. IIRC both wires are contained in the same plug.
Pick a plug thats within the drivers side kick panel and pull it. Then try to operate the door lock/unlock by using the switch on the door. If the door lock/unlock doesn't work, the wires are contained within that plug. And if the door lock/unlock still works, you have the wrong plug.
When you find the correct plug, plug it back in. Use a DMM to probe each wire till you find the correct wires. Both the door lock/unlock use a negative trigger (IE: goes from +12V to ground whenver the door lock/unlock switch is activated).
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I was also unable to locate the brake light wire. I've tried looking above the brake pedal but I couldn't find it or I haven't looked hard enough.
Theres a switch that screws into the top of the brake pedal. You'll have to look underneath the dash for it.
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Then there's also the tach sense wire, where should I hook that up to in my engine bay? I tried hooking it up to the "IG-" connector next to the Diagnostic port and I don't think it worked.
You have 3 choices:
1. Black wire on ignitor. The ignitor is located on the left side of the battery on a 3S-FE.
2. Check connector on top of the distributor. Should be a plug with a single wire.
3. Black wire on one of the plugs going into the back of the gauge cluster.
What kind of inline connectors should I use for the ignition harness wires? Those wires are higher guage and the 3M scotchloks I'm using them on are listed for 14-18guage (I think) and they're too small for the wires so the splicer doesn't go down all the way and can't snap it close. I'm planning to re-do the whole ignition harness wires as it doesn't look too safe, so I need to find the right inline connectors.
Thanks for the pics again, apparently the wiring diagram got the Ignition 1 and 2 wires mixed up which was keeping the on-board starter kill from working and other things from functioning right. I bought some heavier gauge connectors for the ignition harness wires and got everything to work except for that door unlock wire. I've tried tapping into the green/red wire as listed on the diagram hoping the first time was just a bad connection, but no it still didn't work. Before I started anything I did unplug all the connectors on the fuse box and I was still able to lock/unlock my doors, unless I missed a connector. The lock wire that I tapped into seems to be bunched together by electrical tape and didn't seem like it there was a connector to the fuse box.
Also, how should I calibrate the dual shock sensor sensitivity? How hard of a hit should trigger the warning chirps and how hard should trigger the full alarm?
Edit: I've found another wiring diagram that tells me the unlock wire is dark green, so I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
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Last edited by HeNry2kOoL; 03-26-2005 at 11:10 PM.
Also, how should I calibrate the dual shock sensor sensitivity? How hard of a hit should trigger the warning chirps and how hard should trigger the full alarm?
You'll have to play around with the adjustment.
I arm the alarm and tap on all 4 corners of the roof with my fist. A moderate tap should trigger the warning chirps, whereas a quick hard hit should trigger the alarm.
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Edit: I've found another wiring diagram that tells me the unlock wire is dark green, so I'll give that a try tomorrow.
Sometimes wiring diagrams are wrong. Always double check with a DMM (digital multimeter) to make sure you have the correct wire.
Yep.. I finished everything on monday which was about three days ago. The dark green wire was indeed the correct wire for the door unlock. Everything is working perfectly, I just hope I've set the sensor sensitivity correctly. No false alarms yet so hopefully I didn't set it too low, but only time will tell. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.
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Alarm Installation Advice on a Gen2 Camry
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