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Old 06-22-2004, 04:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What year axles fit '84 toyota Trucks?

My front axle is making U-joint noise during R-turns, and my E-brake is completely frozen and the brakes suck on the rear. Will an '86 and/or later rear axle bolt up direct to the '84, because the salvage yard here has one. About the front axle how do you get those "cone inserts" out or off the studs?? Also, I heard that the military knuckles can't be rebuilt so what do I do if they are loose and scored because if they can't be rebuilt and everyone you get at the salvage yard will be just as old what are my options and what appoximatley do those options cost?

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Old 06-22-2004, 05:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: What year axles fit '84 toyota Trucks?

Quote:
Originally posted by Slamm
My front axle is making U-joint noise during R-turns, and my E-brake is completely frozen and the brakes suck on the rear. Will an '86 and/or later rear axle bolt up direct to the '84, because the salvage yard here has one.
Yes and no. The '86-'94 rear axles are 3" wider than the earlier ones. They do bolt right up though. It is a common swap for people that want a wider stance. Be sure to get the e-brake cable and hard brakeline with the new axle, your old ones won't fit. You can fix just the brake problems though. It involves pulling the drums and then the brake lever that goes through the backing plate. This is what freezes up all the time. Once you have it off you remove the pivot pin and drive the lever arm out with a hammer. Clean off the rust from the lever and inside the housing (a flat file works quite well) then coat everything with anti-sieze and reassemble.
Quote:
About the front axle how do you get those "cone inserts" out or off the studs??
There are a few options here:
  • Use a hammer and brass punch. Tap on the end of stud directly
  • Use just a hammer and tap on the side of the hub adjacent to the cone washers
  • Use a hammer and a prick punch (like a center punch, but longer and thinner). Drive the punch into the gap of the cone washer
The last option usually works best for me but if you do it too much, it can destroy the washers.
Quote:
Also, I heard that the military knuckles can't be rebuilt so what do I do if they are loose and scored because if they can't be rebuilt and everyone you get at the salvage yard will be just as old what are my options and what appoximatley do those options cost?

Slamm
You cannot really rebuild the knuckle joint but you can sand off any rust and crud and the replace the seals. These knuckles always seem to leak, even when new. It isn't really a problem unless you have gear oil leaking there too. That implies an inner axle seal has gone bad (also quite common). If the knuckles are loose, it just means the trunion bearings are going bad. These are easily replaced and come in quite a few knuckle seal kits (Marlin, All-Pro, etc.)
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Last edited by toy283; 06-22-2004 at 05:55 PM.
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