Found the OEM hitch information - didn't really need it as the part itself had the lines to cut marked/molded on it.... Too bad as cutting it out there was NOT the right place for the Valley Hitch :-( It actually removes a lot more material than is needed as well as it didn't line up with the aftermarket hitch... Guess that's why they always said to measure twice and cut once.
On the plus, it was simple enough to cut using a jig saw and I was able to reattach the driver side cover. Fortunately all the cuts was on the underside, so unless you crawl under the truck, you won't see any of it.
Now to assemble the carrier and find a trailer......
Installed my OEM hitch this AM on my new 2011 HL. Not much new to add. Reading this thread and links prepared me pretty well.. thanks all . I did the installation by myself but used a crane to swing the hitch in place. Stuck a piece of 2 inch square tubing (~3 feet long) in the receiver hole.. added enough weight (C clamps) to balance the unit.. worked real slick.
My problem was trying to determine where "center" is and was the hitch square to the rest of the vehicle. I found that the side plates are offset, the LH a full thickness of the plate and the RH probably half a thickness. This means that by design the hitch can not be even /flush with the frame. I Trust I am "close enough" to not make a significant difference.
For what it is worth.. the hitch cost $549 Cnd. I could have bought one from the states but shipping was estimated at ~$155 and then there may have been a hassle at the border. Kind of expensive but... it looks like part of the car (truck?) instead of a bolt on add on. Cosmetics cost $$
The one thing I was really disappointed in is how ticky tac (read cheap) things are under there.. plastic push pins / bolts. plastic trays.. will be interesting to see how it all stands up.
Had a local dealer install the Toyota OEM Hitch today. Apparently, the 2011 instructions weren't quite accurate for the hybrid, as the battery location and perhaps something else varied. So, it took them over a couple hours to finish. They did modify the LH/RH panels and re-attach them. Overall, the factory hitch looks pretty good. I ended up paying $534 for hitch and wiring kit shipped from TOYOPARTSMAN. Installation was $195 less a 10% coupon for a total of $710 installed. Thanks again to Gary at Toyota of Newnan for the great service.
Hi CPSDarren
What did you end up getting with your "wiring kit"? Now that I have my hitch installed the next step is the wiring.. but reading all the associated posts I am left confused.
Under the dash by your left foot is a "plug" that I understand a converter plugs into. This "converts" the Japanese wiring (separate turn signal) to the American standard that utilizes one bulb with two filaments. So then with this plugged in (and a fuse installed) there is power to the plug in the back accessed by removing the plastic tray. The OEM wiring harness plugs into this plugin (left side rear) exits through a hole in the floor and is attached to a 4 way flat plug. Giving a left signal, right signal, and brake. Is this what was installed for you?
Or.. did they install a 7 way plug and if so what wiring did they have to run and were there any OEM modules used. If you had the 7 way plug installed that would include electric brakes for the trailer.. what line did they tap into for that. One trailer place told me that all recent vehicles have a proportional signal in the brake wire (multiplexed).. so that the harder you push on the brake a corresponding increase is applied to the trailer. This sound like a good solution but I have not been able to verify it. So really interested in what a "local dealer" would install. Any pictures of the plug in?
Thanks for your time
Last edited by Ralph6410; 05-23-2011 at 09:33 PM.
Reason: Added request for picture of plug
Hi CPSDarren
What did you end up getting with your "wiring kit"? Now that I have my hitch installed the next step is the wiring.. but reading all the associated posts I am left confused.
Under the dash by your left foot is a "plug" that I understand a converter plugs into. This "converts" the Japanese wiring (separate turn signal) to the American standard that utilizes one bulb with two filaments. So then with this plugged in (and a fuse installed) there is power to the plug in the back accessed by removing the plastic tray. The OEM wiring harness plugs into this plugin (left side rear) exits through a hole in the floor and is attached to a 4 way flat plug. Giving a left signal, right signal, and brake. Is this what was installed for you?
Or.. did they install a 7 way plug and if so what wiring did they have to run and were there any OEM modules used. If you had the 7 way plug installed that would include electric brakes for the trailer.. what line did they tap into for that. One trailer place told me that all recent vehicles have a proportional signal in the brake wire (multiplexed).. so that the harder you push on the brake a corresponding increase is applied to the trailer. This sound like a good solution but I have not been able to verify it. So really interested in what a "local dealer" would install. Any pictures of the plug in?
Thanks for your time
I confess that I didn't even open the box or see how they installed it. The dealer quoted me $195 for the hitch and the wire harness kit installed at the same time. I can tell you the part number was PT219-48111. I do have the owner's pamphlet and I can email you a copy of the 2011 Instructions (includes an included parts list) if you wish, just send me a PM with your address. I could also take a photo of the exterior and anything inside that is easy to access if no one else has one.
The OEM module is used as is and additional wiring is required for the 7 way setup, check out this link, Wiring for 7 Wire Trailer Setup
It's true, the more brake pressure that is applied, more voltage is send to the trrailer's electric brakes.
Thanks and I have studied this link... but I do not think that this installation utilizes the variable voltage. Looking at the wiring diagram that is part of the flat 4 pin OEM installation I do not see how a variable signal can be picked up by tapping into the brake line.. Tapping into the brake wire will only give a on or off condition.
Also looking at the specs on any (that I can find) of the electric brake controllers / modules I do not see any that claim to use this variable voltage feature. All that I can find rely on the module itself to regulate the voltage to the trailer brakes.
The 4 pin setup is for trailer lights only, it has nothing to do with brakes on a trailer. A brake controller, like a Prodigy, is the unit that applies voltage to the trailer's electric brakes. The Prodigy brake controller has an internal sensor, which senses deceleration and applies voltage based on the deceleration. That is why the Prodigy, and other brands, are called "proportional braking" controllers.
The 4 pin is for (1) brake/left turn, (2) brake/right turn, (3) tail or running lights and (4) ground.
The typical 7 pin adds (5) electric brakes, (6) backup lights and (7) auxiliary power, e.g., to charge a trailer's battery.
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2008 Highlander AWD, Blizzard Pearl & Ash interior, loaded but no rear entertainment
I agree newsrv.. but what I am trying to determine / research is.. If there is a multiplex brake wire that one can tap into.. and use that as a source for the proportional voltage applied to trailer brakes one would have the best possible system. Evidently for larger commercial units there are systems that tap into the hydraulics and convert that into a variable electric voltage that is applied to the trailer brakes.
I wonder how Toyota vehicles with a factory installed hitch and a 7 pin system work?
First to clarify, there is no factory 7 pin system for the Highlander (a major short coming on Toyota's part).
The Highlander's brake hydraulics have nothing to do with amount of voltage going to the electric brakes. When you press on the brake pedal, a constant voltage is sent to the brake controller in essence turning it on. The controller's sensor then sends a variable voltage to the electric brakes. The level of voltage applied is dependent on the magnitude of the deceleration as measured by the senor inside of the brake controller. This is why, when mounting the brake controller, that it is within the manufacturer's specifications. For example, the Prodigy is mounted parallel to the direction of travel and from zero (horizontal) to 70 degrees incline.
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2008 Highlander AWD, Blizzard Pearl & Ash interior, loaded but no rear entertainment
Found 2 different part numbers for th ewiring harness for my 08:
PT219-48871 and PT219-48111-WH
What is the difference?
Same thing, just new part# (probably an OEM Supplier change)
Toyota HIGHLANDER HARNESS
Toyota part number: PT219-48871 (Replaced by: PT219-48111-WH)
TO ALL: I have divested of the 2008 Highlander for a few reasons (we are a non-Toyota or Lexus family now):
1. Got a 2010 Honda Ridgeline to tow with - Highlander towed well, Ridgeline tows better (longer wheelbase and stiff chassis really help)
2. I wasn't gaining a lot of confidence in the HLs long term prognosis...Water pump and outer seal gone at 55K, clunky intermediate steering staft, just a general 'feels like a GM feels at 60K miles aka loose'. This despite meticulous maintenance on my part.
3. SUPER resell value despite my complaints - basically drove the HL Ltd for 3 years and 62K miles for approx $8,000 of lost value.
4. The wife wanted a small SUV and with the Ridgeline to tow, we could do it...Got a 2011 VW Tiguan SEL Prem...Super expensive on paper but also super discounted in reality. Having owned an Audi A4, I can now watch for the electrical gremlins (although my daughter's 2006 VW Rabbit as been as trouble free as the HL) So I think the gap between all mfrs is pretty small in terms of real world reliability.
So the fleet is now a 2010 Honda Ridgeline RTL w/Nav, a 2008 Infiniti G35xS, a 2006 VW Rabbit 2 Dr and the 2011 Tiguan...I'm sure I'll be making an update or two in the next couple years...
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2010 Honda Ridgeline RTL with Nav
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. I did the installation by myself but used a crane to swing the hitch in place. Stuck a piece of 2 inch square tubing (~3 feet long) in the receiver hole.. added enough weight (C clamps) to balance the unit.. worked real slick. 
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