Drl

[balot64]

Maybe somebody can help me out about my DRL, I retrofit my 2010 highlander limited with Morimoto mini D2S. Everything are working fine, DRL work with the retrofit. I'm thinking if I can divert the DRL signal to my foglight or another lights like LED to make it as DRL instead of my headlight. Whats on my mind is using a relay. Here is what on my mind.

85 coil - voltage supply coming from parking light to energize the relay
86 ground
30 connected to high beam source/wire
87a(N/C) will connect to foglight or LED as DRL
87(N/O) connected to headlight (hi beam projector)




Engine start, DRL on, high beam low voltage (DRL) from 30 to 87a (foglight), relay not energize.
Engine start, head light/parking light on, 30 to 87, circuit for high beam is close, relay is energize.

The only way I think to make this work is, if the parking light is not on during daylight while the DRL is on. If I can ask somebody to check this wiring diagram and tell me what you think. Also if somebody can check if the DRL is on, the parking light are on or off? I wish I can check it myself but I can't because I'm currently deployed overseas and the car is parked at home.


Balot64

[sweeneyp]

Originally Posted by balot64

Maybe somebody can help me out about my DRL, I retrofit my 2010 highlander limited with Morimoto mini D2S. Everything are working fine, DRL work with the retrofit. I'm thinking if I can divert the DRL signal to my foglight or another lights like LED to make it as DRL instead of my headlight. Whats on my mind is using a relay. Here is what on my mind.

85 coil - voltage supply coming from parking light to energize the relay
86 ground
30 connected to high beam source/wire
87a(N/C) will connect to foglight or LED as DRL
87(N/O) connected to headlight (hi beam projector)



Engine start, DRL on, high beam low voltage (DRL) from 30 to 87a (foglight), relay not energize.
Engine start, head light/parking light on, 30 to 87, circuit for high beam is close, relay is energize.

The only way I think to make this work is, if the parking light is not on during daylight while the DRL is on. If I can ask somebody to check this wiring diagram and tell me what you think. Also if somebody can check if the DRL is on, the parking light are on or off? I wish I can check it myself but I can't because I'm currently deployed overseas and the car is parked at home.


Balot64

Well for starters the DRL is on the low beam circuit not the highbeam according to my documents. I've been looking for a way to disable DRL's too but toyota made if difficult as the DRL's are built into the light control circuit box, and not a separate relay.
So let me get this straight, you are going to activate the relay with the parking lights, and use it to feed the power to the fogs, but when the parking lights activate the relay full power goes to the low beam? I had never thought about that, it seems like it would work.
--------------
-So basically have pin30 be + in and 86 ground.
-Non energized the low beam DRL power will pass straight through to 87a to power any DRL you want to feed (fogs/leds/etc...)
-As soon as your parking lights energize pin 85, its going to feed full 12v power to pin 87.
This will divert your DRL's, but you will need to rewire any wire-harness you have on your ballasts as the headlight circuit needs to be completely separated from the ballasts. I'm assuming you have an H4 wire-harness?
--------------
-You will need to feed the ground wire of the H4 socket (on the wireharness) to the DRL relay ground (or battery -)
-feed the 87 pin into the wire harness h4 low beam socket
-then feed your high-beam wires from oem socket to wire-harness socket (or if your like me I wired mine straight into the solenoid, so you could tap in there if you did that)

And if you don't run it off an h4 wire-harness, you will need to probably make one with a diode to allow high beam power to travel to low beam power when you activate the high beam circuit.

Great idea and good luck with the install if you do this

EDIT: I just thought about this. If you want to disable DRL and NOT power a new DRL, never connect anything to the 87a terminal and the power going to the OEM drl will never go anywhere. That way we can keep the auto headlight setting without having DRL's, instead of having it set on DRL off setting like I do. As my projectors behind my grill have crapped out on me (bowls heat damaged/corroded to hell...) I now have an extra wireharness/relay so I'm going to give this a shot, I'll post results if you don't beat me to it

[balot64]

Well for starters the DRL is on the low beam circuit not the highbeam according to my documents. I've been looking for a way to disable DRL's too but toyota made if difficult as the DRL's are built into the light control circuit box, and not a separate relay.
I thought it was the high beam, anyway low or high beam circuit my goal is to divert the DRL circuit to foglight or LED so I still have the DRL rather than turn it off by the dealer.

So let me get this straight, you are going to activate the relay with the parking lights, and use it to feed the power to the fogs, but when the parking lights activate the relay full power goes to the low beam? I had never thought about that, it seems like it would work.
Yes.
--------------
-So basically have pin30 be + in and 86 ground.
Yes.

-Non energized the low beam DRL power will pass straight through to 87a to power any DRL you want to feed (fogs/leds/etc...)
Yes.

-As soon as your parking lights energize pin 85, its going to feed full 12v power to pin 87.
Yes.

This will divert your DRL's, but you will need to rewire any wire-harness you have on your ballasts as the headlight circuit needs to be completely separated from the ballasts. I'm assuming you have an H4 wire-harness?
I have a H4 wire harness. What I need are H4 male harness to plug in to vehicle headlight harness and H4 female harness for retrofit to plug in. I can put the relay in between the H4 male and female harness, in that way I don't need to mess with the vehicle and retrofit harness, just plug and play.
--------------
-You will need to feed the ground wire of the H4 socket (on the wireharness) to the DRL relay ground (or battery -)
Yes, or make it easy, ground it to the body.

-feed the 87 pin into the wire harness h4 low beam socket
87 is going to retrofit.

-then feed your high-beam wires from oem socket to wire-harness socket (or if your like me I wired mine straight into the solenoid, so you could tap in there if you did that)
Use H4 male and female harness.

And if you don't run it off an h4 wire-harness, you will need to probably make one with a diode to allow high beam power to travel to low beam power when you activate the high beam circuit.
This was been taking care of by TRS harness.

Great idea and good luck with the install if you do this
Thanks. If this works, I will still have vehicle DRL circuit untouch and save the Morimoto mini D2S from being on every time the engine start.

EDIT: I just thought about this. If you want to disable DRL and NOT power a new DRL, never connect anything to the 87a terminal and the power going to the OEM drl will never go anywhere. That way we can keep the auto headlight setting without having DRL's, instead of having it set on DRL off setting like I do. As my projectors behind my grill have crapped out on me (bowls heat damaged/corroded to hell...) I now have an extra wireharness/relay so I'm going to give this a shot, I'll post results if you don't beat me to it
Yes, you dont need to put anything on 87a. I still want to have DRL lights because this is my wife vehicle. When I come home next year from deployment. I will get me a Tacoma offroad for myself to play.

BTW, this will only work if the parking light is OFF while the DRL circuit ON. Can you please verify it. Thanks.

Balot64

[sweeneyp]

BTW, this will only work if the parking light is OFF while the DRL circuit ON. Can you please verify it. Thanks.

Well I will do this fix/mod tomorrow, but I can tell you the parking light is off with the DRL's. I had wired my fog lights into my parking lights (relay connected not directly wired) so they would remain on during high beam. The relay's were never tripped during DRL's.

[sweeneyp]

Well I can confirm DRL is on the low beam circuit.
My relay/wire-harness I had made for those old projectors I used was a 4 pin relay instead of a 5 pin relay. It had no 87a (which worked for me as I had no new DRL to power).

I can say that it works perfectly.

The usual + and - pins were used. I tapped into the + parking light line for the turn on signal. I removed the low beam spade from the TRS wireharness male H4 socket and used a terminal to connect that straight up to the 87 terminal.

So on the auto lighting setting has no DRL's now and when I cover the light sensor on the dash the auto headlights auto engage the low beams just like it should. Everything works just like normal without the DRL's now, so go for the install, it works!

[balot64]

Thank you for the confirmation, when I go home next year I can work or divert my DRL. Now I need to find a good fog light or LED if I decide not to use the factory foglights.

What else can we do on this vehicle?


Balot64

[sweeneyp]

Originally Posted by balot64

What else can we do on this vehicle?


Balot64

haha well I always have a list of things to do.
Some time later this year (most likely early next year) I'm going to be doing a full retrofit (the mini d2s's got my confidence up, but their performance isn't on par with the OEM ones) to either FX-R's or most likely TL's. Just a matter of picking up some used (damged) headlight housings off ebay, so I can use its reflector bowl to do the retrofit on and not damage the original. Plus its a hell of a lot cheaper that way(I got the driver one already, 24 bucks + shipping , only 1 insignificant mounting tab is broken, gotta love ebay )

[balot64]

How's your blazer foglights? I'm thinking of getting one like that from TRS FOR $45.00 to make it my DRL. Probably the same way you mounted behind the grill. since DRL voltage is less than 12 volts DC, I will keep the regular bulb.

[sweeneyp]

Originally Posted by balot64

How's your blazer foglights? I'm thinking of getting one like that from TRS FOR $45.00 to make it my DRL. Probably the same way you mounted behind the grill. since DRL voltage is less than 12 volts DC, I will keep the regular bulb.

-Well for starters the projectors behind my grill were Pilot Fog projectors from autozone. And they were touching the grill and AC condenser behind it. Anything longer wouldn't fit, and the blazers are longer than those pilot projectors.

-My pilot fog projectors have serious corrosion and heat damage from being in the grill, and were removed this weekend (Warning for those using Pilot Projector Fogs).

-The Blazers were in my fogs and I just took them out and put my OEM fogs back in yesterday (with halogen not a PnP kit). I had noticed the the output was far dimmer than normal so I took them out to check the bowl. The driver side... well the chrome was clear gone, it was shining on bare metal, and the passenger one the chrome was bubbling off. Now on my fog retrofit the bowl and back of the projector were completely exposed to the air.

-if you look at HIDPlanet, there are LOTS of threads on heat damage on the blazers unless they are constantly exposed to moving airflow and never run while the vehicle is at a standstill (didn't find these till after I had bought mine from TRS ). Also 55 watts in them are a no go as they come with 27 watt halogen 880 bulbs.

-For reference I was using 35 watt HID's in both the blazers and Pilot Projectors. I'm looking at picking up a set of ford fusion fog projectors or Hella DE's to re-retrofit my fogs as they have good reviews on HIDPlanet and no indication of heat damage during use.

Honestly I would not recommend the blazers if your looking at long term use. They perform great, but don't last. Does your HL still have halogen fogs? you could just re-route the DRL's to it. I'm looking at getting a set of these (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...5-bm_specs.htm) to use as my DRL's since it will fit between the grill and I already have brackets that will hold it there from my Pilot Projectors.

[balot64]

Yeah, My HL fog light still has halogen light bulb. I'm trying not to touch it because I'm not the one whose driving the HL, This HL replaced my 2000 ODY. Its family car/weekend warrior/for long drive, stays inside the garage most of the time.

So the blazer is too long to fit behind the grill ha. Do you think the hella de will fit behind the grill? I saw it on Summit racing for $50.00 a peice with no wiring harness, I think this are cheaper than Ebay if they are the same, they have different part number.

The DRL-CW5 series Daytime Running light kit from superbrightled.com, do you think it will last? I saw one also from Lightwerks.com (I Think) Cost a bit over $100 I think. I wish I can afford the Phillips.

I guess I'm back to zero again.

Balot64

[sweeneyp]

well the pilot was around 4 and a quarter inches long and with the hid bulb sticking out a little past the end, it was about 4.4-4.5" long. The blazers are 5.3" long and the Micro DE are 5.5" long, so that blows those out of the water haha

I don't know how well the DRL's from superbrightleds will last. I have used lots of their led 168 and 31mm festoon bulbs on the inside of my HL and never have had them fail. But this is something different than a simple bulb so I can't really provide help there. I would definitely favor the phillips over the superbrightled one when it comes to reliability, but I'm like you, $100 is WAY to much and completely out of budget. I mean it looks like a good housing(water tight and heatsinks) but things can look solid and not be.

It seems something like those LED's are the only feasible option at this point when it comes to DRL's.

[jmuhammad]

Originally Posted by sweeneyp

-
-My pilot fog projectors have serious corrosion and heat damage from being in the grill, and were removed this weekend (Warning for those using Pilot Projector Fogs).

-if you look at HIDPlanet, there are LOTS of threads on heat damage on the blazers unless they are constantly exposed to moving airflow and never run while the vehicle is at a standstill (didn't find these till after I had bought mine from TRS ).

Is the temperature between the HL grill and radiator THAT hot 330ºF (165.6ºC) ??? Or is it the light bulb in the seal projector. 'Cuz I was going to place something behind the grill but now... I'm surprised because it is open to the outside and is there (the grill opening) as an air intake.

[sweeneyp]

Originally Posted by jmuhammad

Is the temperature between the HL grill and radiator THAT hot 330ºF (165.6ºC) ??? Or is it the light bulb in the seal projector. 'Cuz I was going to place something behind the grill but now... I'm surprised because it is open to the outside and is there (the grill opening) as an air intake.

I measured the temperatures on my kitchen counter, not on the car. The whole front of the projector was off when I was reading the temperature. It was only the bowl. I put the probe halfway between the middle of the hid bulb and the bowl and got the 330 degrees F. It would have gotten higher if my probe didn't start melting and I had pulled it out. The housing sat around 120 after a couple min's of running.But it was slowly creeping up. But this is just the bowl, it was not sealed. It was completly open air. So it will definitely be higher temps sealed.
Plus I was using only 35 watts, not 55 watts (like the halogens it came with)

I was shocked at the temps I was reading/damage I saw. I had always figured that their location in the grill would prevent this.

[balot64]

Sweeneyp,
Hows the DRL wiring set up? Do you have any problem since you used a relay to disable the DRL? I have a chance to get home in a couple of days and I will install Phillips DRL 4 led for my DRL.

Balot64

[sweeneyp]

its been working great. Only issue I've had is that I used a cheap relay and it failed on me and since I didn't use a inline fuse (I was drawing power from headlight circuit) it blew the OEM fuse.... But besides that its been working great, no DRL's and auto function works 100%. Just don't use cheap autozone aux relay's, I went back and ordered one of those Morimoto 80 amp Cube relay's from TRS since I never have had one of those fail.