I have a 86 4runner 22re that just started to knock. I was in some deep mud in 4 LOW going back and forth trying to get out. Beating on it a little but not over revving the motor. After i finally got out it still sounded alright. I started it a couple days later and about a 2 hour wash and the motor makes a knocking noise from 2300rpms to 3900 rpms. It doesn't knock at idle and then goes away at about 3900rpms. The oil pressure is fine. Got the timming chain done about 2 days prior to mudding. If it was the rod bearing wouldn't the noise be constant with knock at idle also. sounds more it the top/mid engine. motor has 138k. any suggestions.
I have a 86 4runner 22re that just started to knock. I was in some deep mud in 4 LOW going back and forth trying to get out. Beating on it a little but not over revving the motor. After i finally got out it still sounded alright. I started it a couple days later and about a 2 hour wash and the motor makes a knocking noise from 2300rpms to 3900 rpms. It doesn't knock at idle and then goes away at about 3900rpms. The oil pressure is fine. Got the timming chain done about 2 days prior to mudding. If it was the rod bearing wouldn't the noise be constant with knock at idle also. sounds more it the top/mid engine. motor has 138k. any suggestions.
could be a rod but maby something you did during wash messed up the timing , timing can cause an engine to knock just take a 12mm wrench and adjust on it a bit , move the distributor one way a few degrees and try the throttle and then if it doesnt help that way try the other , if not id say you might have somthing mechanical like a rod bearing or maby not as bad like a flywheel or something ? i dunno but a rod bearing doesnt always knock if its not completley spun but it will definatly scar a crank. does the vehicle crank over easily or run rough? im not the expert with the toyota's but alot of times engines will knock due to sensors and other things but for it to just start knocking like that after a littkle bit of romping sounds like alot of stress and it may very well be a rod bearing , but with rocking back and forth it could be the tranny or flywhee..
Doesn't make noise when your puting the pedal down, and doesn't make noise when you're completly off it.
Only when your just staying steady or close to coasting?
It does sound like it is more in the top end but not a lifter so a rocker sounds like a good idea. How can i check the rocker to see if that is the problem??
Doesn't make noise when your puting the pedal down, and doesn't make noise when you're completly off it.
Only when your just staying steady or close to coasting?
To check for a problem in a certain cylinder i just pull the plug wires one at a time right. It makes the noise the loudest when it is at a steady rpm. 2000rpm to 3800rpm.
How can i check the rocker to see if that is the problem??
scrowley111 You will have to pull the valve cover off and use a feeler guage and ck the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker, This is a wee bit of a time consumer but worth it. If the valve clearances are within limits. you are probably looking at a wrist pin or some piston slap only fix for that is to find the faulty component and change it. IE wrist pin change the piston+pin+rod or if you have piston slap you are looking at changing a piston and possably a bore job if it scored the cyl wall.. Lots of senario's here bro and alot of the fixes depend on the amount of damage that is there...My 22re has a long list of ticks and knocks but im not messing with it till its time to rebuild..
The way I check a rocker is pull the valve cover and put something over the timing sprocket to keep the oil from getting everywhere, and start the engine. Take hammer wood or rubber handle, hold it by the head and put the end of handle on each adjustment screw and push with a little pressure. Good rockers will be smooth. One with a flat spot you will have no trouble feeling it. Hope this help, and good luck.
scrowley111 You will have to pull the valve cover off and use a feeler guage and ck the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker, This is a wee bit of a time consumer but worth it. If the valve clearances are within limits. you are probably looking at a wrist pin or some piston slap only fix for that is to find the faulty component and change it. IE wrist pin change the piston+pin+rod or if you have piston slap you are looking at changing a piston and possably a bore job if it scored the cyl wall.. Lots of senario's here bro and alot of the fixes depend on the amount of damage that is there...My 22re has a long list of ticks and knocks but im not messing with it till its time to rebuild..
Will the motor last for a while with the knocking?? It seems to run with full power. Another thing is when i'm going up a hill (load) the knocking isn't really there at all.
A rod bearing makes more noise at the oil pan than elsewhere, and a wrist pin more racket up on the water jacket. Hold RPMs at 2500, jerk the throttle open and let it snap closed. This will accentuate rod knock, whereas pin noise won't change very much.
Now's the time to starting shorting out cylinders. A bad pin will quiet down, but a rod knock will double its cadence.
Finally, you can pull the pan for a visual inspection. If the bearings are good, you know you've got a pin problem.
This same thing is happening with my 22re but I did not notice the knock until 5000 miles after the timing chain/gear were replaced. I've driven it another 5000 with this noise. Why would the rod bearings go bad?
I can't exactly determine where mine makes the most noise but oil pan area seems to be where its loudest.
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This same thing is happening with my 22re but I did not notice the knock until 5000 miles after the timing chain/gear were replaced. I've driven it another 5000 with this noise. Why would the rod bearings go bad?
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