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Old 01-11-2005, 09:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear seal keeps going out

So I picked up this 90 4wd V6 pickup in great shape. Except, it needed a rear seal, no biggie, right?

But I've replaced it twice (and while in there, found evidence that it had been replaced before I bought it).

Both times I have changed it out, it has immediately, as in within 30 seconds of starting, leaked again. And yes, I have resleeved the crankshaft.

What is going wrong!!!>?>??

I'm really tired of pulling the transmission out.
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Racer I don't have no answers but still having the same problems with my 94 4WD 3.0 V-6 Automatic. Is yours standard or auto??
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Been checking around and the most logical solution that I've came up with is to check or change PVC valve to make sure it's working!!
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This info is for the crankshaft used on the 20R & 22R series of Toyota engines:

The front crankshaft oil seal usually lasts 140-170 000 miles and the info is below:

Harmonic balancer repair sleeve/speedy sleeve (seal saver sleeve,balancer repair sleeve,crank seal saver) slides over shaft:

Felpro # 16214=$5
Future # 21-2514 (aluminum shaft sleeve included)
NAPA repair sleeve # 99177 (Mack PDC,National,Car Quest)
Pioneer repair sleeve (Silver Seal) # HB-4133

attached with some epoxy or use Loctite 609 or 242 or put some red RTV and fill that groove before you put it on also look in the yellow pages under “bearing suppliers”.
For a picture:

http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/auto/speedi/speedi.htm

Front crank oil seal (front input shaft seal):

Fed Mogul (National,Timken Seals) # 710345
Toyota # 90311-45014 (brown, 7 mm thick) & 90311-30115, Chicago Rawhide # CR17758 (9 mm thick) or CR550294 (7mm thick)
Beck Arnley # 0522144

NAPA repair sleeve # 99317(rear),list price $68.10>$33.19 net Canadian $
and the seal was $12.10

Rear crank seal Toyota # 90311-80010,90311-80001 (the earlier 20R & 22R seal),90311-80010 (is the improved version. It is made out of silicone and has double lip for better sealing).

This info provided by EB:there are 3 versions of the speedy sleeve:

1)one is light steel with spray chrome flashing(yuk)
2)one is steel with chrome plating
3)and the good ones are all stainless steel and they are made in Canada.

http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/frntseal.htm

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Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
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Canada

1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 243 000 KM
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Old 01-13-2005, 09:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Sidney but we need something for the 3.0!!
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Old 01-14-2005, 09:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, Smoke, mine is a standard.

I had actually considered the PCV valve as overpressurizing the engine, but I had dismissed that as probably fantasy. I have a PCV valve laying around that I picked up to do my initial tune-up, but I wasn't going to actually do the tuneup until I was certain that the motor was going to work out! Maybe I'll throw it on. It's unlikely to be the culprit, but what the heck...

I did the cheapo speedy sleeve, but I was unaware that I should lock-tite it down. It had not migrated, and wasn't the source of my leak, but maybe I'll need to get back in there AGAIN and fix it in place. dang.
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Old 01-14-2005, 01:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Make sure that you do have vacuum at the valve, if not clean port and hose!! You might want to pull the vent hose off and see if you have any blow back!!
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