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Old 08-30-2005, 10:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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^^^^^^ wrong....you need a battery isolator, so that you have 1 battery for the vehicle and 1 for everything else, otherwise they dra the same and yoou end up with 2 dead battry's and no way to start the car
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knailgun
^^^^^^ wrong....you need a battery isolator, so that you have 1 battery for the vehicle and 1 for everything else, otherwise they dra the same and yoou end up with 2 dead battry's and no way to start the car
Wrong.

http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm

Read the last section.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:23 PM   #18 (permalink)
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every time we've done a dual batt setup, we've used stinger batt isolators for the sheer fact that it is less a pain in the ass, also makes it a tad bit easier if you don't want the vehicle battery to have any impact FROM the audio battery. Though you CAN fuse them, it's not my preferred method of attack, but you ARE right in that respect
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Old 08-30-2005, 11:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm kind of new to this aspect but it looks like from some research the best way to do this would be to use a battery isolator with a bigger stronger battery closest to the amp. Any body else do this same setup?
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Old 08-31-2005, 04:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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How much do battery Isolators run in price?

edit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Multi...95669396QQrdZ1

?


==

So you hook up just the alt to the isolator, and the 1 terminal to the starter battery, other terminal to the deep cycle battery. You take the mess of wires that originally wen tto the starter battery (minus the alt wire) and connect that to the start battery. Take my system wiring and connect that to the deep cycle?
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Old 08-31-2005, 05:01 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Ones ive seen vary depending on the amperage. Anywhere from $50 to $250

a 2 Battery Isolator goes on JC whitney for $70

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