Oil pan via hubs? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

peterng · 01-05-2005, 10:06 PM

Long story short

I recently found I have no t chain guides. engine stripped with water pump and t chain cover left. Oil pan next. Is there no simpler way to drop the diff without starting at the hubs? if not, I gather Ill need a tapered punch as the slotted washers holding hub body on seem to be well seated. and haynes calls for snap o ring inside hub body cover, but I see none, is this normal?

88Lil'Red22R-E · 01-06-2005, 09:08 PM

whoa dude slow down. First off welcome aboard to Toyota nation. This is my first day as well. I think we can help you out more if can give us some more information about your vehicle.

D'mon · 01-06-2005, 10:55 PM

You do not need to drop the diff to do the oil pan and timing chain. Pull the rad, it will give you room and you will have to for doing the timing chain. Undo your motor mounts, jack up on the oil pan until the bell housing is up against the firewall. Shove wood shims in to the motor mounts and drop the jack. Pull your steering stabilizer. Undo the oil pan, let it drop as much as it will. Undo the 4 12mm bolts holding the oil pickup onto the block, let it drop into the oil pan. The pan will come out thru the front. Everything is easy from there.

However if you still want to pull your hubs, tap on the side of the hub housing where the taper washers are. Keep the nut on a couple of threads unless you like to chase them across garage.

Hope this clarifies it for you. PM me if you have any questions- I just went thru it on my '88 4Runner. I ended up having to pull and rebuild the engine, so I'm familiar with the whole ball of wax. BTW: if you have antifreeze in your oil already, redo your crankshaft bearings, they break down from the antifreeze.

D'mon

peterng · 01-07-2005, 10:58 PM

alrighty, thought I read about a 4 line limit in the rules, thus the initial ramble on

first off, what a relief about the oil pan through the front deal. I wasn't overly thrilled about the hub scenario.

Lil Red, I'm Lil black 89 pickup xcab 22re. 244000mi stock except for NWOR heavy duty rear springs.

Thanks for the welcome. I got wondering, looked online for help and ended up here.

rad is out, everything except water pump and chain cover, and crank pulley. all straightforward til the haynes recommended hub deal. clutch to be replaced as well.

got my chain guide replacement instructions here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

guides disintegrated, (driving a Nissan in the interm

) but didn't chew all the way through wall. I'm sure most may laugh but I'm going to JB weld the grooves that the chain cut into the inside of the chain cover or inside water jacket or wherever that is. I wondered if I needed to have them filled with weld or put anything on, but I guess that depends on how deep the grooves are which is hard to tell at this point. Whadya think of my show? amateur indeed but having a tonne of fun with it.

I also have a 92 pickup with the 22re, oil all over the front of the block. yet to compression test to see if its the head gasket or the crank seal. Runs smooth beyond that leak. But that's my parts truck and backup engine, 143000mi with t chain guide job already done on it.

D'mon, made my day night man. Good info the get on a Friday night with the weekend ahead. I think you nailed what I wanted to see at this point. I'll keep this post in mind in case I do have any other problems.
Cheers boys,
made my wkd
Pete

peterng · 01-11-2005, 04:58 PM

I got past my oil pan dilemna and removed the remnants of the chain guides from the bottom of said pan.

OK, so long after I took the distributor off I read the most excellent suggestions about leaving the distributor on long enough to use the starter and a breaker bar to help remove the crank pulley nut.

So I've been hitting it with PB Blaster for a week or so and I've got this bright and theoretical idea to wrap a 1/2" leather strap around the pulley a few times and use the cumalongs from above to put enough tension on that sucker to break the nut, and hopefully not enough to break the crank bearing

I'm SURE someone else has a better bright idea that maybe isn't theoretical.

Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Pete

reb · 01-11-2005, 05:42 PM

I would try the starter/breaker bar thing without the distributor. See if the starter has enough torque.

D'mon · 01-11-2005, 09:09 PM

No impact? Ouch, that's tough...

What about jamming a big screwdriver thru your cam gear to lock the engine, then hitting your breaker bar on the end with a heavy hammer? If any damage would be done, it would be to the cam gear, which is getting tossed with the timing chain. I don't know for sure, I used my 1/2" impact.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
D'mon

peterng · 01-12-2005, 07:22 PM

hmmmm .. that's a tempting dilemna, the battery to starter idea is pretty straightforward, do I have to put the distributor back in place of will the timing be back in place once I zero the crank and shiny chain link on top deal if it goes out of place once I hit the starter and break the crank bolt.

I think I will try the screwdriver or reasonable facsimile in the cam gear first and if I can't get enough on it I'll goto the starter idea.

Thanks, beat the hell out of my leather strap/ cumalong to hte roof idea

Pete

jahson · 01-16-2005, 01:58 PM

i FINALLY GOT MY BOLT LOOSENED WITH A 1/2 BREAKER BAR AND a 4 foot steel pipe (lowes hardware) and a 4 lb sledge. couldn't lock the motor either but finally broke that thing.

D'mon · 01-16-2005, 02:06 PM

WAY TO GO!!!!

It's all downhill from there. Have fun, the rest is kinda fun. Let us all know when you have your baby up and running again.

D'mon

peterng · 01-16-2005, 08:15 PM

D'mon,

All has gone well, I think, chain is out, didnt tear the hell out of anything too badly. I tried the pin in the cam sprocket, and on one crank of the wrench I heard a noise that could have been a chain jumping teeth down bottom. So I aborted that method, put the truck in 5th gear, 4wd engaged and broke it relatively easily with a 1/2" drive and a 2' 1/2" pipe. I had been hitting it for a week with PB Blaster and I think that helped a lot.

Anyways, my question is this, the crank has that tooth that accomodates the crank t chain gear, as long as that is pointing straight up, and the tooth on the cam t chain gear is pointing straight up and bright links and dots line up the timing is where it needs to be isn't it?

crank pulley was at zero and #1 piston was on top (at the correct stroke). if the chain had of jumped a tooth or two, the single tooth on the crank would not be pointing exactly straight up would it?

The sound could have been the cam gear breaking (which it did, small hairline cracks, stayed in place and relatively intact with little pressure applied to it)

Also, what brand of tchain kit did you buy? I'm considering one from enginbldr.com,

Smoke · 01-17-2005, 08:31 AM

Enginbldr.com has a good reputation for parts, service and techanial support. You couldn't make a better choice. Consider his high volume oil pumps if you decide to ever change yours!!

D'mon · 01-17-2005, 10:30 AM

Enginbldr definitely! Get his timing chain kit with the steel guides. It is worth the extra few bucks....

And if anyone ever needs a head gasket, get his! It is the most amazingly well built head gasket ever! I've compared it to the OEM and Profelt, his is head and shoulders above either of them.

Right now I'm saving for his 261 Crawler camshaft and a header. From everything I've heard from many sources, it's a kicking combination!

D'mon