Subwoofers.. any sudjestions..?

[Corollacrazy42]

Alright, i already posted on here once before about getting 2 Infinity 12.1's for my 2001 Camry XLE.. all i have heard about these subs are good things, but i just wanted to see what the general public here thinks is something that might be an improvement or a little better

my price range is set from about 550-750 being the max for everything..meaning box, subs, wiring, the whole SHABANG!

my intial idea was to get the 2 Infinities with the Reference 1210a amp.. 1300x1 and 2 Ohms which i would set lower to run about 400-500 watts.. but then i began hearing about different subs and good deals that might be going on, so that i could get some sweet subs for the same price, although i have heard that these subs are very good for their price.

My brother claims that putting this amp in my car would drain the shit out the battery as well as, it might do some perminent damage to the electrical system because the alternator isnt strong enough and neither is the crappy stock battery its running on.. This causes me to be a bit concerned with running this huge amp, (mainly saying this because my bro has 2 10" MTX 6500 old models, sound pretty nice and everything in his Celica, but often diff the lights a little when big bass is brought out of them), so instictively i just assume that my " MUCH MORE POWERFUL SYSTEM" could potentially cause some problems.. if anyone could fill me in on wether my curretn idea is a good one, and could help me choose a box and amp that would compliment the subs adiquately, without causing a problem with dimming or blow fuses and such..

I was reading some of the recent posts about the non-commercial subs, that could be potentially better than some commerical subs (that Camxrunner posted)

I would also like this to be insiteful rather than just a " OO THIS SUB ROCKS BUY IT", if you believe that a certain system is better than the one i currently have listed then please fill me in on specs and such that would persuade me to believe they are better, rather than just stating their better. I would like to know why the subs you have chosen are so great.

Also, i noticed many of the boxes ive been looking at have 2 terminals and are serperated chambers for each sub. I know this isnt really a problem, but in the case that im planning on getting a mono amp it is.. why are there no single terminal sub enclosures. Other wise i have to buy a two channel amp right?..

O by the way.. i talked to the Marv guy, he gave me a quote of about 115 and 30 something dollars shipping, i didnt really wanna pay this much for a box.. maybe about 75 85 tops.. if there is a remede to this problem let me know

I think that answers about all my questions.. PLZ READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE POSTING.. i want everyone to know exactly whats going on, so you can help me in the most effective way possible.

Thank you for your time, Ryan

[cam2Xrunner]

What is it that you are after, do you want to save space and go with a single high excursion sub, or do you not mind going with two or three less expensive subs? There is another guy on ECA that makes good enclosures for less than Marv, his SN is Ibanezcollector, get ahold of him for a price on an enclosure. Whatever you do stay away from prefabbed boxes. You want to have a box built that is built to the reccomended dimensions.

Keep in mind a Sealed box will typically give you better sound quality and less airspace is needed. You can get a ported enclosure, but you'll need more airspace.

[mauibuilt59]

from what i've heard, sealed boxes and ported boxes have very little sound quality differences. From what I've experienced, i would go with one ID max in a ported box....if you can afford it. about 300 for the ID max and 50 bucks for the woofer. and about 300 bucks for an amp and less than 100 for the wiring

[Knailgun]

sealed plays lower than a ported...sealed tends to be a smaller enclosure, and sealed uses power less efficiently than a ported....this is provided you have a sub that works in both enclosures and are comparing them

[Ostornadoe]

It has two terminals in the box because you have two subs. you can just splice them together after the terminal. Or just run them both into the amp. It'll work either way. If you have a lot of bass going, then yes, you will screw up your alternator in the long run. The battery only matters if you are going to be playing your music with the car off. I would recommend atleast a BIG 3 upgrade, possibly a High Output Alternator, and a new battery, depending on what you want it for and how much you want to spend. As long as you have the amp wired correctly and fuse it near the battery, I don't see you having any problems with any of the cars other electrical systems.

[OHWJaJae]

Originally Posted by Ostornadoe

The battery only matters if you are going to be playing your music with the car off.

Not true...

[Corollacrazy42]

ok well i failed to add that im not looking for spl so much.. more along the lines of a SQ sub or subs.. and yea i rather have 2 cheaper subs then one.. reason im saying this is because i can get the Infinities for cheap o i thought i would get in on that if they were good in your guys opinion as well..

oo and cam2xrunner, i was planning on having the box be a small one because the Infiinities i was going to get only require 1ft cubic space for each.. ill talk to that guy and see what he says.. As for the box itsself i was getting a sealed anyways.. i dont much like the ported, it looks goofy in my opinion, going on the fact that many have chrome ports lol

O and about the terminals... i know you can run the amp one channel or two channel no problem but you would have to cut through the center and hook it up to one side to run off one terminal.. making the box.. not so sealed anymore lol... and yea i think i might try that big 3 see how it works..

but i still am confused about what subs i should get in general..or amp fill me in guys

[OHWJaJae]

Have you heard Eclipse Titaniums?
I'm trying to think of brands that would be found at a shop near you.

Are you buying online or from a shop?

[cam2Xrunner]

I'd go with two ID12V3's or two Ascendant Audio Atlas's.

[Corollacrazy42]

im probably gonna buy online.. shops charge way too much

[cam2Xrunner]

http://www.zedaudio.com/products.html#Minilith 200 plus shipping

with

2 of these
http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID10V3D4 260 shipped

Marv box, and Knukonceptz wiring 200 or so inc. shipping

100 dollars under your budget, and excellent sound quality, while having the ability to get loud. The 12V3D4's are on factory backorder, so I rec. the 10's

[Pb]

I almost always go with a sealed enclosure. Sealed enclosures are generally smaller in size and have tighter, cleaner bass. But a ported enclosure will be louder. Plus a sealed enclosure is easier on the suspension of your sub; the back pressure will prevent the suspension from bottoming-out as quickly.

And don't worry about giving each sub it's own sealed enclosure. It doesn't hurt to drill through the internal dividers between the subs. Subs can share the same air space in a single box. I only add dividers between the subs if the box needs the structural support; otherwise the divider is just taking up precious air space inside the box.

[rddrgn1]

first off i wouldn't recommend a particular sub, because the all sound a (VERY) little different, and you will get as many different opinions as people you ask, other than to say that i run a 1500 watt system with 2 mtx6500's and it's balanced for best sound, not most volume, and i, and every one else that listens to it, think it sounds awesome. on the electrical part of it, tho, if you don't want yer headlites to dim to the music, you definately need to upgrade yer electrical system. a rule of thumb is; you need an alternater that puts out at least as much as yer system power. i don't EVER max mine (i can't afford to replace stuff for foolishness) but say i run mine at 1300 watts, divided by 13 volts, that's 100 amps continuous, so yer alternater needs to put at least that much. my lights used to dance to till i upgraded to a 110 amp alternater (no small trick in a '67 lincoln). AND you need to put in a "stiffening capacitor" on the power input to your sub amp. that supplies the extra draw that a hard hit on your sub needs so that it doesn't draw down the rest of your system, with the added benifit of making the sound crisper. typically, you need 1 farad of capacitor per 1000 watts of sub amp (.5 farad for 500w, and so on). also, an extra battery IS a good idea, as it gives you an extra "well" to draw from under high output. (i have 3 - 1 under the hood and 2 in the trunk, but i drive a car approximately the size of some peoples apartments) you can get one of those fancy spiral wrapped batteries that everybody thinks are so cool, because you can mount it anywhere, sideways, upside down, whatever, but i use napa group 31S industrial batterys because they have stainless steel screw posts rather than lead, which has more of a tendency to corrode, plus they're just tough as nails.if any of this confuses you write back or talk to a GOOD auto stereo shop, most of 'em will be as helpful as they can be, 'cause if you like them you'll come back :-) one more thing - this doesn't all have to be done right away, but if you want the best sound yer system can deliver, put it in the "big future plans" file.