So after asking about my voltage\dimming problems here , I decided to do the Big 3. $22 dollars worth of 4gauge and a few hours later it was complete. I was happy...until I went to test. I knew something was wrong when the system first came on and I put it up; the lights were still dimming.
I took it to an empty parking lot and tested the voltages at the amps again. 13.8v with the system off...used to be 14v. I knew what was coming, so I turned it up and watched the voltage fluctuate from 13.7 to 12.5 like usual.
So what the hell, how did everything end up worse? I have to be missing something, but I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly..
1. Alternator (Under the grey cap) to battery positive
2. Engine Block to Chasis
3. Battery negative to chasis
Engine block and battery negative both share the same screw, with the paint scraped away.
Theres no fuse between the alternator and battery positive, but that can't be what's causing the problem.
What else could it be? My amps are only set to push a maximum of 450w when at full volume, so I really shouldn't be having the dimming\voltage issues so low. If it's any help, the amps in question are a JBL BP600.1 (600w RMS\running 400w) and a Cadence Z8000 (2x175 RMS\running 50w).
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Alts are expensive I was quoted for $290 for a 140amp alt, which is pretty damn expensive. My alternator isn't bad, but it should be able to handle 450w when its an 80 amp alt. Plus, a lot of other people have commented that their systems run fine at 450w. I have to be missing something, I just don't know what.
The biggest thing is why did the idle voltage drop after the big 3 upgrade? The old wires were like 12gauge, 4gauge was a huge improvement and if anything it should have stayed the same
Essentially with more copper between your alternator and battery and ground, the voltage will drop sooner than the stock cables, in spite of the theoretically larger pipeline. Yes, even though its the same alt, the same batt, the same system. Think of it like the distance between the amp and the sub. As the distance increases, the signal loss also increases.
Power companies deal with this idle power loss on a large scale given the distance between the plant and the end user.
(gurus, tell me if I'm off base here)
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'94 Camry
Full Alpine Type S system w/CDA-9847 HU & MRV-T420 amp (the amp is for sale ~$100)
Have your alternator tested to see if it's charging the battery as it should. Also check your battery to see if it's taking and holding a charge properly. You should also check for belt slippage to the alternator. If none of the above applies, see if you can find a 130 amp alternator at a salvage yard and swap it out. If you can find one at salvage yard, it will save you a ton of cash. I'm not a guru, but I think Drew is on the right track. The smaller guage wire may have been "starving" the amps. Now that you have a larger set of wires, they are now able to draw more power from the system.
i got a qoute from www.excessiveamperage.com and it quote for $305 for a 180 amp alt for my 98 i4 camry. imma buy it later. the alt comes powdered coated i think
Something about toyotas and voltage, I swear. I did the big 3 on mine, I was running PPI amps 600x1 and 50x4, and I was still getting dimming. There alts are weak.
You are running close to 1000 watts from your two amps, and those amps are power hungry, so the big 3 will not solve your problem. You definitely need to get a HO alt, min 180amps, buy this next. Battery down the road.
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i got a qoute from www.excessiveamperage.com and it quote for $305 for a 180 amp alt for my 98 i4 camry. imma buy it later. the alt comes powdered coated i think
You might want to look into an Iraggi Alt group buy on a car audio forum somewhere. I believe there was one that was going on...perhaps, it's past, but it might be worth your time to check.
You might want to look into an Iraggi Alt group buy on a car audio forum somewhere. I believe there was one that was going on...perhaps, it's past, but it might be worth your time to check.
i think it ended but im not ready to but now, something happen so not yet
A new battery should be on the top of your list. We deal with voltage problems daily at our shop. The new generation of batteries out now really make a difference. A cheap deep cycle can actually cause more problems, look into an Optima yellow top or one of the new Stinger batteries. Both have high current out and they charge much faster than your typical lead acid battery. They are sealed so you can mount them just about anywhere. On big systems we typically mount a second battery in the trunk as close as possible to the amp. Of course in some cases a 1fd cap can help, but the battery usually seals the deal. Good Luck!
Battery should be on the top list ONLY when the car is off while playing music. When the car is running, the alternator is supplying the current, the battery is only a rectifier. So changing the battery won't solve his problem. You can add 10 batteries or capacitors and it still won't help if the alternator can't charge sufficiently.
FYI, there's a reason why the Optima Yellow Top only has a 18-month warranty, mine just died after almost 5 years, so it's not "bulletproof." It doesn't hold a charge anymore, and I've tested my car to make sure there was no short that was draining it.
Yes if the altenator is bad it won't charge batteries, but if it is ok a new battery can really help. I replaced my AC Delco in my full size pu with a new Stinger battery and not only did it fix my dimming lights it made my sub amp punchier. I have replaced batteries with the same success in just about all makes and models, they do help, now if the system is just too big, a second battery is the way to go. We never relplace alternators unless they are bad, just upgrade to a better battery. If you look at the specs on the new generation of car audio batteries, they have a lower internal resistance which allows them to charge and discharge quicker, also less draw on the alt. to keep it charged. If you have had poor luck with Optima look into the Stinger line. I have 2 yellow tops in my bass boat that are 51/2 years old and still run all day. Optima batteries have been tested to 350 full cycle charges, from dead to full, with no degradation of quality. All batteries give up eventually, just depends on how hard you run them how well charged you keep them. Remember- it's the alternators job to charge batteries not run your stereo!
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I was quoted for $290 for a 140amp alt, which is pretty damn expensive. My alternator isn't bad, but it should be able to handle 450w when its an 80 amp alt. Plus, a lot of other people have commented that their systems run fine at 450w. I have to be missing something, I just don't know what.
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