#2 first.. you will definitely need someone to upload the id's of the new sensors into your HL.. the dealer or tire shop will do this for a fee.. and you will need to have it done again when you change back to your summer tires. The HL can only store one set (5) codes at one time.
#1.. I don't know but your dealer of tire shop will know right away if the codes are compatible.

 

This is a replacement video I made, but may help you see what it's like.
If you get Techstream you can program your own TPMS sensors
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...8-2013/1194330-diy-tpms-repair-w-techstream-sensor-replacement.html#post9927706

Let me know if that helps any..

 

Ralph & funman - thanks for the great info! It's been a looong time since I've owned a Toyota, so I need to learn way more than what the basic owner's manual tells about all these systems. (After owning a bunch of Hondas, Acuras, and Chevy Trucks, it was time for a change.)
The video and the basic info on Techstream are extremely helpful. I heard of Techstream but did not know what it did. I understand how Techstream works on the sensors, as I once owned an Ateq Quickset tool to upload the sensor ids on my CR-Vs. (But, since it did not work, I returned it.)

I guess I'm disappointed in that my 13 HL Limited has a half baked TPMS implementation, just like all my G3 (07-11) CR-Vs. We owned an 08 & still own a 11 CR-V, and the TPMS system is implemented the same way. I use complete sets of winter and summer wheels/tires for all of our regular drivers. They all have OE TPMS sensors, if called for. For the G3 CR-Vs, the sensor ids need to be uploaded by the dealer or a tire shop every time I want to change the wheel/tire package. On the other hand, Acura got it right in my 08 TSX. When I swap the wheel/tire package, the car quickly "learns" the new sensors and the TPMS system functions normally after a short drive. No manual TPMS sensor id uploads, no manual intervention. That's the full and correct implementation!

I guess it's time to look into Techstream. Where does one find Techstream?

Thanks!

 

, as I once owned an Ateq Quickset tool to upload the sensor ids on my CR-Vs. (But, since it did not work, I returned it.)

If.. you are going to swap more than a couple of times it may pay to get that Quickset gadget back. I bought mine 5 years ago and use it twice a year with no issues. Do.. remember to upload the current set of ID's before you switch though.. else you will be paying someone to read and load the ID's from the summer set. I understand you have the ID's for the winter set so you should be able to load those manually into the Quickset.
This all hinges of course on the compatibility of the sensors.. From what I understand the "Techstream" route is considerably more costly than the Quickset way.. and to fully use the Techstream will require some expensive software as well.

 

Hmmm.... I may have to revisit the Ateq Quickset tool option, as if I need it for the 13-HL, and I can get it to work on the 11-CRV, then that would be worth it to me. I bought the last one for use on the 08-CRV. I spent hours on my own, and hours on the phone with tech support, trying to get it to work. I could download the existing sensor Ids from the ecu, but could not get any new sensor ids to upload. That part of the process would never work. So I returned it for a refund.
Yes - I do understand the need to download (& save) the existing sensor IDs before making any changes to the ids in the ecu.
Thanks for the good info.

 

Techstream can be found online in the "usual places" for about $30
Because the legal version of Techstream is like $1500 per year; a version that only costs $30 is surely pirated.
So because we assume it's pirated, we can't tell you where to find pirated software, as it's against forum rules,
but with a quick search I'm sure you can find it very easily
Mine with the needed cable was about $35ish

And this is the EXACT same software the dealer uses,
so you can do virtually everything a dealer can do from programming keys, wireless remotes, diagnostics, etc..\

Personally I would no longer own a car without this software,
it puts the ability to fix issues back in the hands of owners,
and no longer are we held hostage to insane shop and dealer prices!!

 

Thanks for all the help! I've got a good understanding now on how my TPMS system works, and how/what I need to update it based on my use of winter and summer wheel/tire sets.

 

Updating this thread now that I've successfully updated the sensor IDs today, this way:

Got my basic Toyota TPMS training in this, and other TN threads. TPMS is not new to me, but Toyota TPMS is.

Picked up Techstream in one of the suggested "usual places" for around $25. Tried to find the one with the newest release.

Installed per instructions on a Win 7, 32 bit machine.

Connected Techstream up to the 13 HL. I recorded the 5 sensor ids that were in the ecu - 4 are in my summer wheels. I recently had the summer tires dismounted and I now have those sensors in hand. The ids on the sensors match those I recorded from the TPMS ecu display. The only one I do not have in hand is the one in the full sized spare tire, but the real time pressure display suggests it is working properly.

Updated the ecu with the winter wheel/tire/sensor ids. These sensors were last used on a 2014 Venza. The update went smoothly, TPMS low pressure light was turned off, no trouble codes reported.

BAM - project complete! Fast, easy, and economical, all because this info is available on TN!

:thumbsup:

 

Updated the ecu with the winter wheel/tire/sensor ids. These sensors were last used on a 2014 Venza. The update went smoothly, TPMS low pressure light was turned off, no trouble codes reported. :thumbsup:

Would you mind sharing which version of Techstream and which cable you used? A few of us are having trouble getting TPMS ID codes to register. Thanks!

 

I spoke with a local tire shop (called them) and they said $50-$60 per sensor if it needs to be replaced. Sounds like a decent price ? my car is almost 9 years old. Camry XLE 07, 80k miles.

 

They will use generic garbage sensors at the tire shop.
I bought an OEM one online and then had the tire tire shop install it for free for me...

 

I have used my Techstream package on my 13 HL Ltd successfully 3 times so far (fall, spring, fall). I will use it again this spring when I remove the winter wheels/tires. I installed the software on a Win7 32-bit laptop. When I start up techstream on the laptop it shows that I have Ver 10.10.018. The OBDII connector is labelled Mini-VCI, J2534, Standard OBDII Communication Interface. I did not connect the laptop and/or cable to my 13 HL to provide this info.

When I say the my sensor update process went "smoothly", that's a relative term. This software does not install, or run, without error messages along the way. I reviewed funman's video several times, and then worked with the software to get my sensor id updates to "take". It did take some time getting familiar with the software, it's design, what it does, etc. I do get error messages along the way, but I work around them until I get the sensor update complete.

I have casually watched the posts from those who have not been able to get techstream to work. I think that some, or all, of those having problems are using Win10. I have both Win7 & Win10 laptops, and I installed it on Win7 32-bit as my techstream specifically said to use XP or Win7 32-bit. If you are using Win10, my first suggestion would be to use a Win7 32-bit laptop.

Edit - 4/23/18 - Successfully used my Techstream 10.10.018, w/unlabelled cable, and Win 7 32 bit laptop this weekend to upload my summer wheel/tire sensor ids to the TPMS ECU. This now makes 4 times that I have successfully used the package on my 13 HL.

 

my first suggestion would be to use a Win7 laptop.

99% of Windows 7 machines are 64 bit.
It's REALLY rare to find a 32 bit copy of Windows 7..
I have to use Windows XP for mine.

 

I looked a few months ago at various online offerings and none appeared current nor was 64bit either. One day I'll get something but at that time it all came up blank including cable selection issues as there are different version of it as well.

Yes, I run Win 10 64bit as well which is going to be the case for 99% of you all unless you've pushed it onto an old dinosaur capable of running Win 10 barely if video drivers are available etc. 4GB of Ram is bare min to run it anyway.

 

I have been looking Mini VCI + TIS as well for my recently acquired 2010 HiHy. Going to attempt to recondition the Hybrid battery in the attempt to delay having to replace it - a close to $4k investment :crying:

Ordered this online but then cancelled the order. There is a thread on online where they say that avoid cables with Firmware version 1.4.x and instead try to find a cable with firmware version 2.0.4. After much searching online I saw that few folks are selling both 32 bit and 64 bit versions though the price for 64 bit versions is significantly higher.

Both my laptops have Window 10 64 bit and I was hesitant in buying an older XP laptop just for this purpose.
After much confusion on the Firmware version and the TIS S/W version consideration - I finally ordered from a seller based in US who had a high "xxx sold" count and many people had mentioned that it worked for them on Windows 10 successfully.

Hare Krsna!
Sridhara-syama dasa

 

I bought a 64 bit version but never got it to work correctly,
So I still just use my trusty old Windows XP Laptop

 

I got mine yesterday, installed the TIS software (version 12.xx.xx) as well as the drivers that came along with it.

Realized after the install that the firmware version of the cable was 1.4.1 - which I was avoiding.

Tried it on my son's 1999 ES300 - since my 2010 HiHy being currently undergoing battery reconditioning wasn't an option. Seemed to connect well with that car. However, I have no clue yet how to use the software - need to watch some tutorials to learn that.

Hare Krishna!

Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

 

Ordered a smartkey from amazon listed as used and virgin. I suppose this means that it was used but erased so functions like a virgin / new smartkey. The physical key is uncut - so I need to get it cut at a locksmith.

Anyway, coming to the point, I watched a video of someone programming his smartkey for 2013 RX350. I tried this evening and was able to successfully program the used (new for me) key in about 15 minutes. Tested and it is working fine. So even though the firmware of my cable is 1.4.1 and the software is 12.xx.xx etc, it seems to be compatible and works well.

Hare Krsna!

 

Cloned TPMS sensors work well also

When I bought my 2012 Highlander Limited (stock wheels 19 inch) last summer, I got a set of base Highlander 17 inch rims from a friend who sources parts for an insurance company. They looked brand new (were from a wrecked 2013 model) and came complete with the stock TPMS sensors still installed. When I mounted new winter tires (Blizzaks) in the stock 17 inch size for our rides, I had planned to use the OEM sensors that came with the wheels and hope they were still good. However, I asked about cloneable sensors at my tire shop and they carry a good reliable sensor that they have had good experience with. For fifty bucks a wheel I decided to go for it and had them install their sensors and clone them to the same codes the OEM sensors on my 19 inch rims radiate.

I like it! I can swap back and forth between the summer set and the winter set and the car never even knows anything happened because the sensor codes never change. No need to re-train the TPMS system, I don't need the gear to do it and/or don't need to pay a shop to do it, I just change the wheel and tire sets as needed for the seasons.

My spare tire is virgin - it has never been used. However, it is already 6 years old and is the awful OEM tire that everyone complains about. When I wear out the set of Goodyear Assurance tires on the 19 inch rims I think I will replace them with a set of five summer tires and do a five tire rotation. I will, at that point, need to be careful to use the 19 inch wheel/tire that is currently the spare as the spare in the winter since it is one of the five tire sensors the ECU has memorized. If I use a 19 incher as the spare that is one of the four rims currently in use on the car, it will be in use at the same time it's cloned TPMS sensor on one of the winter tires is in use. I have no idea what the car might do with two sensors with the same code but I would rather not find out. Modern electronics can be weird.

I suppose the other option would be to transfer one of the current Goodyear tires (which are much newer than the OEM spare tire even if worn) onto the spare tier rim and just buy four new summer tires for the four rims currently in use. Decisions, Decisions...........

 

I have never rotated a spare in any of the vehicles I have had in the family for a long time. Typically they are a donut or steelies while the driving are aluminum. Since I also bought used the tires different as well and you don't mix rubber on the road. OK as a spare if you have a flat period and you drive with extra caution etc. Get the flat fixed and put them back where it came from. All the used vehicles I have re sold had their original spare still at over 200k and more on the clock. As long as they are holding air !! A lot aren't for a variety of reasons. Leave them be.

 

All generally true and all pretty much how I've lived my life, spare tire-wise, as well. I just sold my 16 year old 190,000 mile Mustang with the virgin donut spare still in the trunk.

The exception to that is vehicles with four wheel drive or all wheel drive. Most gurus will tell you that it is important to have four same diameter tires on such vehicles, even to the point of replacing all four tires if one tire is damaged beyond repair rather than mixing a full diameter new tire with worn (somewhat smaller diameter) versions of the same tire. With all those differentials you can cause a lot of mechanical wear if you have tires of different diameters on different corners of the same 4WD or AWD vehicle since the various tires rotate a different number of times for the same distance traveled if the diameters are not virtually identical. For that reason many manufacturers of 4WD and AWD vehicles include a full size spare (rather than a donut) so that you will not cause trouble when the spare is mounted. The top line vehicles come with the full size spare being the same wheels as the car rather than a steelie. Such is the case with my Highlander, the spare is an alloy wheel identical to the wheels on the road. Jeeps do that also, for the most part. My AWD Suzuki SX4 used a donut, much to my disappointment. I bought a fifth standard wheel for that car.

So, as a precaution against having one tire damaged beyond repair and needing to replace all four tires, many drivers of 4WD and AWD vehicles (including me) will buy them in sets of five and do a five way rotation to keep the set all worn to the same diameter all the time. Then, if one tire is damaged beyond repair you can use the remaining four as a set and put a used tire on the fifth rim to serve as the spare. For the balance of that set of tires you do a four tire rotation until the set is worn out. Then you start all over again with a set of five new ones and a five way rotation. If you never damage a tire beyond repair you do the five way rotation until replacing the set.

When I do replace a set, I always keep one dismounted tire from the old set and put it in storage. That way if I have to revert to a set of four tires due to a destroyed tire, I have a useable tire to mount on the fifth rim which becomes the spare until time to replace the set that is still in use as a four tire set.

Because I like to do a true five tire rotation (all five tires rotate around to all positions on the car to keep the wear even) I try to always buy non-directional tires or assymetrical tires (which need a certain side of the tire on the outside but can rotate in either direction). This allows a proper diagonal rotation pattern. If one has directional tires one cannot do a full rotation pattern. This also means your spare tire can only be used on one side of the car for extended running due to the directional needs. (When being used as a spare, a directional tire can be mounted on the "wrong side" of the car and rotate the wrong way for brief periods, but it's not a good idea to run a directional tire backwards in the long term.) If you have directional tires a five way rotation has three tires rotating along one side of the car with the third tire as the spare. The other two tires rotate back and forth on the other side of the car and accumulate more miles than the set of three, but it seems to stay close enough on wear that people do it that way. I prefer tires that can do a true five tire rotation pattern and there are many good non-directional and assymetric tires out there to pick from.

Rather than buy five rims for my winter tires I just do a set of four tires and wheels and take my chances, the winter tires are not on the car for that much of each year anyhow and we drive less during that period. So far I have been lucky on that bet.

The four tire rotation pattern I use, in case anyone wonders, is both rear tires go directly forward to the front and the front tires go diagonally back to the rear. This reverses sides and direction of rotation to keep wear even very nicely. If there is a full size spare available, the five tire rotation is the same except the left front tire goes aft to the spare tire position and the spare moves to the right rear. If one has directional tires one is limited to moving the tires from front to back on the same side of the car and including the full size spare tire (if available) in the rotation cycle on one side of the car only.