What Sounds Good in a '93 Camry

[Type699]

Hello everyone. I am new to Toyotas, but been around car audio for the past 20 years.

I just got a little '93 Camry LE to drive back and forth to work, and want to install all my car audio gear in it. I haven't bought anything in about 10 years, and did a little shopping around the last couple weekends.

There's a lot more choices nowadays.

What I am looking for is some low cost but good sounding 6.5" or 6.75" components for the front, and then possibly some new subs.

In the past, I have always ran MB Quart components in the front, and really haven't tried anything else. There isn't a dealer around here that carries them anymore, plus I really don't have that kind of $$$ to spend on speakers anymore.

I have owned just about every brand of sub on the market back then. Orion XTR were probably my favorite, I used to have 4 12"s in my full size Blazer a few years ago. I have also owned JL Audio, Soundstream, Rockford Fosgate, Pyle, MTX, Cerwin Vega, Lanzar, Kicker, Phoenix Gold...

I have a pair of subs in a box that I had custom made for my '00 S-10 Ext Cab pickup, but the box is just too long for the trunk of the Camry, plus it was custom tuned for the interior of the S-10, so I don't know if it will sound good in the Camry.

Basically back in the day when I used to work at a car audio shop, there was always 1 or 2 kinds of subs that just sounded the best in certain kind of cars. What sounds the BEST in a 93 Camry??

Also, I see a ton of really cheap 6.5" comp sets on eBay, is there anything inherently wrong with ones like Phoenix Gold?? They were always one of the best years ago. I see them on eBay for something like $50 for a pair shipped??#?%?

Here's what I have to play with so far:

Pioneer Premier DEH-P520 (Don't laugh, hasn't missed a beat since I bought it, and don't have a reason to replace.. It's probably 6 years old and has been used every day!)
Audio Control Epicenter (BOOM!)
Nakamichi EC-200 2 way Crossover (old, but works and sounds awesome)
(2) a/d/s/ PQ20 4-Channel amps (80w x 4 into 4 ohms. Probably one of the sweetest sounding amps ever made. period.)
Soundstream Reference 1000s Amp. (250 x 2 into 4 ohms, I have run it 500x2 into 1/2 ohm for a couple years. Probably one of the most powerful amps ever made)

I might just sell the Soundstream amp, and only use the two PQ20's, the PQ20's are really more than enough power if I bridge one of them into a pair of 4 ohm subs, or just use 1 DVC sub. That would be like 640 watts total to the subs. I am past the days of SPL, want more SQ nowadays.

[TakeABao]

How much do you want for the Reference 1000?

If you want cheap, but GREAT SQ along with the perfect impendance load, I'd say go with a pair of Soundstream EXACTs. They're perfect in that power range and many consider them to be some of the best SQ drivers ever made. Millionbuy.com still have them for dirt cheap -- so you might want to check 'em out there.

The cheap components you see on ebay (namely the PG ones) are just that -- cheap. PG's "Octane R" lineup is geared towards the ricer who wants cheap speakers and an excuse to slap another "R" sticker on his car...

If you want a pair of affordable, but great-sounding pre-packaged components, I'd look toward a pair of Alpine Type-X's (about $200 or less on eBay or in shops), some OZ Audio Matrix Elites (a bit pricier, but well worth it), or if you're on a budget I've been told that the Pioneer PRS components are great for the money ($125 price range).

Hope this helps -- somewhat.

[cam2Xrunner]

You've got some really nice equipment. Are you familiar with wiring active?

[Type699]

"wiring active"??

You mean using active crossovers instead of passive ones? I never really saw the point of it.

The way I see it, I can run my fronts 1 of two ways.

1. 1 PQ20 bridged to 2 channel mode, that would give me 320 x 2 to the fronts. Use crossover that came with speakers.

2. 1 PQ20 in 4 channel mode, 4 x 80, 80 watts to each mid, 80 watts to each tweeter. Use a electronic crossover before the amp.

To me, option #1 sounds better, plays louder, less distortion. Sure, option 2 will have better sound quality, but we're talking about a car here, that's moving. I'd rather have the extra power. Plus the PQ20 has really low distortion anyways, and it's hard to tell the difference in SQ between normal/bridged mode.

P.S. I just checked my Reference 1000s over, doesn't work anymore. Takeabao, if you still want it let me know. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix. (I believe Soundstream still has a max repair price of $85..) It's in mint condition, no scratches or anything. Only been in 2 vehicles, both times in the same amp rack, always covered, and with a couple fans on it.

[TakeABao]

Originally Posted by Type699

P.S. I just checked my Reference 1000s over, doesn't work anymore. Takeabao, if you still want it let me know. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix. (I believe Soundstream still has a max repair price of $85..) It's in mint condition, no scratches or anything. Only been in 2 vehicles, both times in the same amp rack, always covered, and with a couple fans on it.

You got PM.

[cam2Xrunner]

Originally Posted by Type699

"wiring active"??

You mean using active crossovers instead of passive ones? I never really saw the point of it.

There are a few advantages of wiring active.
1. You can spend ~200 dollars and get a set of speakers that will outperform 400+ Component speakers.

2.You can custom tailor your crossover points and slopes.

The passive crossovers in component sets are designed to make the speakers work well with each other. That's it The passive crossover doesn't know the acoustical properties of you vehicle, the pathlength differences, the airspace available, the way they are going to be pointed, etc.

By wiring active and using a fully adjustable electronic crossover you have more options when it comes down to tuning.

But that doesn't mean you can't get Passive components to work well.

That being said, if you want to go with passives, to use something that will handle 320 watts going through the passive crossover you are going to have to spend some money. Components in the ~200 dollar range are definitely not going to be able to take that amount of power.

With 200 bucks, I'd also rec. the Alpine Type-X components. They go for about 200 shipped, and they have dual inputs on the crossovers, allowing you to biamp them. Meaning run two channels into each passive crossover this way it can safely handle the 80 + 80 watts.

If you want to spend more money and bridge the amp, I'd look into Boston Pro's , Z6's, those can handle alot of power, but are exspensive.

Now if you want to wire active and spend the same 200 dollars on individual drivers and get a package that will blow away the Alpines, or anything else in the price range, check out www.diymobileaudio.com and check out some reviews.

I'm personally going with Seas G18RNX, and either Hiquphon OW2's, Seas 27TBFC/G, LPG 25NFA(most likely these)