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Old 06-14-2005, 12:45 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Its not a 4ohm sub, its a dual 4 ohm sub, you wire them in parallel and you get a 2 ohm load.
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Old 06-14-2005, 12:48 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax3208
cam2xrunner do u know if the seas speakers and the tweeter are sold on madisound.com in pairs or is that the price for one
They are sold Individually.
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Old 06-14-2005, 04:24 PM   #63 (permalink)
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are thos e seas speakers much better than any of the mainstream stuff, particularly speakers sold on sounddomain.com, i trust them and i would rather have speakers with a more reliable backround,
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Old 06-14-2005, 04:38 PM   #64 (permalink)
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The only thing on Sounddomain that I would rec. as far as components go are the Image Dynamics Chameleons, but they are expensive.

For the price of the Seas/LPG combo you are going to be very hard pressed to find anything better.

You can go with the Alpine Type-X SPX-177R, but they are going to cost more, and will be a downgrade.

As far as a "reliable background" Seas has been making some of the best speakers since 1950

http://www.seas.no/about_seas___part_1.htm

Some of the most expensive home audio cabinet speakers use Seas speakers. They are known as THE reference speaker.
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Old 06-14-2005, 04:43 PM   #65 (permalink)
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i am just not very sure of hooking everything up, i dont really understand how the two amps the sub and the speakers and tweeter will hook up
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:31 PM   #66 (permalink)
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It can be a little complicated at first, but after you read it through and understand it, it will be well worth it.

Wiring speakers actively can make a great difference in sound quality.

Basically take the front channels of the amp and wire a tweeter to each channel(one left/one right). On the amps onboard crossovers, for the front channels you will set the crossover to Highpass on. There will be a dial where you can adjust where you want this crossover to start blocking the low frequencies. For the LPG tweets you would want the crossover set to around 3K Hz. The D5 amp has what's called a 10X multiplier, you will switch this on,then set the frequency dial to about 8:00 o'clock(picture an analog clock) (this is about 3kz)

For the mids you would wire these off the rear channels of the amp and set the crossover to bandpass. Set the HP filter somewhere around 60-90hz,, and the low pass filter set between 1.5 KHZ and 3.0khz. Do not turn on the 10X multiplier. The dial on the HP filter should be set around 7:30 (once again picture a clock) which would be anywhere from 15 hz to 163 hz, you want it somewhere inbetween and the LP filter dial should be set around 2:30 to 4:30 (experiment) Between 1.5K hz and 3k HZ, see what sounds best in you install.


On the amp where it says CH 3/4 input select you will push that in, so it will be using the CH 1/2 inputs.

On the Aux output you will leave that button pushed out. Then make adjustments on the other amp.


http://www.diamondaudio.com/products...0.4-030403.pdf
Owners manual for that amp, this link will show you the crossover and adjustment dials, so you know what I'm talking about.


Now for the sub amp, on the 4 channel amp(speaker amp) there will be an rca preout, you will use this preout to send the signal to the sub amp(2 ch. amp bridged) using RCA cables(I rec. Knukonceptz Krystal cable

http://www.diamondaudio.com/products...AB%20Final.pdf

^Manual for the 2 channel D3 amp.

Page 5 of that PDF will show you how to wire the two channels to make one bridged channel, but basically it is the left channels negative and the right channels positive used. This will bridge the amp giving you 400 watts rms.

You will set the crossover to low pass, and you will want that adusted to around 50-90 hz, see what sounds best to your ears.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:35 PM   #67 (permalink)
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wow thats alot to take in. once i get everything i will prolly get a better understanding of what u are talking about.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:42 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Yes, it is a little bit, but it should be pretty easy when the time for installation comes around, if you follow those directions.

And if you can afford the D5-600.4 amp it'll be worth it for the more power.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW


But the D5300.4 will be enough.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:44 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Also if you ever upgrade to a nicer headunit you will have alot more control over time alignement than a regular set of components using passive crossovers instead of wiring it active.
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:24 AM   #70 (permalink)
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if i get the d3 and d5 amp will they both need to be 4 channels. the d3 is for the sub and the d5 is for the speakers and tweeters and it hooks up to the head unit and it is bridged to the other amp which will just be for the sub and being connected to the other amp. i thought that the component amp was a 4 channel and the sub amp was a 2 channel
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tokico struts, whitline sway bar, ractive strut bar, weapon r intake, alpine cda9855( it was a 9821), idq 15, d5 300, d3 400, (seas 7" woofers, lpg tweets), and prolly the only cam with a cb radio
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Old 06-24-2005, 02:45 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Correct. Use the 2 channel for the sub and the 4 channel for the amp.

Definitely get the D5 amp for the components, unless you can confirm that the D3 amp has a bandpass feature on it's crossover.

If it does then either one will work great. But I have a feeling the D3 amp doesn't have that feature(which you need for the mids)
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