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Old 11-21-2004, 05:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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clatter in 22RE

Here is the on-going saga of my 22RE's clatter. For those of you who have not been privy to this soap opera, I had a timing chain cover wear thru on me, mixing oil and antifreeze in my oil pan. No sooner had I fixed this that I spun my #3 connecting rod bearing. I pulled my engine, cleaned up the damage and installed new connecting rod bearings, masin bearings, gaskets and seals. As the compression has always been good, I did not disturb my pistons and did not do rings. The head has been done 40,000 kms ago (about 25,000 miles). This is in my '88 4Runner, std trans, with 195,000 kms on the engine.

I currently have a clatter somewhere near #2 or #3 cylinder, sounds like to the passenger side of the block. The valves are reset at spec while the engine was hot. Oil pressure is at specs. I have rechecked the compression (still bang on the specs), drained the oil and filtered the oil to find shavings (a half dozen small particles, about what you would normally clean off your drain plug-so it is not a spun new bearing), refilled the oil with 10W30 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. Upon warming up, the engine once again has the same rattle, which is upon slight decelleration when revving over about 2200RPM. If the rattle was in an oiled section of the engine I would asssume that the Lucas would change or muffle the noise. Same thing if it was piston slap or a noisy wrist pin.

My question is does anyone have any idea what this noise could be? Could it be a bad injector? Ideas?

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Last edited by D'mon; 11-21-2004 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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For $18, you can get these FACTORY PARTS (two spacers, and two adjuster tips) from your Toyota Dealer. These can can installed on an assembled engine...I hope this helps! They did help quiet my engine.

http://www.wheelingadventures.com/Tech/Fixs.htm

That is $18 USD.
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Last edited by Rycam; 11-21-2004 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good idea and I did go an pull the valve cover to check. Unfortunately it was not the problem. My adjusters are unworn and the spacers are oversized aftermarket with no undercutting. The spacing is bang on. Anyone have any other ideas?

That is such a bummer. I was already planning on how to get to my dealer tomorrow to order teh fix....

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Old 11-21-2004, 10:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just me... but if i would have tore the engine dow n far enuff to change the bearings and such i would have changed rings as well and instpected the whole thing before reinstalled it. my 94 rattles a lil bit. but i think its jsut spark knock from the cheap ass gas. usally i run a bottle of fuel injecter cleaner or octane booster and its stops for a month or soooo. guess a bottle of rubbing achocol would do the same thing . getting water outta the fuel
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Old 11-21-2004, 10:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yep, in hindsight I should have dones the rings....but that would have cost me another $100 what with the rings and the head gasket. However, the compression is fine and the wrist pins were tight. I've noticed that the #3 spark plug seems a bit wet and sooty...maybe the injector is at fault! I've verified that #3 has a solid spark (swapped out plug and wire).

Opinions?

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Old 11-22-2004, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The valves should be checked and adjusted when cold not hot.
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Old 11-22-2004, 04:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Mehullica actually rite right but u are also wrong. on 1995 and back models u check valves at normal operating temp. on 96 and newer u check cold going to the refrence of the Haynes work Manual thats the 4cyl. 22r and 22re engines
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