22R carbuerator rebuilt will not start now - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

ponderoy · 06-03-2004, 11:52 AM

Can anyone helpl me please ! I just recently rebuilt my 1985 22R carburerator with no luck on getting the engine started. I can look through the glass eye sight and see that their is gas in the carbuerator. But when I check my plugs they are bone dry. The gas is not shooting through the upper jets to suck down into the cylinder and then ignite. I know my float level is correct because I can see the level in the sight glass is in the middle where it should be. Please help what do I need to check to get gas to come out the jets ?

Rycam · 06-03-2004, 08:22 PM

There is an "idle stop solenoid" on the passenger side of the carb. This solenoid needs to be "energized" to allow the plunger to retract, and allow gasoline to pass to the float bowl. Are all your electrical connections to the carb hooked up? The same connector that sends electricity to the intake manifold heater (located on the underside of the intake manifold) also sends a 12V signal to the solenoid. On my 1984 22r it is a large green male/female plug connecter just behind/below the A/C compressor

Regardless, a squirt of starting fluid should at least confirm that you have ignition spark. I you get no engine firing, then look back at the distributor timing/location if the distributor was removed at all during the process.

Keep us posted.

ponderoy · 06-03-2004, 09:01 PM

Thank you very much for your help. I did remove the distributer because I had replace the head gasket. When I got it all back to together I was able to start once. It ran for about 30 seconds then it died out. I had my daughter start engine while I was looking through the carburetor to see If I saw any gas shooting out. Unfortunately I did not see any gas coming out. I will recheck the timing and check the solinoid. Thank you very much,,,

Rycam · 06-03-2004, 09:23 PM

For the life of me, the last time I tried to get my truck to fire after the last headgasket change, I could not get the the that sucker timed. One position was too much, the next too little. The truck ran like crap...spitting horribly.

So... I took an old distributor cap, and cut/drilled a window at the the No. 1 spark plug wire terminal tower. Punching the old metal terminal out first can help.

I set the engine crank at 0 degrees. Then, I installed the distributor so the rotor lined up directly beneath the #1 disributor cap towerwhen looking through the hole cut into the cap.

It worked like charm!

ponderoy · 06-03-2004, 09:27 PM

Why did you line up directly beneath the #1 plug position on the cap. Why not directly on the #1 plug position ?

Rycam · 06-03-2004, 09:36 PM

Youch! I edited the the post above and saw your reply. As long as the crank is a 0 degrees, and the window you cut in the cap shows the rotor directly in-line with the #1 cap terminal....all is good and only a few degrees from specs.

I gotta go! Will check this thread friday aft noon!

ponderoy · 06-04-2004, 09:46 PM

Figure out the problem, I have little to no compression in the cylinders. Dammit got to tear it down again. Thanks for your help,,,,