Has anyone tried Hitch-Vise?

[jasonjr23]

Hey Guys,

Have any of you tried this product?
http://www.hitchrider.com/hitch-vise-fit-guide-2.htm

I'm wondering how effective it is (does it prevent side-to-side as well as up-down movement?), and if it fits on a 2008 Highlander (toyota factory hitch). The Highlander is not listed on the fit guide.

I've been towing a utility trailer and the banging/rattling of the receiver really doesn't sound good...

Also, if anyone else has other options for preventing the hitch from rattling, let me know!

Thanks
-J

[Ralph6410]

I doubt this would fit on an OEM hitch. There is very little extension (protrusion) of the receiver past the stiffening plates. On mine there is possibly 1/2 inch on the top but on the bottom the weld is almost flush with the end of the receiver.

One possible solution if there is an excess of clearance would be to add a shim to the sides of the hitch. This would make it harder to install / remove but would probably stop the rattling. I would think that using something like RTV (caulking compound) would glue the shim enough to prevent it from creeping out. Or make it full length and then the pin would hold it as well.

Another option would be to weld a bead along each side of the hitch and grind it to fit. This could affect the metal characteristics but I doubt is would seriously affect the strength.

Good luck on a fix..

[jasonjr23]

Originally Posted by Ralph6410

I doubt this would fit on an OEM hitch. There is very little extension (protrusion) of the receiver past the stiffening plates. On mine there is possibly 1/2 inch on the top but on the bottom the weld is almost flush with the end of the receiver.

One possible solution if there is an excess of clearance would be to add a shim to the sides of the hitch. This would make it harder to install / remove but would probably stop the rattling. I would think that using something like RTV (caulking compound) would glue the shim enough to prevent it from creeping out. Or make it full length and then the pin would hold it as well.

Another option would be to weld a bead along each side of the hitch and grind it to fit. This could affect the metal characteristics but I doubt is would seriously affect the strength.

Good luck on a fix..

So I emailed the Hitch-Vise people and this was the response I got:
"It will fit if you have 1.3" clear space on the sides of the drawbar behind the hitch. The side plates are 2" wide. "
When they say the "sides of the drawbar," they are talking about the bar that you plug into the receiver? The one that is either a 2", 3' etc drop, and that you screw the hitch ball onto?

Also, I found this product. Maybe this is more of a "sure thing" to fit?
http://www.stowaway2.com/store/p/601...Tightener.aspx

[Ralph6410]

I would take "sides of the drawbar" to mean the part that is attached to the car. Your OEM hitch has a square tube (the part the ball is attached to goes into this) welded to another square tube that is attached to the car. then there are two gussets welded to both of these pieces, the bottom one is where you attach your safety chains. Both these gussets come very close to the end of the square tube and that is what prevents the clamp from being able to grab (clamp on to) the hitch.

Your second link would work very well in my opinion. The straight part would rest on the the bottom of the gusset (plate where the safety chains go) instead of on that square ring that the picture shows.

I think I may copy this design and make something for my own hitch.

[mb466]

Try this as a fix for the noise and wobble.

On the bottom of the OEM hitch frame, drill a 1/4" hole and tap it for a 5/16" screw.
Put in a 5/16" x 3/4" stainless screw which presses hard against the hitch mount. Now there is no wobble at all. It feels welded to the hitch frame. No one will ever be able to steal my hitch mount either, unless they have a proper allen wrench to loosen the hidden bolt.





The whole operation took about 10 minutes with the proper tools.
Tools / Parts needed:
1) Drill with 1/4" drill bit (capable of drilling steel)
2) Tapping set with 5/16" tap
3) 5/16" x 3/4" stainless screw with lock washer[/QUOTE]


Total cost: about $1.00 for the stainless bolt and washer.

[Ralph6410]

Nice idea! Keep the screw as far back (forward in relation to the car) as possible though, and this will only work well without the use of an equalizer hitch. Using an equalizer hitch will tip the shank down on to the screw "really" hard.. possibly stripping the threads or mushrooming the head and making the screw hard (impossible) to take out.

[jasonjr23]

Thanks Ralph and MB.
I ordered the Stowaway hitch tightener, I will let you know how it works.

MB, that looks like a pretty neat solution. If the hitch tightener I ordered is crap, I will give it a shot.
As stupid as this sounds, I always try to avoid drilling. So I figured for 20 bucks I could give the tightener a try.

[jasonjr23]

Just wanted to follow-up, the Stowaway Hitch Tightener works really well. Over the holiday weekend I took the utility trailer on a 4 hour drive. No more banging or rattling from the receiver.
Thanks everyone for their input.

[jrobles]

I have been using the Hitch Vise for over a year now. It is a great product. It helps to keep my 19' toy hauler from rattling around. I tow it on my 04 Tundra. I previously used one of the Roadmaster anti rattle devices and found them to be light duty and a little over priced. I now have that on my wife's 02 Highlander in witch I keep a tow ball permanently attached, helps when being rear ended.

If the Hitch Vise fits your vehicle you will not be disappointed as it is a heavy duty anti rattle device and has served me well in towing my trailer, tow dollies and bike rack. I am very interested in the second anti-rattle device you found as my dad needs a medium duty anti-rattle device for his hitch, good price. I will likely order my dad that one. By the way, I have a OEM hitch on my Tundra.