I get an engine tick when cold. I've adjusted the valves several times (even cranked them down tight once just to be sure) and tick is still there. Doesn't appear to be getting worse over the years but it does get my attention every morning (especially bad during the winter even though I have a somewhat heated garage).
Anyone have an idea? Piston slap? Worn wrist pin? I'm not planning any exploratory surgery so I guess I'm just looking for some reassurance that my truck still has many more years of trouble-free service in her.
Yota's (especially the trucks) have this tick from day one. Both pickups that I've been through had it. I have always called it the toyota tick since every truck pre 96' has it. It's much more noticeable in the cooler mornings as the valves are dry. It always quiets down once the oil reaches them and warms up, but it's still noticeable at idle anytime.
I've never had it get worse and it's never appeared to cause a problem. My first truck made it to 250k under my care and according to car fax, is still out there with closer to 340k now. My current yota (94' pickup DX) has 180k, has the tick and runs like a bear with daily constant abuse.
I'd say that unless the truck starts running poorly, don't sweat it. Though there is nothing wrong with having it looked at if it bothers you.
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Trying to be different, just like everyone else
i was wondering the same thing i have been told that the tapping noise is normal but it always borthers me i guess becuase its louder with the carpet out (bare cab)
If you have high mileage (over 175,000) I'd get the timing chain looked at. When the adjuster wears out the chain hits the timing cover, right where a water passage is. Eventually it'll wear a hole through, allowing water in the oil. You'd be shocked at how much a new timing cover is too!
The first thing you must remember is that the family of 20r/22r/22re series motor were originally designed in the 1970's. These engines are not designed to be the quietest of engines. They NEVER will be.
You can adjust the the valve clearances .007 on the intake, and .011 on the exhast (warm engine).You can also replace the tips on the rocker shafts @ $4 each from the dealer. On a proper 22 series engine, the wear marks will appear as a smooth shiny hourglass on the adjuster tips. DO NOT TRUST ANY TIPS BUT THE FACTORY PIECE!
!!!! BOOKMARK THIS!!!! It shows how the design of this engine has a plastic ring ONLY on the #2 and #3 intake valves. THESE PLASTIC RINGS DIG INTO THE ALUMINUM ROCKERS, AND ALLOW THE ROCKER TIPS TO SLIDE FARTHER OFF-CENTER THAN THE FACTORY WANTED!!. A small amount of offset is found on the the other valves (probably to allow valve rotation...increasing lifespan), but I found on my own 22r that the plastic rings dug into the forged aluminum nearly 1/2 the width of the plastic ring!
The metal "fixit" spacers cost me $5 each at the dealer (California). You only need TWO, and they can be installed with the head on. You may only need a couple tips too.
P.S. This problem does not seem to be an issue with the 20r engine as they have steel rockers (not aluminum).
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1984 4x4 Xcab...and...Stock 1990 Camry Sedan. 3sfe. A/T. A/C. P/S.P/B. Work car...I install TOYOTA PARTS 90% of the time, even when it hurt$.
As a previous post above states, the timing chain can wear a hole into timing chain cover's waterjacket. You can check this by removing the valve cover, and inspecting with a flashlight to see if the chain guides are broken, especially the drivers side one where the radiator hose enters the block. I caught mine when I saw (what the f*ck is that?) a piece of broken plastic timing chain guide blocking the oil drain hole in the oil pan.
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1984 4x4 Xcab...and...Stock 1990 Camry Sedan. 3sfe. A/T. A/C. P/S.P/B. Work car...I install TOYOTA PARTS 90% of the time, even when it hurt$.
Negative on the injectors. You want to hear a ticking/hissing nosie. It is a sign that they are working properly and spraying out fuel. It is at a super fast rate though. At idle (750 rpm stock idle) with little to no mods it is really really easy to hear. It is a little difficult on my truck cause the headers, exhaust, and intake.
I had the same thing happen to me with the ticking noise. (22R).
The noise occurs when engine cold and went away after warm up.
The ticking noise was that of a Piston Pin. The noise will go away
when mid-point acceleration is in effect. That is the mid point of
what I call power applied on the piston without full pedal or no
pedal. A Mechanic will probably give a better definition.
If the ticking goes away at mid point, then more than likely it's
a Piston Pin problem. However other problems may exist.
Sure enough, after about four months of trying to figure out this
noise, a rapping noise was heard on June 23, 2004. This noise
again would diminish at mid point pedal, but I decided not to drive any further and returned home for inspection of
lower end.
Viola! When bearing cap removed from number one piston,
and piston pushed up by hand, side to side rocking of rod!
I very greatful I chose not to drive on that day. I saved a block, not to mention addition costs.
The small oil hole in rod (oil shoots up into bottom of piston and cylinder) may have been blocked, causing lack of oil to piston pin.
Hope this info helps others on this web page.
Yep, its a 22r! Is what my mechanic (25 year shop owner) said when I asked about my 22r 2bbl 1989 2wd pickemup tick. I asked about it after checking the valves and finding them within specs (Chilton). it was a good excuse to change the valve cover gasket and peer into the top end anyway.
I get an engine tick when cold. I've adjusted the valves several times (even cranked them down tight once just to be sure) and tick is still there. Doesn't appear to be getting worse over the years but it does get my attention every morning (especially bad during the winter even though I have a somewhat heated garage).
Anyone have an idea? Piston slap? Worn wrist pin? I'm not planning any exploratory surgery so I guess I'm just looking for some reassurance that my truck still has many more years of trouble-free service in her.
I adjusted my valves on my '87 22RE recently. When I checked the clearances before I adjusted them..they were really tight. Apparently they tighten up over time..from what i have read (the engine has 165K miles on it, and I have no idea when the valves were last adjusted...if at all). So I put them back to specs, started it up and got one good tick. You could definitly tell it was a valve.
I thought I screwed up, so I readjusted the valves again...but came back with the same results. I readjusted a few more times until I finally gave up. I read that this kind of tapping is normal for the engine, but I just didn't hear it before because the valves were too tight...
I did replace the valve adjustment screws (got them for about $2.50 each from 1sttoyotaparts.com...luckily that dealer is located close to me so no shipping charges ) After replacing all the screws, I still have the tap (doesn't seem as loud)....but I did notice the truck being a lot smoother upon acceleration. Here is a picture of my adjusting screws compared to a new one:
You can see the 'hourglass' shape. Notice one (red dot) is pitted..
I doubt its your timing chain...to me, it sounded like more of a rattle when it rubbed agains the timing chain cover. And it only happened when you had it at higher RPMs, not at idle. If you do take a look, and your drivers side guide is gone, it will look something like this:
You can see where it has been rubbing..both on the head and the timing chain cover.
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