Amp Install Done! PICS - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Anshu · 04-30-2005, 11:41 PM

Got the amp install done, kinda proud of myself

remember telling the dudes at my audio shop "ill never consider installing an amp myself"
but its done, sounds good. havent had a chance to fully test her out due to neighbors and suck ass weather. Took much longer then i expected. The right door panel still doesnt sit properly but ill have to look at it later.
pics
project plan

And then the actual install
I know its not the cleanest ever. but i had to deal with the prospect of having one seat up and the other down or what not so the connections had to be loose

Want to say thanks to all the dudes on the board here who helped me out. Big shout outs to MrSo0h0o and Cam2Xrunner.
Post Away

MrSo0h0o · 05-01-2005, 12:33 AM

no doubt man.. glad u figured out that rubber surround thingy

hopefully i can finish my install up soon!

***cam2Xrunner*** · 05-01-2005, 01:48 AM

Cool

I like how you made that, pretty cool.

DrtySthV6SE · 05-01-2005, 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anshu

Got the amp install done, kinda proud of myself

remember telling the dudes at my audio shop "ill never consider installing an amp myself"

yeah dude its not that hard, looks good and i like the diagram

whats wrong with your door panel??

Pb · 05-01-2005, 02:44 AM

I could be wrong, but It looks like one of your power wires is heavier guage than the other. They should be the same size. By making your ground wire smaller than the positive wire you are reducing the current carrying capacity of the positive wire. It's a little difficult to explain, but both wires should be the same guage. Current does not necessarily travel through the positive wire first.

Some people put more importance on the positive wire than they do to the negative wire, but this isn't wise. "A chain is only as strong as its weakest link". You should make your negative wire connections just as clean as the possitive connections. Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Ground to a good solid bolt and scrape away any paint on the sheet metal where the connector touches. I like using one of the seat mounting bolts or seatbelt bolts.

And when doing any king of wiring, disconnect the negative cable on the battery, or leave the fuses out of the positive wire fuse holder. Finish all of your wiring, then replace the fuses and ground wire. Doing it right might save you from a fireworks and smoke show.

Also, watch the polarity on your speaker wires. Hooking the positive wire up to the negative pole on your speaker will still produce sound from the speaker, but it will kill your bass. Think of a speaker as a small electric motor. You want all of your motors spinning the same direction.

And nylon wire ties (aka zip ties) can really help clean up your excess wires. Zip ties and wire loom can do wonders!

Just a little advice.

Anshu · 05-01-2005, 11:58 AM

interesting. the only power wire that isnt 8ga on the 2 amps is the new one and its 4 ga. Anything wrong with that, i didnt think there was.
knu konceptz wire has + and - printed on the correct side of the wire all the way down so nothing wrong there.
ran out yesterday morning before i finished for a 100 pack of zip ties

Anshu · 05-01-2005, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrtySthV6SE

yeah dude its not that hard, looks good and i like the diagram

whats wrong with your door panel??

I know, but still i was woah im not stupid
the right doorpanel isnt meeting up to the door very well. its not sealing very well. Works for now ill grap pics if anyone wants em. Ill have to remount the crossover later, the "pros" didnt do a very good job which is what i think preventing the good matching up

Pb · 05-01-2005, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anshu

interesting. the only power wire that isnt 8ga on the 2 amps is the new one and its 4 ga. Anything wrong with that, i didnt think there was.

No, there's nothing wrong with that, as long as your amps don't require any more current higher than what a 8 guage can handle. You can only flow as much current through the positive wire as you can through the negative wire. The smaller wire will restrict the larger wire. So that big 4 guage wire running to the amp won't help anymore than if you ran a 8 guage. Comprende?

8 guage looks big enough for the amps you're running though.

On most multiple amp setups I will run 4 guage from the battery (with a fuse at the battery, within 18") to the fuse/distribution block in the trunk, and then run 8 gauge off of each 'leg' of the fuse block, to each amplifier.

Anshu · 05-01-2005, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pb2theMax

No, there's nothing wrong with that, as long as your amps don't require any more current higher than what a 8 guage can handle. You can only flow as much current through the positive wire as you can through the negative wire. The smaller wire will restrict the larger wire. So that big 4 guage wire running to the amp won't help anymore than if you ran a 8 guage. Comprende?

8 guage looks big enough for the amps you're running though.

On most multiple amp setups I will run 4 guage from the battery (with a fuse at the battery, within 18") to the fuse/distribution block in the trunk, and then run 8 gauge off of each 'leg' of the fuse block, to each amplifier.

word
that setup is exactly what i have, 4ga with a 80a fuse, then fused distro block 2x30 and 8ga to each amp
looks like we are on the same page

Pb · 05-01-2005, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anshu

I know, but still i was woah im not stupid
the right doorpanel isnt meeting up to the door very well. its not sealing very well. Works for now ill grap pics if anyone wants em. Ill have to remount the crossover later, the "pros" didnt do a very good job which is what i think preventing the good matching up

You could try remounting the x-over inside the door skin with some double sided sticky tape, instead of between the sheet metal and the door panel. If it isn't the crossover then it could be the compression clips that hold most door panels to the sheet metal at the bottom. I bet that one of the clips is bent over and is not going into the hole in the sheet metal, and is making the door panel stick out a little bit.

Pb · 05-01-2005, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anshu

word
that setup is exactly what i have, 4ga with a 80a fuse, then fused distro block 2x30 and 8ga to each amp
looks like we are on the same page

Oh, from the pic it looked like 4 ga was running right to the amp.

And 80 amp is a pretty heavy duty fuse for the size of amps you're running. 60 would be a little safer, but it's not a big deal.

The purpose of the main fuse at the battery is not to protect your amps, (that is the purpose of the fuse block in the trunk) but to protect your wiring between the battery and trunk. If your main power wire gets chafed or cut and it touches bare metal then your main fuse should blow. You don't want that fuse to be any stronger than it has to be or you could cause some melting or fire. This is why I hate it when people don't properly run the power wire through a 'grommeted' hole in the firewall. I also hate when people run the power wire through the door and hood jamb to get to the battery. That's 'hillbilly', and not very safe.

dna59 · 05-02-2005, 11:18 AM

Isn't that diagram off of crutchfields site? I think I caN recall seeing it on there. Or did you just use that and swap in your equipment you used?

Anshu · 05-02-2005, 06:09 PM

thats where i got my insipirtation

***Knailgun*** · 05-03-2005, 09:36 AM

I like it...simple and effective

pk_kk · 05-03-2005, 04:46 PM

wow, that diagram makes it look too easy lol.! It took me about 2 days to install everything speackers amp sub deck and to tune my system. I took my car apart to run all these wires.