No spark from coil PLEASE HELP

[RustBucket]

Hey guys, I'm a long time fan of toyota trucks and I own a 1987 hilux 4x4. I have been keeping mine alive for 4 years now despite its horrible shape.

Well my truck died on me last night coming home from work, still had power, but no spark. I checked all my fuses but found none blown. So my assumption is the coil pack but how do I test it before I try to locate a new one? It has the 22R. Please help, I need to get my truck home before it gets towed

THANKS

Aaron


Here is a picture of my truck:

[burned300]

Toyota's igniters are known to die.

[87_SR5]

If you get an ohm meter, you can test it. Look in your manual for the proper procedure. You test the resistance between the certain terminals and they should be within certain specs that your manual will give you.

[subliminaltrips]

Originally Posted by 87_SR5

If you get an ohm meter, you can test it. Look in your manual for the proper procedure. You test the resistance between the certain terminals and they should be within certain specs that your manual will give you.

could be the distributor coil pickup under the cap. thats what happened to mine..,. there was a copper brillo pad under my cap (ake the pick up that came apart.) get an ohm meter its you best friend in this case. check to see if there is voltage feedg the coil first with ignition on, then test coil for ohms , and then ignitor if of course you checked the distributor first. look on auto zones site the have all the specs youll need

[RustBucket]

UPDATE:
Went back to my truck yesterday morning and it started!!!! So I drove it home. But it still wont stay running, as soon as it gets hot the engine shuts off. OK so now for the stupid questions:

Thanks for the help guys but I'm just a little confused. The ignitor is the thing that looks like a coil pack (but its not) on the fender well and there is a pickup coil in the distributor and and is conectted to the ignitor by two wires.

The ignitor is getting power with the key on but no spark.

Sorry for all these tedious questions but I'm still looking for an owners manual (the new manuals are useless). Meanwhile I'll look on autozone's site for the specs I need.

Thanks
Aaron

[Greasygreg]

Aaron the ignitor usually works, or not..meaning when it dies, its dead forever.Sinse your truck does run,I would venture to say that is not your problem(ive replace three on my own trucks)..Im suspecting coil,but..it would also run bad at all times if that was the case.

[subliminaltrips]

Originally Posted by Greasygreg

Aaron the ignitor usually works, or not..meaning when it dies, its dead forever.Sinse your truck does run,I would venture to say that is not your problem(ive replace three on my own trucks)..Im suspecting coil,but..it would also run bad at all times if that was the case.

may be the ground to the ignitor as well. clean off the contacts and the screw that holds the ignitor in the metal housing bracket, that screw is the only way the ignitor gets negative signal from the battery. being your in michigan id bet is a corrosion issue since its above the fender well and all. i could be wrong it could be a wire corroded also good luck.

[reb]

Electronic circuits and coils can fail where they work cold, but not hot. I would suspect the coil first. An ohmmeter check of the coil when it is failing should help isolate the problem.

[buckspooker]

Hey Bucket,
I had the same exact problem with the engine shutting off when it got to temperature. Brought it to the dealer and they told me it was the distributor. I was skeptical but after doing some research I found out that one of the symptoms of a bad distributor is exactly what your truck is doing. The dealer wanted over 500.00 for a new one installed . I went to Napa and got a rebuild for around 160. I was going to get a new igniter and just put it on before going to the dealer but it was around 250.00 and i thought I had better get a real diagnosis before I just start throwing money at it. My truck is a 92 with a 22re. Hope this helps.

[Jeromy Hess]

I just finished checking and replacing my coil. It will give you different readings hot and cold. Test it cold. Resistance will increase dramatically when hot. Also beware that the specs for the coil resistance in one of the manuals (haynes or chiltons, I forget which one... I use both) is wrong. It says something like 12 to 16 ohms. I think it should read kilo (x1000) ohms. So make sure and use the right scale when testing. Anyhow, just buy a new one if in doubt. If your not picky it is only about 20 bucks. And be careful not to touch to positive terminal to ground or you will kiss another one goodbye.

[Paladin06]

I have the Random or multiple cylinder misfire code on my Solara. I've checked the igniter and it appears to be OK. Please advise how you checked your coils. I have the coil over plug type, do you?

Thx!

Originally Posted by Jeromy Hess

I just finished checking and replacing my coil. It will give you different readings hot and cold. Test it cold. Resistance will increase dramatically when hot. Also beware that the specs for the coil resistance in one of the manuals (haynes or chiltons, I forget which one... I use both) is wrong. It says something like 12 to 16 ohms. I think it should read kilo (x1000) ohms. So make sure and use the right scale when testing. Anyhow, just buy a new one if in doubt. If your not picky it is only about 20 bucks. And be careful not to touch to positive terminal to ground or you will kiss another one goodbye.