Multi-Amp Powering Idea - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

DMDrew812 · 04-04-2005, 10:53 PM

I offer an idea I have running through my head that I was thinking of implementing when I get a few more amps (one for another sub, and another for the four speakers. probably alpine, so thats not the question.) If I were to add up the amperage of the three amplifiers (say, one amp needs a 60a fuse, and the other two need 40s) and get a fuse that handled that much, then a 60 amp fuse, and two forties, could I pull this off?
I was going to run a 1/0 ga power cable from the battery into the trunk (with my 120 amp fuse close to the battery,) where I would split that off into three 8 ga wires with three fuses, one wire and fuse for each amp. like so. Excuse the MSPaint...

Is this safe/intelligent? if, outside of the splitter/junction, one fuse were to blow, would the other two amps be in jeapordy, or would their fuses keep them safe? Ideas?

***cam2Xrunner*** · 04-04-2005, 11:08 PM

You could use a fused distribution block to make it simpler than using a distribution block and inline fuses.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISPD4MAX

That one will probably get the job done. You will have an extra output but that should be ok.

Here's another one
http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITPD404

I would use 4 gauge power wire going to each amp.

DMDrew812 · 04-04-2005, 11:30 PM

Hey, that second d-block is sexy.. oh wait it says the same thing in its description.. I mean, pretty sweet-action? So this idea isnt taboo or unsafe, i take it, since theres hardware to make something like this easier. Cool. Now, do they make inline fuse holders for 120's? Just checked that, but its ANL or Mink KF type fuses rather than the AGU one I have. Maybe a circuit breaker is a good idea for this setup, for the resistor near the battery...
Huh, I need to remember this. Thanks cam'!
What am I thinking, my math is TOTALLY off. 40+40+60 is NOT 120... *that dumb feeling*

OHWJaJae · 04-04-2005, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMDrew812

Hey, that second d-block is sexy.. oh wait it says the same thing in its description.. I mean, pretty sweet-action? So this idea isnt taboo or unsafe, i take it, since theres hardware to make something like this easier. Cool. Now, do they make inline fuse holders for 120's? Just checked that, but its ANL or Mink KF type fuses rather than the AGU one I have. Maybe a circuit breaker is a good idea for this setup, for the resistor near the battery...
Huh, I need to remember this. Thanks cam'!
What am I thinking, my math is TOTALLY off. 40+40+60 is NOT 120... *that dumb feeling*

A circuit breaker under the hood would be smart and a distroblock for the amps. Make sure you run fat enough wire. Also don't forget about your Alt... make sure it can output what you'll be using and don't forget about things like your lights and air conditioner. You may need to upgrade if you run too much.

Stealth · 04-05-2005, 12:15 AM

Have fun running 1/0 gauge. I ran 2 4 gauge instead.

DMDrew812 · 04-05-2005, 08:01 AM

Yeah, im under the impression that running a fatty 1/0 through my plastic linings will be a beesh. Oh, and yeah, I can see the alt being a problem, seeing as my headlights already dim considerably when the bass is going (300w-600w amp with matching 300w-600w sub. isnt this kinda low for that symptom?) Will a Big-3 cover/help that, or should I keep a space in my budget for a new alternator?
hooray for this thread being the latest bump before the uberspam! boo for queerbates that like spamming!

Stealth · 04-05-2005, 08:37 AM

Definately do the big 3. I have 21 ft of Clear 1/0 guage power wire I can sell you if you still want to do this. You can use that for your main power line and also use it to upgrade your factory chassis to battery ground and still have some left over.

OHWJaJae · 04-05-2005, 08:54 AM

What is your alt rated at? I think most Toyotas are 80-90amps. That's not gonna get you very far. I'd get a 175-225amp alt. If you got a Camry, Dominick Iraggi makes good alternators as the aftermarket alt support is lacking... I got one. For other cars I'd suggest looking around for a better deal.

***Knailgun*** · 04-05-2005, 09:09 AM

food for thought...do a distribution block for the groundwires as well...so as to avoid noise....you'll thank me for this one. Oh, and the circuit breaker doesn't have to be the total of all of the fuses, better if it is a bit lower...you're probably never going to trip it anyways

97avalonxls · 04-05-2005, 03:05 PM

if you do go with a distro for your fuses, make sure as not to get a fused one, you should never fuse a ground. Someone on here (i think) used copper pipe as bus bars in his ground block so that it would look symmetrical with the fused 12+ one. good luck

DMDrew812 · 04-05-2005, 04:09 PM

heh.. that sounds like it would work all right. Cool, thanks for the info fellas, I'll be doing some HW for a while designing my trunk. Now, if I only had a few hundred bucks lying around...
oh, and on a level of 1-10, one being "insert the flat end into the square thing with the button, now you've buckled in" and ten being "if the brass on this square pin touches the inside of the round ring, the world a-splode, you have three seconds," how hard is custom fiberglass molding/fabrication? is it better to use an MDF frame and boxing with like shaped foam with some kind of spray-on vinyl? I think a tricked trunk would be fun to do.

97avalonxls · 04-05-2005, 04:14 PM

from my stand point, if you have never tried FG, I would do a small project outside of the car (it doesn't even need to be kept) just to learn about mixing resin, laying mat/cloth and the like. f/ging a structure is a lot easier than making something completely free form using fleece, but it also serves very little purpose other than cosmetic (actually it does add strength and seal better too) but it won't give you the form fit.
Go for a small project and learn on that, then look at what you see for your trunk in your head, then decide about jumping in for the whole project, oh, and always, always, always when doing any work on your car.....post pics

97avalonxls · 04-05-2005, 04:17 PM

stealth you've got PM

klaymen333 · 04-07-2005, 03:05 PM

if you ran 0 gauge and then split it into 8 gauge it would make me very sad....

the whole point of running 0 gauge is to get that fatty conductor back there for free flowing juice...when you split it stick with 4 or 6 gauge...8 gauge is for 300 watt stand alone amps...imo

DMDrew812 · 04-07-2005, 03:38 PM

Eh, I'm going to be using three to four amps, when the dream is complete. To break that down..
Two Alpine MRV-T420s (each bridged @4ohms for 300rms-600max,) each powering one Alpine SWS-1242D 12in Type S sub, @4ohms-300rms, 900max. Dual sub box (custom fiberglass trunk?) The T420 uses 8ga cable with 50a fuse.
And here comes the option section... One 4ch amp or two 2ch amps?
So either two (2) Alpine MRV-T320s, @4ohms, 80rms, 200(?)max, one powering one set SPS-170As (40rms-200max @4ohm) and one doing a set of SPS-190As (50rms-250max @4ohm). 30a fuses, 8ga cables
OR
One Alpine MRV-F540, @4ohms 80rms, 200(?)max powering the 170s and the 690s. 60a fuse, 8ga cable.
The fuse ratings and wire gauge suggestions come from the owners manuals, available online.
I think four would look tighter, if I made a custom trunk display, and I would be using all four points on that dist block I have my eyes on. That allows for up to four 4ga wires to tap a 1/0ga wire.
...Huh... for fuses, 50(2)+60 or 50(2)+30(2)... My alt CAN NOT put out 160a. I know, thats overhead, you hardly ever see an amp drawing its fuse rating.. shoot.