I decided to replace the base stereo in my 2009 HL Sport with an aftermarket double din radio, specifically, the Pioneer FH-P8000BT.
I chose this head unit because of its good ratings, and it having many features, including integrated bluetooth (includes mic) and flash stick/ipod integration.
I also decided to add a Blaupunkt Thb 200A amplified subwoofer. Given that I did not want to give up cargo space, and that there are few subs that will work in the hatch, I decided to go with this unit that fits perfectly under the driver's seat. I was not looking for earth shattering bass...just to fill in lows, and it works well in that regard.
Finally, picked up a PAC steering wheel interface, which allows me to maintain my steering wheel controls with my new HU. Given I was installing a Pioneer HU, the PAC SWI-PS was the appropriate model.
Other parts needed for this install was a dash kit, Scosche TA2102B, and a Toyota wire harness set (2 seperate connectors). You may also want to consider using some 1/2" loom to protect wire runs as bigb56 used in his sub install (see post #37 below). Great idea bigb!
I thought I would provide some pics of my install in hopes it might help others who are thinking of swapping their head units.
1. First, I soldered all my connections from my Pioneer head unit wiring harness, to the aftermarket toyota harnesses and to the PAC interface harness. This allows me to do most* of the soldering connections on my bench rather than in car, and simply plug the this assembly into the in-dash harness. I used heat shrink tubing from Home Depot for all my connections, and where necessary, used some electrical tape to cover up the ends of unused wires. Not going to go into connection details here...both harnesses are well labelled.
EDIT: You will note that my blue antenna wire from the pioneer black harness was not soldered to the blue wire for the Toyota harness. Both are taped up. I figured not necessary since I don't have a power antenna. But, I have been suffering from less than ideal radio reception, especially on AM, and after some reading, I learned that the blue may also include an antenna power booster. So, I may have made a boo-boo by not connecting them. When I get everything out to adjust the alignment of the MFD, I am going to solder those wires to see if it makes a difference with my reception.
EDIT 2: I pulled the trim off and was able to access the two wires without pulling out my entire radio and MFD assembly. Used some crimp connectors to connect and instant improvement to reception. There must definitely be some sort of antenna booster in the HL.
* I say most because the PAC SWI-PS requires some soldering to a third harness in the dash.
(note the artistic paint patterns on my work mat.....its a hand-me-down from my son)
Pulled the following pic together using a variety of sources. It is the wire harness for non-JBL HL. Not sure if JBL HU differs or not.
2. I made myself some trim tools out of plexiglas I had kicking around. Just filed and sanded some ends to a point. Helps open a gap between panels so you can get your fingers in. You can do without these, but it just makes the task a bit harder. I would stay away from hard tools like screw drivers or other metal objects....you will surely scar your trim.
3. A little trick I wish I had of thought of prior to starting step 4...Turn the ignition to the "on" position and shift the car into Neutral. This gave me more room to remove this bottom trim plate. Of course, applying the emergency brake is a good idea!! This should be done at the outset, because before beginning with trim removal and unplugging of connectors, I disconnected the negative cable from my battery. So to do this, I had to reconnect the battery the disconnect again.
First I removed the vent trim above the stock head unit. Used my plexi tool to get it started then had to get my fingers in there and just tug straight out towards me, not up or down. Takes quite a bit of force, and my fingers were sore by the time it actually released.
Here you will see the clips you are dealing with on the back of the vent trim.
4. Next I removed the trim plate that contains the seat heater, aux jack and 12V power outlet. this was the hardest all of all in my opinion. I found that getting the tool in around the drivers side temp knob was a good starting point, then move out towards the steering colum. Again, lots a force required, my fingers were sore after pulling this one. Then slowly I worked my way to the right. I was careful not to pull any one side out completely until all the tabs are fully or partially released. Doing so could result in broken clips.
There are three connectors to release. Generally, to release the connectors, pull while pressing a small tab on the connector. The 12v has no tabs if I remember correctly.
I didn't label the connectors....they are all different shapes so there was no risk of mixing them up upon re-assembly.
5. Next, is the HVAC control unit. There are only 2 clips holding this one in so it comes out fairly easily. I found it best grasp the unit firmly with both hands and pulling towards me. One connector to disconnect.
6. Next is the stock head unit. There are 4 screws to remove....two top and two bottom. The head unit is attached to the display unit via brackets. Everything slides out, and once away from the dash, there is a connector to remove from the back of the display, then three or four from the back of the radio, in addition to the antenna. There is also a connector for the back of the hazard button at the bottom of the stock head unit assembly.
I removed the 3 screws from either side of the bracket attaching it to the stock head unit. The other step that I do not have a picture of is the removal of the hazard button from the bottom of the radio assembly. Its quite simple....there are two metal clips on the back...press them inwards towards the center and simply gently push the hazard button out towards the front of the assembly. Then manoever it so you can pull it back through out the back of the assembly. It is connected to the bracket so just let this dangle for now. You will slip it into the Scosche dash kit as one of the last re-assembly steps.
Then, I lined up my Pioneer HU between the brackets and the holes lined up perfectly. I presume there is some sort of standard for these mounting holes.
Next, I plugged in my harnesses (see above) to the in-dash harnesses. The PAC SWI also required tapping into a third harness that was connected to the stock radio (& the ends up being unused). The PAC website provides detailed instructions and picture of the connector and pins that you need to connect to. I used a sharp knife to strip back some insulation on the backside of the 3rd connector then soldered the connections. Then, taped them up well.
I connected three grounds together using a crimp connector, and used one of the bottom screws that attach the head unit bracket to the vehicle. This is a solid ground....did a meter test.
I then ran the PAC SWI through the back of the center stack console towards an opening near the gas pedal. The SWI should be mounted somewhere accesible in case it needs to be reprogrammed for some reason. I used some adhesive backed velcro to affix it under the dash near the gas pedal.
I also ran the wire for my bluetooth mic. I removed the trim on the door threshold first. It requires pulling straight up, and needs quite a bit of force. Then, the side panel in the foot well requires removal of a plastic nut and simply pulling towards the back of the vehicle. Left these off as I needed to run the power wire for my sub later. Then ran the mic wire from back of HU towards gas pedal, under the carpet towards the door, then up the weather striping channel to a-pillar.
Next, was my USB cable (came with the Pioneer) for my IPOD or flash stick. I decided I wanted this in the storage in my center console, so I had to remove the trim around my shifter. This was fairly easy. I simply grasped at the front (where the seat heater panel had been removed) and pulled up, then grasped the sides near the storage compartment and popped the rest off. I drilled a small hole into the storage compartment and used a grommet purchased at Home Depot. I affixed the wire using plastic cable ties. I then used adhesive velcro to affix the connector to the side of my storage compartment, and also put some velcro on my flash stick.
I then slid in the head unit assembly into the dash, connected the Pioneer HU and tested the radio. All worked :thumbsup:
Before installing my HU permanently, I needed to run my audio interconnects for my sub. As you can see, I ran them under the carpet, close to the center console. I used the heater vent under the driver's seat as access point, and in order to run the RCAs, I used a 3/8" piece of wood dowel because it was stiff enough not to snag on the carpet. Since I had removed the panel on the left of the foot well, I was able to pull back the carpet near the pedals. I slid my hand under the carpet from the foot well while fishing the dowel under the carpet (i have long arms). When the dowel made it through, I taped the rcas to the end of the dowel, and pulled it back out near the heater vent. Then manoeverd the RCAs close to the centre console and ran them towards the gas pedal and up towards back of head unit.
Edit: in post #37 below, bigb56 used some 1/2" loom to protect his wires. I think it's a great idea to prevent wear, breakage and possible short. Wish I had thought of it when I did my install!
cont'd next post...
I chose this head unit because of its good ratings, and it having many features, including integrated bluetooth (includes mic) and flash stick/ipod integration.
I also decided to add a Blaupunkt Thb 200A amplified subwoofer. Given that I did not want to give up cargo space, and that there are few subs that will work in the hatch, I decided to go with this unit that fits perfectly under the driver's seat. I was not looking for earth shattering bass...just to fill in lows, and it works well in that regard.
Finally, picked up a PAC steering wheel interface, which allows me to maintain my steering wheel controls with my new HU. Given I was installing a Pioneer HU, the PAC SWI-PS was the appropriate model.
Other parts needed for this install was a dash kit, Scosche TA2102B, and a Toyota wire harness set (2 seperate connectors). You may also want to consider using some 1/2" loom to protect wire runs as bigb56 used in his sub install (see post #37 below). Great idea bigb!
I thought I would provide some pics of my install in hopes it might help others who are thinking of swapping their head units.
1. First, I soldered all my connections from my Pioneer head unit wiring harness, to the aftermarket toyota harnesses and to the PAC interface harness. This allows me to do most* of the soldering connections on my bench rather than in car, and simply plug the this assembly into the in-dash harness. I used heat shrink tubing from Home Depot for all my connections, and where necessary, used some electrical tape to cover up the ends of unused wires. Not going to go into connection details here...both harnesses are well labelled.
EDIT: You will note that my blue antenna wire from the pioneer black harness was not soldered to the blue wire for the Toyota harness. Both are taped up. I figured not necessary since I don't have a power antenna. But, I have been suffering from less than ideal radio reception, especially on AM, and after some reading, I learned that the blue may also include an antenna power booster. So, I may have made a boo-boo by not connecting them. When I get everything out to adjust the alignment of the MFD, I am going to solder those wires to see if it makes a difference with my reception.
EDIT 2: I pulled the trim off and was able to access the two wires without pulling out my entire radio and MFD assembly. Used some crimp connectors to connect and instant improvement to reception. There must definitely be some sort of antenna booster in the HL.
* I say most because the PAC SWI-PS requires some soldering to a third harness in the dash.
(note the artistic paint patterns on my work mat.....its a hand-me-down from my son)
Pulled the following pic together using a variety of sources. It is the wire harness for non-JBL HL. Not sure if JBL HU differs or not.
2. I made myself some trim tools out of plexiglas I had kicking around. Just filed and sanded some ends to a point. Helps open a gap between panels so you can get your fingers in. You can do without these, but it just makes the task a bit harder. I would stay away from hard tools like screw drivers or other metal objects....you will surely scar your trim.
3. A little trick I wish I had of thought of prior to starting step 4...Turn the ignition to the "on" position and shift the car into Neutral. This gave me more room to remove this bottom trim plate. Of course, applying the emergency brake is a good idea!! This should be done at the outset, because before beginning with trim removal and unplugging of connectors, I disconnected the negative cable from my battery. So to do this, I had to reconnect the battery the disconnect again.
First I removed the vent trim above the stock head unit. Used my plexi tool to get it started then had to get my fingers in there and just tug straight out towards me, not up or down. Takes quite a bit of force, and my fingers were sore by the time it actually released.
Here you will see the clips you are dealing with on the back of the vent trim.
4. Next I removed the trim plate that contains the seat heater, aux jack and 12V power outlet. this was the hardest all of all in my opinion. I found that getting the tool in around the drivers side temp knob was a good starting point, then move out towards the steering colum. Again, lots a force required, my fingers were sore after pulling this one. Then slowly I worked my way to the right. I was careful not to pull any one side out completely until all the tabs are fully or partially released. Doing so could result in broken clips.
There are three connectors to release. Generally, to release the connectors, pull while pressing a small tab on the connector. The 12v has no tabs if I remember correctly.
I didn't label the connectors....they are all different shapes so there was no risk of mixing them up upon re-assembly.
5. Next, is the HVAC control unit. There are only 2 clips holding this one in so it comes out fairly easily. I found it best grasp the unit firmly with both hands and pulling towards me. One connector to disconnect.
6. Next is the stock head unit. There are 4 screws to remove....two top and two bottom. The head unit is attached to the display unit via brackets. Everything slides out, and once away from the dash, there is a connector to remove from the back of the display, then three or four from the back of the radio, in addition to the antenna. There is also a connector for the back of the hazard button at the bottom of the stock head unit assembly.
I removed the 3 screws from either side of the bracket attaching it to the stock head unit. The other step that I do not have a picture of is the removal of the hazard button from the bottom of the radio assembly. Its quite simple....there are two metal clips on the back...press them inwards towards the center and simply gently push the hazard button out towards the front of the assembly. Then manoever it so you can pull it back through out the back of the assembly. It is connected to the bracket so just let this dangle for now. You will slip it into the Scosche dash kit as one of the last re-assembly steps.
Then, I lined up my Pioneer HU between the brackets and the holes lined up perfectly. I presume there is some sort of standard for these mounting holes.
Next, I plugged in my harnesses (see above) to the in-dash harnesses. The PAC SWI also required tapping into a third harness that was connected to the stock radio (& the ends up being unused). The PAC website provides detailed instructions and picture of the connector and pins that you need to connect to. I used a sharp knife to strip back some insulation on the backside of the 3rd connector then soldered the connections. Then, taped them up well.
I connected three grounds together using a crimp connector, and used one of the bottom screws that attach the head unit bracket to the vehicle. This is a solid ground....did a meter test.
I then ran the PAC SWI through the back of the center stack console towards an opening near the gas pedal. The SWI should be mounted somewhere accesible in case it needs to be reprogrammed for some reason. I used some adhesive backed velcro to affix it under the dash near the gas pedal.
I also ran the wire for my bluetooth mic. I removed the trim on the door threshold first. It requires pulling straight up, and needs quite a bit of force. Then, the side panel in the foot well requires removal of a plastic nut and simply pulling towards the back of the vehicle. Left these off as I needed to run the power wire for my sub later. Then ran the mic wire from back of HU towards gas pedal, under the carpet towards the door, then up the weather striping channel to a-pillar.
Next, was my USB cable (came with the Pioneer) for my IPOD or flash stick. I decided I wanted this in the storage in my center console, so I had to remove the trim around my shifter. This was fairly easy. I simply grasped at the front (where the seat heater panel had been removed) and pulled up, then grasped the sides near the storage compartment and popped the rest off. I drilled a small hole into the storage compartment and used a grommet purchased at Home Depot. I affixed the wire using plastic cable ties. I then used adhesive velcro to affix the connector to the side of my storage compartment, and also put some velcro on my flash stick.
I then slid in the head unit assembly into the dash, connected the Pioneer HU and tested the radio. All worked :thumbsup:
Before installing my HU permanently, I needed to run my audio interconnects for my sub. As you can see, I ran them under the carpet, close to the center console. I used the heater vent under the driver's seat as access point, and in order to run the RCAs, I used a 3/8" piece of wood dowel because it was stiff enough not to snag on the carpet. Since I had removed the panel on the left of the foot well, I was able to pull back the carpet near the pedals. I slid my hand under the carpet from the foot well while fishing the dowel under the carpet (i have long arms). When the dowel made it through, I taped the rcas to the end of the dowel, and pulled it back out near the heater vent. Then manoeverd the RCAs close to the centre console and ran them towards the gas pedal and up towards back of head unit.
Edit: in post #37 below, bigb56 used some 1/2" loom to protect his wires. I think it's a great idea to prevent wear, breakage and possible short. Wish I had thought of it when I did my install!
cont'd next post...