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Old 03-29-2005, 09:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Alarm!

When shopping for an aftermarket car security solution, what all should a consumer look for? I consider myself a whiz at pretty much anything with a current, but looking at new alarm systems, I cant tell what is what.
What difference does it make if its 2, 3, or 4+ channel?
What does a valet mode do?
Ground when armed?
Starter kill?
Anti Grind?
Tach sense?
What on earth am I looking at .
I just want something that keeps my stuff from being jacked, and would like to spend less than like $100 if possible (tell me if I'm an idiot, ive never shopped for these things till this evening.) Ease of installation would be nice, along with failproof quality. the Viper 791XV was reccomended to me, and though that thing looks amazing... I mean its a Camry, comon guys. As long as I get keyless entry and intrusion detection (trunk included, glass shock if possible) I'm stoked. We're looking at a middle-of-the-road solution, not the "all bells and whistles known to man" thing. Help, anyone?
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Depends on what you want to spend. The 791xv is around 200 shipped.

Can't offer any help on installing them, never tried it before.
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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some kind of an immobilizer is a must. most alarms will kill the starter if the alarm is not deactivated before trying to start.
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm just wondering about terms and features, I just want to know what the spec sheets are saying to me.
"starter kill" must be an immobilizer then, but what the heck is everything else?
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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http://www.viper.com/security/glossary/default.asp

That might answer a few ?'s
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Old 03-30-2005, 09:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Starter kill is NOT an immobilizer kill, which is an extra feature that will prevent the car from starting if the starter kill is bypassed. This feature could be fuel cut-off or ignition cut-off. I would say about 95% of all alarms don't have the extra immobilizer kill, and most just depend on the starter kill. This is most likely due to the numerous number of remote start systems, and would take more functions to bypass the immobilizer kill.

Anti-grind is a feature that will not over-crank your starter when the car is started. Think of it as after you've started the car, crank it again, that's what the grind is.

Tach sense is for the alarm/remote start system, since it will monitor the voltage level of the tachometer (RPM, i.e., engine idling speed).

Multiple channels allow optional features to be added, such as glass sensor, motion detector, windows roll up/down, etc.

Valet mode is what it means, it allows someone to valet your car without tampering with the alarm.

Ground when armed means it's a ground output (-) when the alarm is armed. If you understood electronics, you'll know why negative trigger/output is good for switching purposes.

You're better off having someone qualified to install the alarm/remote start. The 791XV is about a 4-hr job.
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Old 03-31-2005, 02:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the glossary and Luc did help, however I still dont understand the "ground when armed." Is it like "there is a current flowing through the security device when armed, so it passes through a ground point on the body of the car" or does it have to do with monitoring current changes due to power drain from, say, an interior light or the power lock switch being used?
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^ Luc pretty much explained "ground when armed".

I'll give you some examples.

The armed responce output wire / armed output wire on the alarm outputs a negative signal (- (ground)) when the alarm is armed.

If you car has power door lock/unlock and you hookup the alarm to it. The door lock output wire on the alarm will output a negative signal (- (ground)) on this wire, when the alarm is armed.

^ Toyotas use a negative trigger for the door lock/unlock.

Theres other stuff in the car that also uses a negative trigger.

Its nothing you need to worry about, unless your hooking up the alarm yourself. In which case you should already know about positive and negative triggers.


P.S. Your not going to get a Viper alarm installed for less then $100. Their bottom of the line alarm (350HV) goes for about $200 installed.
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Last edited by 88 LE; 03-31-2005 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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hmm.. fine I wont worry about it, though I only understand slightly
yeah, I was told about that model before I named figures. Though nice, i can live without it.
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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^ If you just want protection without all the bells and whistles (paging, remote start, etc..), the 350HV is fine.

It has:

1. Starter kill/disable

2. Parking light flash

3. Door lock/unlock

4. Protects all doors + trunk

5. Dual stage shock sensor

6. Siren


It has 2 auxilary outputs, so you can add stuff on later.


http://www.directed.com/security/viper/default.asp
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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one other thing you should look for that you didn't mention is warranty and certified installation...both of which viper has, and reputation as well...it's the only system I would trust my baby with
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have installed alarms on 3 different cars. As long as you have the patience and "know-how" you shouldn't have any worries. From the way it sounds, I would get a professional but you should still know what to look for. If you are just a starter in the alwarm world then as 88 LE said just get an alarm that has the basic features he mentioned and is somewhat reputable. I would get one that has more than two or three channels though. Just in case you do get "advanced" on day and want to add more features. That's what I did with my alarm. As I said in the other thread Viper is the best but everybody doesn't have dough like that. A warranty is always good.

As far as the ground when armed feature. Its pretty simple. Lets give you an easy example. I wanted to get a motino sensor for my car since my alarm didnt come with one. I connected the postilve wire to the battery and the negative wire to the "ground when armed wire". So whenever I arm my alarm, the motion sensor will turn on. Basic electronics knowledge. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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ah! that makes sense. so the ground when armed wire acts like a ground when its armed (sounds like a "duh" to me... at least now) Heh, I was thinking that the g.w.a. wire would ground the alarm brain itself when you armed it. This makes much more sense. Lol, my first mental image totally screwed me over. This is me feeling really really dumb :P
If I were to buy an alarm online (and save like 350 bucks initially) what are the chances I can have a car audio garage put it in for me, and still get (the alarm's) factory warrantees and guarentees?
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Old 04-01-2005, 02:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMDrew812
If I were to buy an alarm online (and save like 350 bucks initially) what are the chances I can have a car audio garage put it in for me
Some shops won't install stuff that you bought somewhere else.

So ask around first.

Quote:
and still get (the alarm's) factory warrantees and guarentees?
Some manufacturers only offer a full warranty if the alarm is bought and installed by a authorized dealer.

Check with the manufacturer of the alarm for warranty specifications.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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need some help... im new on this alarm thing... i got a toyota celica 2002... this morning i noticed a like molds on the terminal of the battery... without knowing i cleaned it up by removing the terminal lug... but when i put it back it alarmed... even i put my key in the ignition still it alarmed... as of now the lugs are off... maybe a little help how to reset this thing...
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