Need helpw/ picking the right amplifier - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

gord516 · 06-15-2005, 02:20 PM

Hello. I am new to Audio and i need helping picking the right amplifier because the ohms/power handling comparing with amp and sub is very confusing to me.

I do not have a budget, but i am planning on getting a
L72 Kicker
Size: 12 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.88 - 2.00 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.75 - 3.25 cu.ft.
Free Air Usage: not recommended
Sensitivity: 87.4 dB
Frequency Response: 20-100 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 750W
Peak Power Handling: 1500W
Impedance: dual 2 ohms subwoofer wiring options

Now i learned that 50 rms= 100 watts

Now, when it says Impedance: dual 2 ohms..... does that mean if the amp specs say:
RMS Power: 1200W x 1 @ 1 ohm
it will push out
600W x 1 @ 2 ohms
and that would work for this dual 2 ohm subwoofer.... also- does it mean that the amp will totally feed it RMS: 1200 W or RMS: 600 W, and is this good enough for the sub-
which peaks at 1500W?

wait... does this mean that the 1200W x 1 @ 1 ohm will produce 2400 watts? and that would burn the coils of the subwoofer?.

ok. i just need help. What will a dual 2 ohm take... a specific amp? or any amp, but must produce enough for sub.

also: what is too much- like overkill. if the sub peaks at 1500W,
that means 650W RMS x 2 ohm? and thats 1500 Watt total for a rms 325w x 1 ohm...amp? haha

ok please help a nubb

ALSO: i have right now a new alpine 9853, and a premium stock jbl speaker system in an 02 solara... Do i get mono or 2 channel... do i needa amp to work with the speakers as well, or dedicate to sub? AND- ported or sealed... and i listen to rap... have a big trunk..

-Michael.

OHWJaJae · 06-15-2005, 02:56 PM

50 RMS does not equal 100 watts. 50 RMS = 50 watts. RMS is the wattage a speaker is supposed to be able to handle all day long without blowing up. Max wattage is what the speaker can handle just before it's pretty much guaranteed to blow up (Most won't even reach that limit).

Since it's dual 2 ohm, that means when you wire it in parallel you'll get a 1 ohm load or in series a 4 ohm load. You need an amp that can drive about 750RMS into one of those two loads. Ignore wattage, it's just there to put on the box and make the kiddies orgasm... just look at the RMS rating and the impedence for now.

Overkill is sending your speaker constantly more than the RMS rating. That sub can handle slightly more than it's RMS rating I believe, but there really isn't a need. It's fine to get an amp that can produce more power than the sub is rated, you'll just have to turn down the power output by setting your gains so you don't damage your speaker.

You can go ported or sealed with that sub, sealed for better SQ, ported for loudness. You'd probably want to go ported with the music you listen to. I'd get a dedicated amp for that sub. You wouldn't want to amp your stock speakers anyway.

You could get that speaker in dual 4 ohm coils as well which would allow you to get a 2 ohm load. So basically pick out an amp that can send it enough power and then choose the speaker to accomodate.

***cam2Xrunner*** · 06-15-2005, 02:57 PM

OK it looks like you are using Sounddomain. To figure out how ohm configurations work, click on the subwoofer wiring guide. That will tell you how to wire them and what ohm load you will get.

If you were to get a dual 2 ohm subwoofer you can wire it so the amp will see either a 1 ohm load or a 4 ohm load.

If you were to use a dual 4 ohm sub, you can wire it to see only a 2 ohm load.

Now you are going to want to use an amp that does 750 watts rms at either 1, 2 or 4 ohms, depending on which sub you get.

The cheapest way to do it will be to get a class D monoblock amp that will do 700-800 watts rms at 1 ohm.

What's the actual budget that you would like to stay under? DOn't say no budget, because there are 10,000 dollar amps out there and I'm sure you don't want a 10k dollar amp