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OEM Highlander radio connections

21K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  jmuhammad 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2010 Highlander and just ordered a newer OEM radio online.
The new radio isn't the nav screen but has a lot better display than the one that came with my hl.
The new radio has two extra connections and I was wondering if anyone would help me out to what these connections are for. I would think that one of them is for the USB which I don't have and could live without.

The connections in question are the top two.

Hopefully this pic comes out below as to this is my first try.







Thanks,
Brad
 
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#4 ·
The top right one is your bluetooth mic connections. The blue should be the satellite antenna .

Now on the bottom row, the 2nd white one from the left. That should be empty. Unless you have the rear entertainment system, there shouldn't be a plug for that. Especially considering the new 2011+ headunit uses that connector for the multimedia ECU. USB is controlled by that ECU so you won't have that.
 
#5 ·
Thanks!

That leads me to a few more questions.
Will it have bluetooth audio streaming from phone if I don't connect mic to bluetooth port?
Where can I find a bluetooth mic that does connect to the port in case I do want to talk on phone via head unit?

I do have after market Audiovox Advent flipdown rear entertainment. I ran the audio out to the aux port on the front. Is there an adapter that goes from rca to the rear entertainment port on the head unit?

Don't care much about the satellite, but what are my options to have that added?

Since this unit is coming from Canada is there anything I should be aware of that might be set up different? Not sure if the radio freqs would be the same as here or anything else



Thanks!
Brad
 
#6 ·
I'm watching this thread with keen interest. I too have a 2010 base HL and bought the exact same head unit as the OP (pulled from a 2012).


Sweeney; any caveats or tricks to swapping the old model out for a new one?

Thanks in advance,
Asif
 
#8 ·
I did this swap in my 2010 HL using the same updated stereo. The blue connector is for the satellite antenna. My 2010 was wired with the XM receiver under the drivers seat. The satellite wire is behind the dash, has an inline connector that you disconnect and then put in your new hu. I transferred the unit number with XM and it works great.
Bluetooth will not stream since you have no existing connections to lead into the new hu. It was cost prohibitive so I didn't add Bluetooth. I like the new hu,, lighted display, better presets and a seamless installation.
Good luck with your swap, you will be happy you did it !
 
#10 ·
Thanks for all your feedback fellas; really helps.

Brad; Too bad; my unit is coming from the US and I'm in Canada. I'm sure shipping would have been cheaper had we bought from opposite vendors! That being said, you won't have a problem with tuner frequencies. They are the same here as they are down south.

Sweeney et. al: I guess my only remaining questions are these:
-On the image that Brad (OP) has posted, there are two "banks" of connectors lower than the two that Brad has arrows pointed to. Will my "base" unit have enough connectors to plug into these two banks? I guess I'm asking if this is a simple "plug and play operation"?

-With your help in another post Sweeney, I was able to remove most of the console upto and including the HVAC assembly (thank-you for that). Above the HVAC assembly is the radio assembly. Any tips/tricks in removing that? Is it pull out just like the HVAC or are there any screws that need removing?

Many thanks again. I find the people here so amenable and helpful unlike some of the other forums I belong to (see signature for clues!!)

Thanks
Asif
 
#11 ·
T
Sweeney et. al: I guess my only remaining questions are these:
-On the image that Brad (OP) has posted, there are two "banks" of connectors lower than the two that Brad has arrows pointed to. Will my "base" unit have enough connectors to plug into these two banks? I guess I'm asking if this is a simple "plug and play operation"?
In short, yes

Ok here are the sockets from left to right on the bottom on the 2011+ model shown:
E3: Steering wheel controls, aux in, speed wire
E16: (ON 08-10) Rear DVD player, (ON 11+) Multimedia ECU
E8: 12v+, ACC, GND, Front L/R speakers, antenna amplifier
E9: Rear L/R speakers

Just ignore E16, it won't effect an install unless you have the OEM rear dvd player, then it loses its ability to work with the radio.

The top row on the right is:
E32 (2011+ ONLY): bluetooth mic wires


Basically all the wires go to the same socket/same pins except for E16 and E32. It should be totally plug-n-play. Those 2 sockets aren't necessary for radio function. :thumbsup:
-With your help in another post Sweeney, I was able to remove most of the console upto and including the HVAC assembly (thank-you for that). Above the HVAC assembly is the radio assembly. Any tips/tricks in removing that? Is it pull out just like the HVAC or are there any screws that need removing?
Well you already did 1/3 the radio removal by removing the HVAC controls. So do that again, then there are 2 AC vents above the radio. They are one panel, that needs removing. I can usually just grab it tight enough to pull it straight out with my hands, but if you can't get enough grip, you can use a small flat head screwdriver to wedge between it and the dash and force it out (READ THIS: make sure you put electrical (or some kind of) tape over the screwdriver, otherwise you WILL damage/scuff up the dash). It comes out by pulling it straight away from the dash. Then the radio is held in with 4 10mm bolts, 2 above the radio and 2 below. Remove those (they are obvious) and the radio slides out like the HVAC controls did.

More info here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...subwoofer-install-2009-toyota-highlander.html
 
#17 ·
Received the new head unit today and installed it.
Thanks to all you that have been helping out.

I just have a couple follow up questions:

1.) I plugged in the XM connector thanks to HomerSaysDoh, but when I select XM on the radio it says, "Check Antenna". Where is the antenna located and does it plug into the other circular connector on the hu?

2.) Back to the Bluetooth. I ordered the following Blu Logic bluetooth adapter. http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~bluetooth~sm~button~PT923-00111.html
I would rather not have to use it due to its limitations, for example it only plays bt audio streaming on the front two speakers.
Does anyone have the wiring schematics for the bluetooth portion of the radio. I see where the connector goes, but don't know where to obtain it and where it runs to. It seems I already have the bluetooth built-in the radio, I just need the mic and the command buttons that I can install on the dash similar to the Blu-Logic above.
or
If anyone knows how to pair a phone with the headunit without the use of the buttons on the steering wheel. I don't believe this is possible, but worth asking in case someone knows any tricks.


Thanks in advance for the help!
Brad
 
#18 ·
Highlander pair OEM Bluetooth

I have just upgraded the 2008 highlander OEM radio with one from 2011 model. All basic functions work with the exception of Auto Level Control (not really needed - not sure if you need to move speed cable?) XM radio (need antenna) and Bluetooth (see below for a theoretical solution)

Has anyone tried to use the Lexus Bluetooth interface to make the Bluetooth work on the highlander? :

Toyota Japan Voice/Navi Microphone Kit – Toyota Part Number 86750-44020

Read more: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...rol-and-command-list-guide.html#ixzz2R3HR3CtO


It looks like it has the 8 pin connector that may fit the highlander. If this works this would enable the voice command and allow the process of paring a phone or MP3 player to the unit.
 
#21 ·
Mute is "high" (FSM states 3.5+V) when music is playing and "low" (essentially ground, below 1V) when "changing music" and I assume when you hit the audio off button.

other end of the rear dvd player.....can you elaborate?

So is the problem with the parrot the fact it otuputs a high level signal? I looked on google and that appeared to be the issue (4x20W internal amp). Couldn't you just use a high->low converter to get line level then use some kind of switching device (or use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter and hook it up to the aux in)?
 
#22 ·
1) When I installed the Parrot I started from 'just getting it working' and now heading for 'getting it working beautifully'. At first, no amp...just let the Parrot internally switch its features (calls, bt music, etc) amplified to the speakers and the radio (non-amplified) to the speakers via its relays. Problem is the internal amp is terrible.

So now I am working to get everything amplified through an external amp. Parrot actually has a line level output (3.5mm jack (not plug) but its volume is not fixed...it is controlled by the remote's knob) that can be fed into a radio's line in (or in my case it would have to be the aux). So I have two options:

a) Feed the Parrot features through the radio aux in (easiest to try since I have aux jack under radio).
b) Convert the radio speaker out to line level then add a switcher to switch between the Parrot line level and the radio line level.

Both have one caveat: You have to manually switch the aux on your radio when a call comes in or when you want to listen to streamed music (or usb/ipod direct, 3.5mm line in) then switch it back when the call is over. There are some sites--especially the Honda Civic forums--that managed to get their radios to automatically switch using the Parrot's mute wire which is active during its functions. This is ultimately what I want to do (I may go inside the radio and wire some things...I am an engineer so I may even make a custom piece of electronics if I need to get fancy). Some other forums are just trying to overcome the fact that their radios/cars did not have an aux input at all.

2) So I am trying to understand the radio E16 connector to see if I can send any signals to control the HU...I did not know if the mute was an input to the radio or an output from the radio. Does this radio have an external mute trigger (connector pin)? I was asking where is the other end of the CD changer connector (is it in glove box, headliner, rear of vehicle?) My documentation is saying my radio controls a CD changer through that connector not a read DVD player--I do not have a JBL system.
 
#23 ·
If you had the JBL system, this would be a lot easier. It has a mute wire between the JBL amp and radio you could hijack to switch the system for you, but on a stock radio...you'll have to get creative. Does the parrot mute line go high (12V) when the mute is active? I wonder how much current it can drive. What you could do is run the parrot line out to some kind of manual or auto switching device at your amplifier. Then take a relay and use to break the ACC circuit going into the radio. Use the mute 12v signal to power the coil. That will kill the radio. for a call
OR
Build a simple circuit (and I almost did this before I got my cache), that holds enough relays to break all the circuits (4 if your using 2 channels or 8 if using 4 channels). Use some kind of box, have inputs for your radio's rca inputs and your parrots rca inputs. Have an output to go to your amplifier. Then use double throw relays to switch between either the radio's rca's or the parrots depending on if the mute line is driving them. So have 1 relay control the front right RCA + signal. Have the 87a pin (always closed) be the radio's signal, and when the relay is triggered, have your parrot front right rca + signal be on pin 87. Then output on 30...I hope this makes sense, I can draw it out if it doesn't. Its really simple, it would just require some RCA jacks, small through relays, and a little bit of soldering skills.

2) Oh I thought you did, well that changes things. What i posted was for a jbl system. There is a mute line for the JBL amp. The E16 mute is above 3.5V when RSE (rear entertainment system, aka dvd) is playing and below 1V when in "changing mode" (I'm going to assume that means off). There is no option for a external CD changer on the HL, are you getting that from the pin names (CDL+, CDR+, etc...) that is the rear dvd player wires. Unforntately there is a AVC-LAN connection between the RSE and radio (TXM+/TXM-). You can use the audio lines (CDL-/+ & CDR-/+) and mute to try and force your audio signal into the radio, but changes are it won't work without that LAN connection transmitting a particular signal
 
#24 · (Edited)
If you had the JBL system, this would be a lot easier. It has a mute wire between the JBL amp and radio you could hijack to switch the system for you, but on a stock radio...you'll have to get creative. Does the parrot mute line go high (12V) when the mute is active? I wonder how much current it can drive. What you could do is run the parrot line out to some kind of manual or auto switching device at your amplifier. Then take a relay and use to break the ACC circuit going into the radio. Use the mute 12v signal to power the coil. That will kill the radio. for a call
The mute line is meant to drive a SS input but can be used with a light-load relay coil (like a reed relay). If I go with option B I should be able to use Parrot's mute to automate the switcher.

OR
Build a simple circuit (and I almost did this before I got my cache), that holds enough relays to break all the circuits (4 if your using 2 channels or 8 if using 4 channels). Use some kind of box, have inputs for your radio's rca inputs and your parrots rca inputs. Have an output to go to your amplifier. Then use double throw relays to switch between either the radio's rca's or the parrots depending on if the mute line is driving them. So have 1 relay control the front right RCA + signal. Have the 87a pin (always closed) be the radio's signal, and when the relay is triggered, have your parrot front right rca + signal be on pin 87. Then output on 30...I hope this makes sense, I can draw it out if it doesn't. Its really simple, it would just require some RCA jacks, small through relays, and a little bit of soldering skills.
Yep, that's an 'easy' way to get around muting and changing modes.

Since the Parrot has relays in it I may investigate using the Parrot itself to switch its preamp and my converted radio outputs through its own relays and out the connector, soldering RCAs right on the main board and removing/bypassing the stinky internal amp. I can buy a spare brain in case I goof (or want to go back to original).

For now I will probably just buy a couple of PAC SNI35 Adjustable 2-Channel Line Out Converter and three Scosche US2B...I don't have a whole lot of time for just this. Just want to get it working as hands-off as possible for now. Later in the year (either TG or Xmas) I will get a high quality line output (like maybe AudioControl LC6i) and will probably design my own SS switcher to be more compact and test it here from 20-20khz (I'm actually an E/E Designer). Or like you said, I may just get lazy (and cheap) and use relays in the short term.

I am hoping for option A and get the Parrot line level in to the aux channel...will try it tomorrow.
2) Oh I thought you did, well that changes things. What i posted was for a jbl system. There is a mute line for the JBL amp. The E16 mute is above 3.5V when RSE (rear entertainment system, aka dvd) is playing and below 1V when in "changing mode" (I'm going to assume that means off). There is no option for a external CD changer on the HL, are you getting that from the pin names (CDL+, CDR+, etc...) that is the rear dvd player wires. Unforntately there is a AVC-LAN connection between the RSE and radio (TXM+/TXM-). You can use the audio lines (CDL-/+ & CDR-/+) and mute to try and force your audio signal into the radio, but changes are it won't work without that LAN connection transmitting a particular signal
OK, probably is a DVD player controller. I have some info on adding an auxillary port on that connector and a little on controlling it via AVC-Lan but it would be another project and not all that for me...just wanted to control the mute or something. I may do it at some point to recover my soon-to-be-used aux. But again, I am trying to go wireless in my vehicle (except charging :headbang: which is really sucky for iPhone5...I'm tempted to stuff a Belkin charge+sync dock in the cup holder :rofl:) and don't want to be plugging things in the aux port--just BT stream it.
 
#27 ·
I just realized that I HAVE TO figure out switching to aux during phone calls (if I am not already on aux). If I run the Parrot outside the radio then I am back to having two different volume controls. It is better to go through the radio. So if I cannot figure out how to control the radio through the DVD player connector then I will go inside the radio and wire something up.

First is to get it all sounding good.

Wish I had a spare radio...
 
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