Two or three knocks when I start warm engine. No knocks when cold start. Anybody notice this with their 22re? It's been doing this for a couple years at least.
Could be a lot of things but, if you have a few miles on the odometer, it might be a rod. Nothing to get all lathered about, just take it easy for a few seconds until the oil pressure builds up and purges the air out and takes up the slack.
If, and I stress if, it is a rod knocking, it is due to wear and because at normal operating temp there is a bit more clearance between the bearing surface and the crank journal. Eventually the knocking will be more persistant (oil pressure will decline as well) and then you will have to have the crank machined and new bearings installed. If you ignore it, the rod bearing could seize, break the rod and ventilate your block.
I appreciate your thoughts on this. I think you are probably right about the rod. I just wasn't sure about the differences from hot to cold. I have had the oil analysed and it showed elevated lead and silicon. I'm not going to get excited and overhaul the bottom end yet but will monitor for progression. My odometer is currenty at 99K miles. The engine has had religious 3-4K mile oil and filter changes. Do you think a 40 weight oil would be better in this situation?
I am trying to find a knock in my engine also, except that I'm certain it's in the valvetrain. After repeated valve adjustments, it's still there. There's supposed to be an update that installs a spacer in the valvetrain, I will link to it when i find it. It may help you......
Re. 40 wt., I think you should keep using the same oil that you have been. 10w-40 may help some but, staight SAE 40 may actually accelerate wear because it won't flow as quickly on initial start up. Your best protection is maintaining a good flow of oil no matter what else.
To Bill C. Thanks for the link! Great information, I appreciate that.
Re. 40 wt., I think you should keep using the same oil that you have been. 10w-40 may help some but, staight SAE 40 may actually accelerate wear because it won't flow as quickly on initial start up. Your best protection is maintaining a good flow of oil no matter what else.
To Bill C. Thanks for the link! Great information, I appreciate that.
ever think of timing knock (predetonation) or maby at 100 k miles the timing chain is stretched causing the same thing? just a hunch because im about to replace my timing chain and i know it has slop in it and it does the same thing kind of inconsistantly. at 100 k miles if a rod bearing was worn to that point id say you must have a lemon or a truck that was not maintained.. sounds too new for that i mean shucks its barely broken in. the timing chain will also act differently in different temps like all metal. maby bad gas? one thing i tried tht helped was bump my timing back a coochie hair on the distributor. the tps could need adjusting due to the electric advance. id almost bet on predetonation on a rod but hey if its been over revved alot i would not doubt that a bearing is about to spin or something like that. try the timing.
I was actually thinking about using Rotella's 5W-40. Good cold flow and a little more viscosity for the 'possibly' loose parts. I was also wondering if it was the timing chain slapping the guide before oil pressure. Guide isn't broken yet, at least from what I can see through the slot. I'm not hitting the cover yet or it would show as high Al on the oil analysis. I just ordered a timing chain kit and will dive into it at next opportunity. I appreciate everyone's input.
Thinking about installing a oil pressure guage. Anybody know where to tap into the system?
Diesel engine motor oil. like Rotella, is a very high quality product. If, however, you are using Pennzoil for example, why not just change grades? At this point, I see no advantage in changing to any brand of 5w-40. Re. the oil pressure guage, my old 22R has a sender on the pass. side of the block.
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