Got a new 2012 and the check engine light comes on. Wife brings to dealer and they say it's probably the gas usE super. I said what a crOck of shit. No problem for a week then today engine light back on and the trac off light is on! Brand new and going in again anyone had this issue I'm sure you guys use regular gas. Anyone??
Last edited by Master.Legend; 11-12-2011 at 04:37 PM.
yep I use regular on mine. Isn't super/premium only used on high compression engines? The 2GR-FE isn't one of those... Anyway you can find out what error is given by the CEL? (the actual error, not what the dealer says)
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
In typical dealer fashion, they're lazy morons. Did they scan the codes? Dealers love to blame everything on "you put in bad gas" or "you put in the wrong gas." Tell them to stop dicking you around and figure out what is tripping the CEL and then fix it. Perhaps try another dealer (though they all avoid doing warranty work) to see if someone somewhere is interested in figuring it out.
Got a new 2012 and the check engine light comes on. Wife brings to dealer and they say it's probably the gas usE super. I said what a crOck of shit. No problem for a week then today engine light back on and the trac off light is on! Brand new and going in again anyone had this issue I'm sure you guys use regular gas. Anyone??
New vehicles use a sealed fuel system that is different than ever three or four years ago. It is very common for a CEL to illuminate if a gas cap is not properly sealed when refueling. It even happened to me. I did not believe it at first, but it was proven to be just a poorly tightened cap.
Thanks guys!!!! So I can buy the tool to check the CEL at where? Is there a diy on how to read and pull code linked? Thanks
from what I understand those scan tools are expensive. Autozone (and places like it) will scan for error codes for free usually. Always a possibility instead of buying a new tool.
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
If you look on the SEARS automotive tools page you'll find 3 scan tools ranging in price form $90 to $260. In this day and age of computerized vehicles a half-way decent scan tool is a good item to have even if you use it only once.
My $0.02!
MD
__________________ In memoriam NYPD DAOS / NYS OIG #77 '12 Highlander SE - Sizzling Crimson Mica / Black Interior / V6 / 4WD + Tow Prep Pkg; OEM Mud Guards; OEM All-Weather Mats; Camry horns; Weathertech Vent Visors & AVS Bugflector II.
'09 RAV4 Base - gone.
'06 Highlander Base - gone. R.I.P Seattle Mike / Joe S.
I paid about $100 for a pretty decent OBDII scan tool that reads and erases codes. Don't pull the battery cables to erase codes, for those that read that elsewhere. It solves nothing.
It's a handy little device that I use only once in a while, but when I do, it's great. My old Subaru had a CEL come on while we were on a trip, and I pulled over, read the code (stupid rear O2 sensor) and knew right away that it's a common fault that has no effect on the vehicle operation, zapped the code, and continued on our way.
Even if your car is under warranty, etc, it's great to know what's going on before talking to the dealer. Most dealers try to blow off investigative warranty jobs with BS, so if you know the codes (and the possible triggering mechanisms) going in, they're far less likely to BS you.
The CEL will turn itself off if a certain number of driving cycles have been achieved without the triggering problem. I'd drive it for a while and see if the CEL comes back on, and if not, just have the code read when it's in for routine service. (if the CEL is off, the code is still stored, no worries)
I paid about $100 for a pretty decent OBDII scan tool that reads and erases codes. Don't pull the battery cables to erase codes, for those that read that elsewhere. It solves nothing.
It's a handy little device that I use only once in a while, but when I do, it's great. My old Subaru had a CEL come on while we were on a trip, and I pulled over, read the code (stupid rear O2 sensor) and knew right away that it's a common fault that has no effect on the vehicle operation, zapped the code, and continued on our way.
Even if your car is under warranty, etc, it's great to know what's going on before talking to the dealer. Most dealers try to blow off investigative warranty jobs with BS, so if you know the codes (and the possible triggering mechanisms) going in, they're far less likely to BS you.
The CEL will turn itself off if a certain number of driving cycles have been achieved without the triggering problem. I'd drive it for a while and see if the CEL comes back on, and if not, just have the code read when it's in for routine service. (if the CEL is off, the code is still stored, no worries)
Awsome where do I plug in? Is there a diy on how to read codes on this site for highlander? What's a good brand to buy?
Thanks
My advice: take it back to the dealer. Set an appointment. When you set it make sure to tell them you want to speak to the manager when you get there. Ask to speak to a service manager. Explain your concern about multiple issues with the CEL. Insist a Master or Master Diagnostic Technician work on your car.
If they refuse any of these steps, leave and call Toyota Care that day. If possible, have them find another nearby dealer.
Be willing to leave it or take a loaner car, the next steps take a while. Being in a mad rush for your car makes a shaky service department worse. Ask for a printout of the dtc and freeze frame from techstream, not just a receipt, doing so sends both to TMS. If they find nothing, insist they open a case with Toyota Technical Assistance. Toyota is very honed in on initial quality right now. You also have lemon law working in your favor. Doing nothing with the dealer with this issue is detrimental to you.
Finally, be rational. Being pushy never helps. Be firm and direct,yet reasonable, this allows you to be in control.Following the steps I gave you will subtly tell them your the one driving the bus, you don't need to embellish it.
Last edited by TrailDust; 01-08-2012 at 02:01 AM.
Reason: Pimping your services removed.
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