Help removing panel between rear window and hatch

[Caterpillar 60]

HL 2010 w/ 3rd row

Toyota TIS appears to be down/unavailable (techinfo toyota com) and I am stuck. I need to remove the molding between the rear window and the hatch (left side). Traildust's photos of swapping the 3rd row seats and another doc on replacing the tail lights gave me some help, but I need more.

I have the lower molding unbuttoned at the hatch area, the nut holding the upper molding against the hatch frame out, and the upper molding partly pulled away at the hatch end. How do I get at the remaining retaining pins (looks like there are one or tow towards the window) and wiggle the molding out? Do I need to loosen up the whole lower molding, too? How to pop the cover over the wheel well (cup holder area) then?

Any help appreciated.
-Cat

[TrailDust]

Would it be possible for you to post a picture or two in order to get a better idea of the specific parts/locations you're describing? Also, did you download the technical document provided by summerwind that details the removal of the side panels?

[sweeneyp]

Are you talking about the interior side panels or the hatch interior panels? Definitly got me confused on which one your talking about haha.

[sweeneyp]

Scratch what I last posted, your talking about the panel between the glass and the hatch, that plastic interior panel and the one over the wheel well... i see now. I'm going to PM you a document (TIS) that shows how to remove every interior panel back there (its actually a guide to remove the headliner, but you have take all those panels out to remove the headliner. It shows a step by step process to remove all of them (starting at ~step 65-70'ish).
Let me know if this is the wrong panels
Good Luck

[Caterpillar 60]

That doc is exactly what I was looking for, much appreciated! Apparently I want to remove the "Roof Side Inner Garnish Assembly" (sounds like kitchen prep instructions). What a pita, the rear side wells, and decking come out, so the deck trim (big side panel) can get get loosened up and then you can try to wiggle that critter out w/o removing the whole big side panel. The snaps that hold the two garnish assemblies together are stubborn--I hope they go back together snugly.

[sweeneyp]

Side garnish haha yea it does sound a little like cooking stuff

Yea i was looking at the steps, looked like a major pita. Curious what are you trying to do that requires you to take all of those off?? That sounds like a major project

[Caterpillar 60]

Dent repair prep. Car vs tree branch from the storm the blew through NE. Classic 'if only I had parked a foot forward.' Maybe I am paranoid, but outside of the dealer, I am never sure a shop is going to pop things apart well--not that I will, but then it is my fault!--or even pull things apart to work the dent from the inside, vs a deep coat of bondo. Hopefully it saves them some time w/o insulting them, said to the shop.

In the end, the back and side wells come out, third seat comes out, large side garnish loosened up, the upper garnish then gets pulled out a bit and down, then fully out. Pull seat belt all the way out and put a clip to keep it from retracting. Anyone pulling a seat or seat belt--retorque to spec on install.

This is the first vehicle where I've had to dismantle almost the entire back to get at the light and light area on the frame. Looking around, seems par for vehicles these days.

At this point, I may leave the 3rd seat out. I'd rather have the space and get the proper cargo hold parts over time, or at a yard.

[sweeneyp]

Originally Posted by Caterpillar 60

Dent repair prep. Car vs tree branch from the storm the blew through NE. Classic 'if only I had parked a foot forward.'

At this point, I may leave the 3rd seat out. I'd rather have the space and get the proper cargo hold parts over time, or at a yard.

Yikes, that's no fun what you had to go through. I have to park my HL outside and that's one thing I'm always paranoid of whenever a big storm rolls through. But I'm like you, not a fan of letting non dealer shops work on my car (unless I know for a fact they are good).

But you aren't the only person who has taken out the 3rd row and left it out. A few people here (Traildust) has swapped their 3rd row for the cargo bin that comes on non-3rd row equipped vehicles. It would be nice to free up that space, especially considering I think I've used my 3rd row once in almost 2 years. I've looked online the OEM cargo bin parts are expensive (like $400+ if I remember correctly) if you look at an online Toyota dealership store. At this point you should be able to find highlanders in junkyards, but most come with 3rd-rows so its definitely going to be hit or miss trying to find one with the cargo bin.

[TrailDust]

Originally Posted by Caterpillar 60

At this point, I may leave the 3rd seat out. I'd rather have the space and get the proper cargo hold parts over time, or at a yard.

Just throwing this out as a suggestion, but you may consider adding your own sound-proofing material behind those panels when you reinstall them. I bought a simple, dense foam and cut out pieces to fit each section as I reinstalled. I didn't do it because I thought the Highlander was unusually noisy (it's not) but rather because I could. I'm a huge fan of a quiet ride and I figured why the hell not while I had the opportunity. Definitely made a difference and is most noticeable on rainy days when water in the rear wheel wells adds a lot of ambient sound to the interior of any vehicle. Anyway, just food for thought.

[Caterpillar 60]

Originally Posted by TrailDust

Just throwing this out as a suggestion, but you may consider adding your own sound-proofing material behind those panels when you reinstall them....

Yes! The the padding is a bit meager, I was thinking about matting, but foam would be much easier. I was surprised that the floor didn't have more sound deadening--light coat of rhino liner?

Now if you never wanted to take the panels off again, unleash a can of GreatStuff foam behind the panels. (Just kidding in case anyone gets any ideas, it would probably screw with the venting and you would need to derate the electrical.)