Clutch bleeding! Need help - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

94toytruck · 05-23-2004, 08:13 AM

Hey, new to this site so i hope it works.

Heres the scoop. Yesterday morning I could just barely get my truck in gear to get to work. When i get out of work i basically have no clutch, completely loose (no pressure) and wont even try to go into gear. So i check the clutch resevoir, its almost empty, Yippee! I was told im going to have to bleed the system because of possibly air getting into the hoses. So can anyone give me precise step by step intructions on how to do this. I have a pretty good idea but since ive never done it before, I dont want to mess up.

Also, anyone with an idea on what might be the problem in the first place. Im assuming a leak somewhere, but have no idea where. Anyone know of any weakness? Also how long do you guys think it will take to bleed, I have to have it done within an hour because its out in my work parking lot. Not the best place to work on my pickup.

I have a 94 toyota pick up, 4x4, v6, ext cab. 5spd

If you need any other info, definitely let me know, Im going to be tearin into it at 2pm. Seattle time!

Rycam · 05-23-2004, 10:11 AM

"Mystery leaks" in Toyota truck clutches can often be found by grabbing a flashlight and looking at the interior firewall where the pushrod enters the cab. You may see a fluid leak running down and beneath the carpeted foot area.

Replace the clutch master (making sure the pushrod is not shorter than stock...are you listening Kragen/PG Parts? You can always transfer the old rod to the new cylinder.). If you think you have air in the lines at the clutch master, you can push them out by using a large screwdriver, and wedging it at the clutch SLAVE (manually pushing the slave pistion inward to chase the bubbes out). I find it a great help for ANY bleeding operation to tap-tap the device being bled with a hammer to loosen trapped bubbles...It really works.

By the way, for some reason, many people including myself have found that both the master AND slave fail around the same time.

Edit: I would probably as a first step, put some brake fluid in the clutch master, and then push the slave cylinder from beneath the truck with a big screwdriver to see if enough bubbles could be removed...then drive home. The leak is probably a slow one, so you may get just enough clutch action to get you rolling!! If someone could tap-tap the clutch master at the same time, that would be helpful. If this does not work, you haven't lost much (beware...brake fluid eats paint)!

94toytruck · 05-23-2004, 04:55 PM

So i take your advice and push the slave inward and there were about two bubbles that came out and thats it. so i try the clutch again and its still got nothing. not even a little better. so, i was going to bleed them, but i dont know where the valve is. i followed the tube all the way back and didnt see anything like a valve? any help on that

also i think i might have found the leak, at one of my connections its pretty damn messy there.. i mean it could be anything but im assuming its coming from that clutch metal hose.

damn, still stuck at work until i find that valve!!

Rycam · 05-23-2004, 08:47 PM

Sorry that I my advice didn't help.

IF my memory serves, the only bleeder valve nipple in the clutch system is on the clutch slave. You need to crack open the flared nut fitting on the master to bleed it.

I did a search for the how-to info, but could not find one for your truck.

A typical auto repair manual from a parts retailer may help.

94toytruck · 05-23-2004, 09:42 PM

Well, I went back out there cause i hate not being able to fix my own truck. Ive always done it. I found the valve, bled the thing correctly (found something online that told me how to do it ). The weird thing is, when you open it and press the clutch, air is suppose to come out, but just the fluid came out. Well after a few tries, the clutch started to tension up a bit. Good news, but before i drive it home im going to have someone follow me so i dont get stuck on the road. It dig go in gear but it still doesnt seem perfect. So I figure once i get it home, i can really work into there. But Ill definitely keep you informed on what happens for the ride home, and thanks for the help, anymore is still appreciated!

94toytruck · 05-24-2004, 04:03 PM

well it's definitely drivable, but it just depends on how long it will last. Considering i havent found the initial problem. Where i saw that grime at that one connection, I cleaned it up but havent found anything else yet. My friend told me that i should check the bell housing and see if there are any leaks there. Sound right to anyone? Im assuming the slave cylinder is working fine since it shifts, so im kind of ruling that out. Basically i think its down to a leak, somewhere!

Not in such a hurry now that i can drive it. But i do want to figure out what caused it in the first place. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks for the previous responses and help!

CU@DCrest · 05-27-2004, 01:22 AM

When brake fluid starts leaking from your clutch master cylinder means its worn out and you gonna need to replace it. Its very simple and easy as long as you got the right tools. I think its 10mm for the line(line wrench is preparable) 12 or 14mm for the master cylinder and a bottle of brake fluid.