It is my understanding that you only need to have a 5 pin trailer wire hookup for surge brake back up ability. I purchased the 4 pin to 5 pin coverter. How do you acess the rear tailight to get to the back up light and what color is the wire for the back up light to tie into?
Thanks
yes, the 5th pin is usually for surge brakes. Its fairly simple to get to the wires to tap. Take a look at this pic (I "borrowed" from another thread)
Directly to the right of the one, there is an opening, normally there is a panel there. At the top of that panel there is a small gap (big enough for a flathead screwdriver), stick something into that gap and give it a twist/pull, and that panel should pop off reveal the opening shown in the picture. Now you have to reach into the opening and you will be able to feel the 3 bulbs on the back of the taillight, find the correct one (you can wiggle the bulb and look through the tail light to see which one is moving (also it will only have 2 wires going to it, the brake bulb will have 3)). You will have to unplug that light to have enough room/slack to work.
I'm sure the kit came with a splice/tap connector? you will need to tap the backup + line with that to feed the 5th pin on the trailer harness. Toyota is pretty good about making the ground noticeable. By that I mean the ground cables are usually black and white, or grey something along that nature, and the + line is usually a solid color. (for example my ground on my 08 is black and white, while the + are red and blue (depending on side)). Then you can route the wire through the cargo bin to come out the back of the tailgate when in use.
Good luck
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
Last edited by sweeneyp; 01-06-2012 at 11:21 PM.
Reason: typos...
The Following User Says Thank You to sweeneyp For This Useful Post:
No it does have the tow package down under ther rear. If I am not mistaken, I thought you need a 5 pin to be able to back up a trailer with surge brakes. I bought a 4 pin to 5 pin adaptr but you have to tie the 5th wire into the back up lights. At least that is what I understood and I admit, I do not have alot of knowledge about that. thanks
Now I am confused ( my normal state anyway so it does not really matter). I am under the impression that the term surge brakes are those that a trailer company like U-Haul uses. That style is totally independent of the car and works only by applying brakes to the trailer when the trailer is "pushing" the car.
The surge system used by U-Haul does have its problems.. while backing up the car is in effect pushing the trailer and activating the brakes. I can see a system where one would tie into the backup light source of the car to send a signal to the surge brakes on the trailer to "disengage". But I do not think this is what the poster is after.. I could be wrong
Reading the post again I likely am wrong
No it does have the tow package down under ther rear. If I am not mistaken, I thought you need a 5 pin to be able to back up a trailer with surge brakes. I bought a 4 pin to 5 pin adaptr but you have to tie the 5th wire into the back up lights. At least that is what I understood and I admit, I do not have alot of knowledge about that. thanks
your right, the standard is a 4 pin and it only controls turns and brakes lights. Hydraulic Surge brakes work like normal brake pedals do. There is a master cylinder on the neck of the trailer near where the coupler is. When you decelerate the trailer moves forward into the coupler which then activates/compresses the master cylinder, activating the brakes on the trailer. Its a cheaper alternative to having a brake controller (brake controller if you have electric brakes, 5th pin if you have hydraulic). If you go in reverse with a trailer with surge brakes (and no 5th pin), you will compress master cylinder as you back up and it will activate the trailer brakes. The 5th pin tells the surge brakes to ignore the master clyinder's signal/pressure and allow the trailer to move.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph6410
Now I am confused ( my normal state anyway so it does not really matter). I am under the impression that the term surge brakes are those that a trailer company like U-Haul uses. That style is totally independent of the car and works only by applying brakes to the trailer when the trailer is "pushing" the car.
The surge system used by U-Haul does have its problems.. while backing up the car is in effect pushing the trailer and activating the brakes. I can see a system where one would tie into the backup light source of the car to send a signal to the surge brakes on the trailer to "disengage". But I do not think this is what the poster is after.. I could be wrong
Reading the post again I likely am wrong
You are right, he wants the 5th pin to deactivate the surge brakes. Uhaul uses 4 pins, but they still use hydraulic surge brakes on their big trailers. I don't know how Uhaul avoids the back up problems (since they don't use the 5th pin, and I've never used one of their big 6x12 trailers that have it) I guess you just have to back up slowly to be careful and not activate the brakes, or there may be some manual way to deactivate the brakes on the trailer itself for reverse (some kind of pin to prevent the master cylinder compression maybe)
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
Yes, I want to tie the 5th wire into the back up lights to activate/or deactivate the solenoid that will make sure the surge brakes do not engage while backing up.
I am learning on the go. I did just install the Curt Hitch in about 1 hr and I have never installed a hitch before. I thought it was easy. Now onto the lights.
Thanks for all the help!!
The solenoid thing is new to me. When I had a boat trailer the surge brake had a mechanical lever that you moved to lock the system to allow you to back up.
Would be interested in knowing how much current the solenoid draws and if it would cause a problem with the brake light circuit
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2008 Highlander Limited AWD, Silver, SmartKey, VSC/TRAK, Bluetooth, Remote Start, No Nav, Tow package/hitch/color matched fascia, roof rack cross rails, Color keyed mud guards, Camry trumpet horns
Last edited by summerwind; 01-07-2012 at 03:09 PM.
Its a solenoid valve that just cuts the pressure after the master cylinder. I can't imagine it being more than an amp of current (I googled it and couldn't any specs on them, the manufacture's didn't list amp load). I don't think that thing would need 12-14 watts to close the valve, The reverse lights appear to be on a 15 amp circuit/fuse so I can't see the extra temporary load hurting it.
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
I got the hitch and lights all hooked in about 2 hours. That was better than I thought considering I have never done it before. Thanks for the help from this site.
Its a solenoid valve that just cuts the pressure after the master cylinder. I can't imagine it being more than an amp of current (I googled it and couldn't any specs on them, the manufacture's didn't list amp load). I don't think that thing would need 12-14 watts to close the valve, The reverse lights appear to be on a 15 amp circuit/fuse so I can't see the extra temporary load hurting it.
Neat!
This must not be a feature on a boat trailer.
I remember the first time I backed my boat trailer in the water.
I forgot to disconnect the cable and the minute I hit the brakes when the brake lights were in the water ...POW I blew a fuse.
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2008 Highlander Limited AWD, Silver, SmartKey, VSC/TRAK, Bluetooth, Remote Start, No Nav, Tow package/hitch/color matched fascia, roof rack cross rails, Color keyed mud guards, Camry trumpet horns
This must not be a feature on a boat trailer.
I remember the first time I backed my boat trailer in the water.
I forgot to disconnect the cable and the minute I hit the brakes when the brake lights were in the water ...POW I blew a fuse.
hahaha I have done the same thing as you when we used to have our boat I hit the brakes/lights, heard a pop, then immediate cursing under breath follows pesky short circuits...how I hate you
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2008 Black Highlander Limited FWD
Nav (with override), Rear DVD | 900+ Watt Sound System | Headlight & Fog HID Projector Retrofit | LED Interior/Puddle Lights | Rattletrap Sound Deadener | Dueler HL Alenzas 255/55R19's |Updated Modification List
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my normal state anyway so it does not really matter). I am under the impression that the term surge brakes are those that a trailer company like U-Haul uses. That style is totally independent of the car and works only by applying brakes to the trailer when the trailer is "pushing" the car. 
I hit the brakes/lights, heard a pop, then immediate cursing under breath follows 
pesky short circuits...how I hate you
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