Hi,
I just purchased a 2011 Highlander sport awd 6 cylinder. The base audio (not jbl) is underwhelming. Could I have an aftermarket subwoofer installed by a third-party to improve the sound? would this void the toyota warranty? Any recommendations on a good subwoofer? I am not an audiophile, but I do enjoy being able to turn the music up and feel it a little bit.
I'm curious.... I have seen several references to underwhelming base stereo systems in the 2011 HL. I have a 2011 HL with the base radio and tech package and I would call it anything but underwhelming. Especially in the bass. Mine is pretty flat down to 20Hz. In fact, I think it is actually might be louder at 20Hz than at 100. Granted, it won't rattle the windows of the next car over, but I find it far beyond my expectations.
How exactly do you find it lacking? In frequency response, power or overall accuracy?
Hi Paul,
of the three items you mentioned (frequency response, power, accuracy), I would say it is weak in power. You really have to turn the music up pretty high to get it to a decent volume. My goal is not to rattle windows, just to be able to feel the music a bit! I test drove another highlander with Nav system and JBL, and the audio sounded much better.
I have JBL, and it doesn't hit anywhere near 20hz, that is REALLY deep, most 12" subs don't hit that deep (their frequency response usually ends like at 25-28hz). So I cant imagine the bass system without a stock sub (or higher end front 6x9's) could hit that low, or with any serious volume to support that note. I looked up the base system specs for the audio, the front doors are 6x9's and the rear doors are 6.5" speakers. Those speakers should only be allowed to go down to around 60-70'ish hertz. Any lower your going to get distortion that effects the rest of the sound from that speaker. So adding a sub that would handle the 80hz down region of sound would definitely benefit the system. I did that in my highlander to add to the bass, so now it has the stock 8" in the tailgate and an additional 8". Its a fairly striaght forward install to put in a new sub if you know what you are doing, but going with an installer would probably be a better bet if you have no experience. To wire in a sub, you have to tap into the signal wires from the radio. As long as you don't tamper with the actual radio and just the wires it shouldn't void any warranty for your car. As for the sub you would want, it depends on the type of sound you want. A larger sub (high end 10" or 12") will produce a booming bass, while a 8" will produce more of a "punch". When I installed my new sub I installed a 8" JL Audio 8W1V2-4 running at about 150 watts RMS in a sealed enclosure. It sounds really good for its size and price, and is fairly loud. Now running at full volume it rattles the hell out of the car, but you don't really hear it outside, all the sound is within the vehicle (which was exactly what I wanted). Take a look at the bottom of this page (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/391181...lity-4d/page-3) it shows a pic of my sub in the trunk, it is very compact and out of the way. A larger sub will take up much more room in the trunk. As for brands I would recommend, Ive only used JL Audio in all my subs and I love their products, so I have no complaints with them.
Ok rant over
Hope this helps, and let me know if you got any more questions
Patrick
__________________
2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
I have JBL, and it doesn't hit anywhere near 20hz, that is REALLY deep, most 12" subs don't hit that deep (their frequency response usually ends like at 25-28hz). So I cant imagine the bass system without a stock sub (or higher end front 6x9's) could hit that low, or with any serious volume to support that note. I looked up the base system specs for the audio, the front doors are 6x9's and the rear doors are 6.5" speakers. Those speakers should only be allowed to go down to around 60-70'ish hertz. Any lower your going to get distortion that effects the rest of the sound from that speaker. So adding a sub that would handle the 80hz down region of sound would definitely benefit the system. I did that in my highlander to add to the bass, so now it has the stock 8" in the tailgate and an additional 8". Its a fairly striaght forward install to put in a new sub if you know what you are doing, but going with an installer would probably be a better bet if you have no experience. To wire in a sub, you have to tap into the signal wires from the radio. As long as you don't tamper with the actual radio and just the wires it shouldn't void any warranty for your car. As for the sub you would want, it depends on the type of sound you want. A larger sub (high end 10" or 12") will produce a booming bass, while a 8" will produce more of a "punch". When I installed my new sub I installed a 8" JL Audio 8W1V2-4 running at about 150 watts RMS in a sealed enclosure. It sounds really good for its size and price, and is fairly loud. Now running at full volume it rattles the hell out of the car, but you don't really hear it outside, all the sound is within the vehicle (which was exactly what I wanted). Take a look at the bottom of this page (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/391181...lity-4d/page-3) it shows a pic of my sub in the trunk, it is very compact and out of the way. A larger sub will take up much more room in the trunk. As for brands I would recommend, Ive only used JL Audio in all my subs and I love their products, so I have no complaints with them.
Ok rant over
Hope this helps, and let me know if you got any more questions
Patrick
I measured the stock 6x9s in my 2011 HH to have reasonable output at 40Hz, but not much below that. That was a lot better than I expected and I lost a lot of low bass when I replaced them with some 6.5" component speakers. Not only were the component speakers a little less efficient, but they rolled off closer to 80Hz or so.
I agree. To get decent sound pressure levels below 40Hz almost always requires a large driver in a large box. There's just no way to cheat physics.
I added component front door speakers and a small sub to my 2011. I'm pretty happy with the results. It doesn't move much air below 40Hz, but it's decent otherwise. Much better than the upgraded factory systems I've heard recently.
As for the warranty, my understanding is that manufacturers can't refuse warranty work unless it is directly related to some modification you did. So, while they might have grounds to refuse to fix something on your audio system depending on the problem, it's unlikely that they could refuse other types of repairs. Of course, they could try to refuse warranty service and it could be a hassle to deal with that, depending on the dealer...
OK, you've got me motivated to measure it. I have a battery operated signal generator I can plug into the aux in jack and do it easily. Before I do that, all I can say is that it has MUCH deeper bass than any factory system I have ever owned. I do audio recording on the side, and when I played my latest project in the HL, I heard infrasonic stuff that I didn't hear in my monitor speakers or in headphones.
No, it doesn't generate a huge SPL at low frequencies. But at normal listening levels, it is VERY good and I still maintain it is good to 20Hz. Certainly 40Hz.
It is possible there is a resonance down between 20 and 40 Hz that complicates things. Ie., it peaks before it then rolls off.
Paul
The Following User Says Thank You to pgoelz For This Useful Post:
OK, you've got me motivated to measure it. I have a battery operated signal generator I can plug into the aux in jack and do it easily. Before I do that, all I can say is that it has MUCH deeper bass than any factory system I have ever owned. I do audio recording on the side, and when I played my latest project in the HL, I heard infrasonic stuff that I didn't hear in my monitor speakers or in headphones.
No, it doesn't generate a huge SPL at low frequencies. But at normal listening levels, it is VERY good and I still maintain it is good to 20Hz. Certainly 40Hz.
It is possible there is a resonance down between 20 and 40 Hz that complicates things. Ie., it peaks before it then rolls off.
Paul
Yes, very possible. Many test signals use a 1/3 octave warble tone to reduce the effect of resonances.
When I measured, the response of the factory speakers was down a few db at 40 Hz and there was very little output at 31.5 Hz. Many factory systems don't have any substantial output at 40Hz, so bass wasn't really a problem. The factory tweeter was really lacking to me. A quality tweeter with a proper crossover could probably make a great improvement for much less than a pricey set of component speakers.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
