oil and brake changes

[dieselpartsman]

Just got a 07 Tundra. I like to do my own oil changes and brakes. I ran full synth oil on my Fords, filter every 5000 and filter and oil every 10,000. I see that Toyotas are different-cartridge filters instead of spin on. I would appreciate any advice, directions and tips in changing my oil.

Same with brakes. Looks like disc brakes all around. Any tips I can use/need?

thanks!!!

[arabianobsession]

With the cartridge filter, there's a plug you can take out and it drains out all the oil quicker. You have to replace the little plastic piece inside afterwards, however. Although it's faster to do it this way, I prefer to unscrew the cartridge filter a little bit and let it drain on its own. You have to be careful because if you unscrew it too far then the whole thing will drop and leave a mess everywhere. The filter itself is pretty long, about 6-8 inches if I remember correctly.

With disc brakes all around, I see that you're in New York. Keep an eye on the rear because in salty winter conditions those calipers go crappy really quick since they're not used as heavily as the fronts are.

[littleslim1474]

Well to drain the oils its you need a 14mm socket. You have to drop the shield which is held by 3 10mm nuts and 6 12mm nuts if im not mistaken, then you have the cartridge filter. You have the plug at the bottom of the cartridge which you can remove the oil. Or just loosen it and let the oil just drain out and slowly remove it so you dont drop it and make a mess. Brakes you have 4 piston calipers in the front nothing drastic to change pads. You have 2 pins to slid out and pads come right out. You can use a sturdy screwdriver while the pads are still in compress the pistons back in

[ckyle29]

Toyota went to the canister filter to because it's cheaper to make and it cuts down on all the old spin-on filters filling up the landfills.

If you buy a purolator filter, it comes with a screw-in plug to drain the filter housing prior to removing it. All the others come with a plug that must be pushed into the housing, and it can be hard to get it in straight and sometimes not at all. With the screw-in plug, there is virtually no mess when you remove the filter housing.

As for the housing itself, get yourself an Asenmacher (Toyo 640) filter tool (google for sources) as the ones sold at parts stores are cheap plastic 65-67mm tools and don't fit for crap or sometimes not at all. The Asenmacher fits snugly and makes the oil change a breeze.

Be careful when taking out the oil pan drain plug, as oil can shoot everywhere, including on your passenger front tire. A funnel can help direct the flow or you can do what I did and install a Fujimoto valve. Keeping the oil filler cap on while draining will also slow the rate of flow somewhat.

This change can be much messier than you might be accustomed to the first time, so have lot's of floor covering down. It really is pretty easy once you know what to expect.