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Old 11-17-2004, 08:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA no spark on 94 22re

hey im new to this forum and find it to be pretty kick ass... i used to work on mazda trucks and a few s10's. anyways ...

i read somebody else has the same problem and found the timing chain broke but i dont think thats my problem... i checked the coil with the ohm meter and both pri and secondary were in spec but there is no spark... i tried testing the voltage on the coil feed (from the igniter 2 wires) and it was right at 12.6v i dont know if that would matter being it was dark and i was 30 miles from home and just trying stuff. i checked the fuses in the fuse panel under the dask there were 9 fuses that wsere all ok i did not see the other 2 that were listed on the label that said ign. i also checked the fuses under the box on the passenger fender and were ok.. i didnt check the relays because i wasnt sure where to start.
one thing i noticed when i put my hand on the distributor when it ran before it died i got knocked on my ass with spark... i figured the wires were screwed... but im thinking that may have cooked something or been what caused the thing to eventualy give ... i just bought this truck and didnt even get 2 miles from the guys house...he will refund me if need be but i know that truck it a good running truck and runs strong... i was driving from a dead stop and when i hit 3rd gear ( slightly getting on it) it died completely.

besides the coil how would i test the rest of the system with a meter to trace the problem.. ive heard i can test the pick up in the distributor with an ohm meter just need details since i dont have a book... speaking of book im sorry for writing one and i appreciate any help somebody can give me ...

thanxs
jay
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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might be the ignition igniter.thats usually what takes a dump,leaving you with no spark.i dont know how to test those, so im a horses ass.good place to start,though
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanx that was my next part to try where do i get one besides dealer.
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes its the igniter, had the same problem.......bought the igniter from a friend
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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id recommend a salvage yard.on the west coast,we have t.a.p.1-800-767-7100. im sure you can find somebody closer though.a used igniter should run ya about$50
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Old 11-18-2004, 06:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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found a whole ignition including the distributor on ebay i might get it for 30 bux....??? hope so. if anybody has a good ignitor ill buy it and i have pay pal.
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Old 11-18-2004, 03:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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junk yard has one its from a 92 toyota pickup will it be the same? they are busting heads at 75 bux.
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Old 11-18-2004, 09:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yah, those engines are of similar generation, and shoul work the exact same have yhe wrecker describe the connector to you,though it make sure that its a plug-in and you should be all good.the only time i ever fried an ignitor was(ironically)at the car wash, trying to clean off alot of mud
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanx greg did you read the other post i made ? i found that my distributor was toast..thanx alot for your input
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Old 12-04-2004, 10:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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subliminaltrips, I'm experiencing the same thing you did and am trying to diagnose. Did all the same tests you did as well and all checks out ok. my engine cranks over but with no spark. I noticed that the rotor wasn't turning, I have compression. Iam going back and forth on wether it is the timing chain or the distributer.WAs wondering if you could shed some light for me. Thanks in advance. mark
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Old 12-05-2004, 08:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes and auto tranny computer codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/t...tml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...E/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links...uble_codes.htm
http://www.ecutecparts.com/ccodes/toyota.html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-90.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Any public library in your area would have the Factory service manual,Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells and Toyota repair books.
There is also free AutoZone service manuals at:

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...pair_guide.jsp

For scanned pages of factory service manuals for other engines:

http://www.brian894x4.com/Scannedmanual.html
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE
http://toyoefi.freeyellow.com/manual.html
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...techniques.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/index.htm
http://www.asatraction4x4.cl/html/
http://www.grubinski.com/grubinski/manuals.html
http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/tech.html
http://www.autoshop101.com
http://www.mtv411.com/sitemap.htm

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Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 242 000 KM
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Old 12-05-2004, 10:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I ran the diagnostic check with the check engine light and the system gives me a normal reading. Mechanically shouldn't the rotor in the distributor turn while the engine is being cranked? My motor turns over, I seem to have compression. going to check it today with a gauge.Its an 89 toyota pickup 22re.I was just reading in the chiltons manual and I think I pulled the battery cable before I did the diagnostic test is there any way to retrieve the info? I assume it would be giving me a faulty reading now. Thanks Mark

Last edited by turmoline; 12-05-2004 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 12-05-2004, 11:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If the rotor is not turning, something is broke. I'd check that out and worry about diagnostic codes when that was fixed.
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Old 12-05-2004, 12:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yep something must be broke did the compression check 60lbs #1, 0 #2, 0#3, and 0 #4. If the timing chain was off would you get any compression at all ie. the #1 cylinder has 60lbs. Thanks again Mark
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Old 12-05-2004, 01:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The chain could be broken with the valves closed on one cylinder. 60# sound low, though. The valves are probably not completely closed.
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