Alright, before anyone jumps and says something like "check your connections, fuses, wires, ground, etc.", I've gone through the car several times with a multimeter to double check that all wires are in working order and conducting properly. That being said, here's the problem I'm having.
A while ago, I was just driving around town, and realized that my sound system had just stopped working. I have two amplifiers, one is a 2-channel amp powering my components up front and the other is a Mono D amp powering my two subs in the rear. Both are being powered by a thick 4 gauge wire which goes to a 2 fuse distributor and splits off to power each amp via 8 gauge wire and finally grounds out with 8 gauge wires.
I find out that neither amps are turning on, although my head unit and the rear speakers (which are not powered by any external amps) works fine. Again, I've checked the remote control wire to see that it conducts. Also, the remote control wire is tapped into my power antenna, and the antenna works fine too.
So, here's where the weird part comes in. After a few days of not working, the system magically starts up again (both amps turn on again). This works great for a week, but then it craps out again. Neither amp has turned on since then. Both amps have failed, restarted, and failed again simultaneously, which baffles my mind.
Again, I've checked fuses (all of them), I've checked wires and their connections (and ability to conduct electricity), and I've checked the grounds, all with a multimeter. One thing I did notice was that when I tested the power in and ground out of each amp, I found that the voltage difference was only about 1V, although I thought it should be 12V. Testing the voltage difference between my chasse and the main power wire at the distributor showed about 10.8-12V (which is about right when the car is off). I was thinking that the amps may have both short circuited (although I don't see how they would both do it at the same time, revive, and short circuit again). However, if the amps were truly short circuited, then I figured that my car's battery would have drained already considering there's a complete circuit going from the positive of my battery to the negative of my car's chasse, so I've pretty much ruled that out.
My last resort will be to take my amps to some place like Circuit City to get them bench tested, but I'm willing to bet that at least one person on this board has the solution to this problem. So does anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong?
I once had a frayed wire on my sub that arc'd and cause the amp to overheat and shut off. I accidently noticed the blue arcing only because it was dark outside when I was messing around with sub.
On another occassion, I swaped a fuse in the distrib block which visually looked fine to solve a dead amp problem. What prompted me to swap the fuse was because I noticed there was pwr before the fuse, but oddly nothing after the fuse.
Otherwise, I don't have a clue what could be the cause of your problem. G/L.
Your amps are fine. You're not getting enough voltage to turn on the amps. What is your voltage at the battery when the car is (1) running and (2) off? I'm assuming you have a Gen3/3.5 using an OEM radio, since you tap the turn-on wire to the antenna turn-on. Did you use a relay to power the remote turn-on wires? Do you have an aftermarket radio? Provide more information about your equipment, since it's useless for anyone to guess what you have and provide a plausible resolution.
I once had a frayed wire on my sub that arc'd and cause the amp to overheat and shut off. I accidently noticed the blue arcing only because it was dark outside when I was messing around with sub.
On another occassion, I swaped a fuse in the distrib block which visually looked fine to solve a dead amp problem. What prompted me to swap the fuse was because I noticed there was pwr before the fuse, but oddly nothing after the fuse.
Otherwise, I don't have a clue what could be the cause of your problem. G/L.
Hmm well as for the fuses, they don't just visually look fine, they actually work too since they're able to form a complete circuit with a multimeter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luc
Your amps are fine. You're not getting enough voltage to turn on the amps. What is your voltage at the battery when the car is (1) running and (2) off? I'm assuming you have a Gen3/3.5 using an OEM radio, since you tap the turn-on wire to the antenna turn-on. Did you use a relay to power the remote turn-on wires? Do you have an aftermarket radio? Provide more information about your equipment, since it's useless for anyone to guess what you have and provide a plausible resolution.
I have a Gen 3 1994 Camry LE. I believe that when the car is off, the voltage is about 10.8V. With the car on, it's 11.4V. Somewhere around there.
My headunit is a Kenwood KDC-MP8017 MP3 player from a few years back. Works like a champ and has never failed on me. My 2-channel amp is a Kenwood KAC-729S 600W protected by one fuse. My Mono D block is a Kenwood Excelon KAC-X811D 1600W protected by 3 fuses. My components are Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR61P. Finally, my 2 subwoofers are 12" Infinity Reference 1230W's. Here is a link to a thread with pics. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t61045.html
The reason I didn't bring up what parts I have is because usually people are going to end up saying something like "oh your system is built from crap parts, so therefore it's crap. Buy new parts." which doesn't really help me at all.
Hmm well as for the fuses, they don't just visually look fine, they actually work too since they're able to form a complete circuit with a multimeter.
I have a Gen 3 1994 Camry LE. I believe that when the car is off, the voltage is about 10.8V. With the car on, it's 11.4V. Somewhere around there.
My headunit is a Kenwood KDC-MP8017 MP3 player from a few years back. Works like a champ and has never failed on me. My 2-channel amp is a Kenwood KAC-729S 600W protected by one fuse. My Mono D block is a Kenwood Excelon KAC-X811D 1600W protected by 3 fuses. My components are Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR61P. Finally, my 2 subwoofers are 12" Infinity Reference 1230W's. Here is a link to a thread with pics. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t61045.html
The reason I didn't bring up what parts I have is because usually people are going to end up saying something like "oh your system is built from crap parts, so therefore it's crap. Buy new parts." which doesn't really help me at all.
I don't think anyone would have said that, stuff's not bad either.
You should be getting 12 volts when the car isn't running and 13.8-14.4 volts while it's running, that might be the problem. Maybe it's time for a new alternator and battery.
I don't think anyone would have said that, stuff's not bad either.
You should be getting 12 volts when the car isn't running and 13.8-14.4 volts while it's running, that might be the problem. Maybe it's time for a new alternator and battery.
yep, what he said.
And to add, why do you have the Remote turn on connected to the power antena? The power antena should only have power when the radio is on, there for, you wont get a 12v signal to it when the CD player is on. I would switch to a real 12v switched signal, like either the subwoofer turn on wire that should be on the deck, or something like the cigerette lighter.
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No your stuff is definatly not bad by any means.. but i can't think of why this would be happening unless infact the circuit is getting broken somewhere. Or possibly that your battery isnt putting out what it needs to for this amount.. oo and maybe its your alternator taking a crap on you after this harsh punishment.. that could acctually be it considering all of the power it is drawing from your battery alternator and such things. Also considering the fact that you have checked all the wires fuses and other electroical things, but not the alternator, this could be the cause..?.. just guessing but this seems like the only lodgical answer.. or your amps might possibly be short cicuited, but that wouldnt explain why it worked once again later on.. so im gonna stick with my alternator answer..
I don't think anyone would have said that, stuff's not bad either.
You should be getting 12 volts when the car isn't running and 13.8-14.4 volts while it's running, that might be the problem. Maybe it's time for a new alternator and battery.
Hmm I haven't looked into that. As for the hating on the parts, I've read through many threads on this forum that have always bashed on Kenwoods for some reason. "they suck", "you could get better", etc.
Which one do you think is more likely the culprit? The alternator or the battery? My battery isn't too old (only a couple years maybe), although it's nothing fancy like an Optima Yellowtop. I think I bought it from Sears or something.
do your amps turn on when you put the radio on...if yes, then tommy is right...you need to hook up the wire to the correct turn on lead from the head unit. I remember my system shutting down after playing it for awhile, I found out that the voltage on my battery (car off) was only 12V. A fully charged battery should read 12.8V when the car is off. This might be your problem. Car on is should read at least 13.8V at the battery
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Iraggi Alt ->SVR ->Eclipse ->Tru Technology ->DLS / Image Dynamics / Marv Enclosure / Rammat
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For Sale: Adire Audio Sadhara Sub System, Bryston SP1 Video Switcher, Totem acoustics speakers
And to add, why do you have the Remote turn on connected to the power antena? The power antena should only have power when the radio is on, there for, you wont get a 12v signal to it when the CD player is on. I would switch to a real 12v switched signal, like either the subwoofer turn on wire that should be on the deck, or something like the cigerette lighter.
My head unit doesn't distinguish sending power to the antenna whether or not it's in radio or CD mode. Really, it's a pain in the arse because my antenna always goes up when I play a CD (and I never play the radio). I was going to hook a switch in line with that particular wire later this summer as a small project so that I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore. I don't believe my head unit has a dedicated 12v subwoofer turn on wire. Also, my cigarette lighter wiring isn't in the best of conditions and the light around the lighter won't even turn on most of the time (even though the bulb is fine).
do your amps turn on when you put the radio on...if yes, then tommy is right...you need to hook up the wire to the correct turn on lead from the head unit. I remember my system shutting down after playing it for awhile, I found out that the voltage on my battery (car off) was only 12V. A fully charged battery should read 12.8V when the car is off. This might be your problem. Car on is should read at least 13.8V at the battery
No, they don't. This particular setup (by that, I mean wiring, etc.) has worked for about 9 months without any issues.
chances are its your battery/alternator. Your amps need at least 12volt, some dont even produce their rated power till 14.8volts, so go get them checked. Any parts store will check the alternator and battery for free, trick is, you have to take the alternator out for them to test it.
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My garage
1991 Nissan Maxima SE V6 5SPD - daily beater - Sold
1988 VW GTI 1.8l 16v - weekend beater - Blown engine
2005 Elantra GT sedan 5spd - Woo, no more beatup cars!
Nothing inside the head unit is gonna be the culprit? like, the fact that the 12v out is divided among 2 12v remote in's? I've never considered this so I dont know if it is possible that's a problem.
That, and slightly off topic, but is there a way to wire up an amplifier somewhere other than a car, using something other than a car battery? for example, if I wanted to use it on my shelf stereo, and use a DC adapter or something? i mean what does best buy use to test their shxx in the store?
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'94 Camry
Full Alpine Type S system w/CDA-9847 HU & MRV-T420 amp (the amp is for sale ~$100)
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Serious issue with my system. Help please!!!
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