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Fix was easier than I thought
Since I was being run in circles, I went to techinfo.toyota.com for help. I spent $10 to access the site for one day and printed out every section and sub-section of the t100 repair manual I thought I could use. While I didn't find anything of real help regarding the ignition lock, I did find the exploded view of the dash/instrument panel. Following the diagram, I tore down the lower portion of the dash, below the instrument cluster (pretty easy, just take it slow. Lots of plastic fittings, easy to break). Once I had the lower dash removed, I could see the entire ignition lock and switch.
Now, everybody told me "you're gonna have to drill the lock to get it out"; I mean EVERYBODY said that. Having never drilled an ignition switch, I went to my local hardware store and talked to the owner (who is also a locksmith) about the process. He had an interesting observation: I could turn the key far enough to unlock the steering column, but not far enough to get to "ACC". He said "The problem doesn't sound like the tumblers in the lock, it sounds like a problem with the ignition SWITCH. He took a close look at the ignition key and noted that the key was worn down in several areas (no big surprise). His suggestion was to cut a new key ($2.15). His thinking was that excessive wear on the original key was causing a portion of the mechanism between the lock and the switch to fail (not operate properly) OR the SWITCH itself was bad. I took his advice (for $2.15, why not??). He cut a new key and, on the third try, the key rotated to the "ACC" position on the lock.
Now, the release pin the dealer described to me is located to the bottom right hand side of the cast switch housing (you'll have to look closely; the pin is recessed). The point is that, once the key was in the "ACC" position, depress
the release pin and the lock slides right out. Now, I was so friggin' happy as to the ease of the fix, I took the old lock back to the hardware store owner. He compared the old switch to the new one and noted that there is a small elongated pin just behind the face of the lock that moves up and down as the key is rotated. While the elongated pin on the old lock did move, the pin on the new lock moved upward considerably more than the old one. In addition the old lock had a bunch of play in it, another contributing factor.
As I prepared to install the new ignition lock, I noted that there is a small molded plastic switch INSIDE the cast switch housing, right at the mouth of the housing. When the lock is in place, and the key is turned, that elongated pin in the lock makes contact with the switch inside the switch housing. Now, I have no idea what that plastic switch does, but obviously it trips something in the switch that allows the key to rotate to "ACC".
So, Reb - If your ignition lock is hinky, try a new key. (Some lock lubricant is probably worth a try, too). Big thing is, if the lock just stops working, it may be excessive wear in the lock mechanism; you'll still need to replace the lock, BUT you may not have to drill the damn thing out. The other thing is that, even if you do replace the lock, it may not solve the overall problem. The ignition lock may be just fine; the problem could reside in the switch.
Incidentally, the replacement ignition lock was $80; keep in mind that you'll still need the OLD key to unlock the doors.
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Thanks
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