I would do the rear doors too, even if you're not putting speakers in there. I pretty much do everything when I do a car. Gut it completely and go to town.
This is for an all out install(some say it's overkill, I say it can't hurt)
Using v1.se or raammat60 bxt
For the front doors- On the outer doorskin, do at least two full layers. In the middle part of the door and behind the midbass do 3 layers. If you want to go all out, do two layers of V3 liquid deadener on top of the mat.
On top of the edead use one layer of sound barrier. There is a couple of different options here. You can go with Ensolite foam from Rick(raamaudio). You can use Dynamt extremeliner or something similar, or carpet juke padding(only on floor of car though, don't wan't it in the doors because it will hold moisture), like from home depot. Not as effective as the extremeliner but alot cheaper.
Just found this, looks good for the price.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-318
Directly behind the midbass mount
Cascade Deflex Pads to the door. These are specially designed to prevent speaker cone break-up due to standing waves and enclosure resonances.
To get the ensolite/barrier foam to stick to the matting use 3M super 77 spray glue. Also use this for the deflex pad.
Once you have the outer door skin mattes, sound barriered and deflex pads installed(last parts kind of optional, but it can't hurt) it's time to seal off the big holes that allowed access to mat the door. Doing this will turn your door into a pseudo enclosure. AKA infinite baffle.
To do this you should get a piece of tin or aluminum and cut it to the shape of the opening. Place the tin on top of the inner door skin and mat over that. Make sure that there is a layer of mat between the door and the aluminum before laying mat over the whole thing. If you can get the peice of metal mounted inside of the door, that would be better(bend it, stick it in then unbend and seal with mat. But on top should be ok too.
On the inner door panel, I use at least two layers of matting on that, basically make your door look something like this afterwards
For mounting the speaker to the door make a trim ring out of MDF. Between the MDF and the door you will want to use some type of diffuser. You can use rubber weatherstripping or even double sided 3m tape, or use some of the
acoustic dampening foam
I also plan on deadening my door panels themselves using Edead V.3 liquid deadener. Basically take the door panel off and tape any area you don't want deadener to get to(like the window switch or mounting clips) Paint a good 2 layers onto the panel.
Now between the panel and the door you want to use a layer of ensolite or that other stuff I linked. This will do two things- Act as a buffer to stop the door panel from rattling, and it also will help block out road noise.
Once you have the foam applied to the door using the 3M spray glue you will be ready to mount the door panel(after you installed your speakers of course)
On the back doors I do the same thing but not as much matting. Maybe 2 layers max, atleast 1 good layer. 1 layer of sound barrier foam, then mat inner door skin with one0two layers of mat, and a layer of sound barrier foam between door and panel. Use edead v3 on panel too. It helps.
For the back wall do at least two layers on matting, with a layer of sound barrier foam between back wall and panel(edead v3'd
)
For the roof, do 1-2 layers of mat and layer of sound barrier foam. No need for edead v3 on the headliner.
For the floor do at least two layer's, 3 if you feel or hear resonance from floor(use a rubber malet) You can use any type of sound barrier here. I'd use extremeliner in this situation if possible, because the floor is where alot of the road noise comes from, but any of those barriers will work fine. If using Ensolite foam, do two layers(that stuffs only 1/8" thick)
Try to get up into the firewall as far as you can go with the matting and the sound barrier.
Have fun
duh...need it def. for the subs) you should use atleast 2 layers for the floor and trunk, doors are optional, i think 1 layer should be sufficient, but again, it won't hurt to add a 2nd layer on the doors.
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