Background:
The factory rear matt slid back and got caught in the hatch when the autoclose button was pushed. Did not notice this as we were walking away but it was not the same after this. Hatch would not close right automatically but will close fine automatically when a very light pressure (ie finger pressure) was applied to the right side when closing or we just close it manually.
I want the first oil change at 5K miles vs 10K miles because it is my car and I knew I would have to pay for this.
Problems:
Rear hatch glass seal shrinking and loose
Rear hatch will not fully close automatically but is ok when manually closed.
I wanted the oil changed at 5K.
Fixes:
Rear hatch glass seal ordered.
Rear hatch closing was worked on for 3 hours and no solution found. I was told I had to make an appointment with the body shop, maybe they can fix it.
Oil change cost me $75.92
3.5 total hours in waiting room.
That's why the only time a dealership touches my Toyotas is either for recall work or a warranty issue. Other than that only my rusty, trusty private mechanic or me touches my vehicles.
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2008 Highlander Base 4WD
2002 Avalon XL
1987 Suzuki Samurai 4X4 - Treading where no Jeep can follow....
The Following User Says Thank You to TrailDust For This Useful Post:
Background:
The factory rear matt slid back and got caught in the hatch when the autoclose button was pushed. Did not notice this as we were walking away but it was not the same after this. Hatch would not close right automatically but will close fine automatically when a very light pressure (ie finger pressure) was applied to the right side when closing or we just close it manually.
I want the first oil change at 5K miles vs 10K miles because it is my car and I knew I would have to pay for this.
Problems:
Rear hatch glass seal shrinking and loose
Rear hatch will not fully close automatically but is ok when manually closed.
I wanted the oil changed at 5K.
Fixes:
Rear hatch glass seal ordered.
Rear hatch closing was worked on for 3 hours and no solution found. I was told I had to make an appointment with the body shop, maybe they can fix it.
Oil change cost me $75.92
3.5 total hours in waiting room.
I had that issue (rear tailgate not closing automatically, but would with added pressure) when I got the car used from a Cadillac dealership. I took it back there and they found that the metal hook attached to the car body that the hatch attaches too somehow was out of line. They took the plastic panel off, loosened the hook, realigned it, and worked great. It was so far off that when the hatch closed it would move the entire tailgate sideways under the pressure of the misaligned hook. I hope this helps and its something this simple.
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
Background:
Problems:
Rear hatch glass seal shrinking and loose
Rear hatch will not fully close automatically but is ok when manually closed.
I wanted the oil changed at 5K.
Fixes:
Rear hatch glass seal ordered.
Rear hatch closing was worked on for 3 hours and no solution found. I was told I had to make an appointment with the body shop, maybe they can fix it.
Oil change cost me $75.92
3.5 total hours in waiting room.
Sound like they used synthetic oil for the oil change.
Dealers charge an arm and a leg and your first born when they use synthetic oil
Dealers in my area tell you up front how much the service will cost. Would hope dealers in your area would do the same
Will be interesting to see how long the part takes to get to the dealer.
My experience has been months. As the 08's were built in Japan it took me
five weeks to get a windshield (they were the only source at the time)
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2008 Highlander Limited AWD, Silver, SmartKey, VSC/TRAK, Bluetooth, Remote Start, No Nav, Tow package/hitch/color matched fascia, roof rack cross rails, Color keyed mud guards, Camry trumpet horns
Last edited by summerwind; 04-23-2011 at 06:28 AM.
Background:
The factory rear matt slid back and got caught in the hatch when the autoclose button was pushed. Did not notice this as we were walking away but it was not the same after this. Hatch would not close right automatically but will close fine automatically when a very light pressure (ie finger pressure) was applied to the right side when closing or we just close it manually.
I want the first oil change at 5K miles vs 10K miles because it is my car and I knew I would have to pay for this.
Problems:
Rear hatch glass seal shrinking and loose
Rear hatch will not fully close automatically but is ok when manually closed.
I wanted the oil changed at 5K.
Fixes:
Rear hatch glass seal ordered.
Rear hatch closing was worked on for 3 hours and no solution found. I was told I had to make an appointment with the body shop, maybe they can fix it.
Oil change cost me $75.92
3.5 total hours in waiting room.
Like stated above, toyota uses 0-20 synthetic oil in the 2011 to extend interval changes(saves them money with the maintenance free program). Also the maintenance free program only gives you free oil changes at 10k/12k miles or one year. So, yes they charged you for it. I know I will have to pay to change mine early, but I always change it after 1000k miles on a new engine.
A couple clarifications on the oil:
a) The first recommended (free) change is 10K.
b) They used Toyota brand synthetic oil per my request. The Toyota brand synthetic is very high in Moly which is good for a new engine.
c) In the old days I used to change the break in oil at 1000K but most manufacturers use break in additives today. Honda insisted on my Honda Pilot to allow the first oil with the break in additives to remain in the engine until the recommended interval. I am not sure about Toyota.
d) I was not concerned with longevity of the oil as much as removing deposits. After the first free change at 10K I will follow Toyota's recommendations, eventually changing the oil myself.
About the hatch:
They played with the metal hook that the latch attaches to for 3 hours. I don't think they had the skill set to do anything else. The hatch comes in on the drivers side first (side that is driven by the motor) and latches, but unlatches because the passenger side opposite the motor is not in far enough to catch. If you apply a very slight pressure to the passenger side when closing it will catch. I suspect this will be a weakness with the design as play builds in the hinges combined with flex in the hatch will always make the undriven passenger side harder to latch.
I will try another dealer and provide follow up.
Just so everybody knows, the oil from the factory is changed again when the car comes in to the dealership and gets the Pre Delivery Inspection. There is no need to do a "break in" oil change.
I know synthetic oil is expensive, but perhaps next time buy the oil from Walmart or an auto parts store (they do sell 0w-20 oil), and then pay them to change it. The oil will cost you around $28, and labor shouldn't run you more than $12-$15 on it.
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6 speed manual 2011 Camry SE
2012 Honda Accord Coupe---1995 Ford Mustang---1985 AMC Eagle
Just so everybody knows, the oil from the factory is changed again when the car comes in to the dealership and gets the Pre Delivery Inspection. There is no need to do a "break in" oil change.
Wow I am going to use your dealer.
The PDI in 08 did not change the oil as part of PDI
See link ==>PDF Check Sheet
Most dealers I have dealt with only remove the protective plastic. Wash it and call it PDI. Some don't even reduce the transport tire pressure from 41 PSI to spec.
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2008 Highlander Limited AWD, Silver, SmartKey, VSC/TRAK, Bluetooth, Remote Start, No Nav, Tow package/hitch/color matched fascia, roof rack cross rails, Color keyed mud guards, Camry trumpet horns
They have a revised PDI sheet now, which requires the tech to check off about 50 things that need to get done. Changing the oil is one of them, checking tire pressure, making sure all systems are working properly, all the correct accessories are installed, there are no lights on the dash, etc.
Our PDI is so extensive that we do the same thing to cars going out as we would for a showroom car. Detailed and perfected to a T. And having an inside delivery bay is nice, too
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6 speed manual 2011 Camry SE
2012 Honda Accord Coupe---1995 Ford Mustang---1985 AMC Eagle
They have a revised PDI sheet now, which requires the tech to check off about 50 things that need to get done. Changing the oil is one of them, checking tire pressure, making sure all systems are working properly, all the correct accessories are installed, there are no lights on the dash, etc.
Our PDI is so extensive that we do the same thing to cars going out as we would for a showroom car. Detailed and perfected to a T. And having an inside delivery bay is nice, too
My dealer had my tires jacked to 38psi. So, I would guess that other things were not checked either.
That's why the only time a dealership touches my Toyotas is either for recall work or a warranty issue. Other than that only my rusty, trusty private mechanic or me touches my vehicles.
Wow I am going to use your dealer.
The PDI in 08 did not change the oil as part of PDI
See link ==>PDF Check Sheet
Most dealers I have dealt with only remove the protective plastic. Wash it and call it PDI. Some don't even reduce the transport tire pressure from 41 PSI to spec.
summerwind, where did you get that checklist? I'd like to get one for my 2011...curious as to what the dealer did with my lander when they needed about 2.5 hrs before letting me take it away from them.
Just so everybody knows, the oil from the factory is changed again when the car comes in to the dealership and gets the Pre Delivery Inspection. There is no need to do a "break in" oil change
How do you know this???? You work at a dealer? So if I took my lander with just two miles of driving from the dealer, is that good enough to say you are removing all the break in junk? Do you account for time the engine is left at iddle at the plant?
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